Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. edmorel

    edmorel Quality Seller!! Dubiously Honored

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    I like both and obviously I am partial to NSM. For my tastes, the achilles heel of British tailors is their patch pockets, I don't like the square shape and they like to put them too low on the jacket. Their chest pockets are also a bit too "band aid" for me but as David says, horses for courses and he obviously enjoys having different styles of clothing.
     


  2. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    ^ Funny you say that as the Steed patch pockets actually have much more curve and shape than the NSM ones. I was actually expecting Mina's to be more shapely. They're nice, but some I've seen are very curvy. When you said Band Aid type breast pocket do you just mean a straight line? If so I agree that I don't like that look at all. This Steed (and all my Chan and Peter Lee) has a nice subtle arc to it. Some of mine have this more than others, but I always need some shape to it.
     
    Last edited: Oct 14, 2011


  3. scruff

    scruff Senior member

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    For what it's worth (and because I've been thinking about patch pockets too much today), here are two of my Ercole's commissions from this summer. I think the shapes are about perfect, but have asked Frank to place the pockets a bit lower (and maybe a tad longer) for the next commission, which will be a heavier piece.


    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Oct 17, 2011


  4. T4phage

    T4phage Senior member

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    i hope y'all
    don't egg each other on
    too much
    and end up with fugly
    stupid
    patches like
    sciamat
     


  5. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    Isn't that the inevitable goal? :^) Good to see you around these parts.
     


  6. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    Slew, I like them both and I see what you mean about the patch pockets. I would open the quarters a bit on both and raise the button point a little on the Steed.
     


  7. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    Thanks! I think the buttoning point is right in that half inch area of where it needs to be, just on the slightly lower side of that 1/2 inch. I agree on the quarters. I mentioned to both at the basted about having them opened up a bit, but I more just let them do their stuff.
     


  8. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    It's a 3 roll 2.5. I think part of the effect from the photo is the fact that the fabric is a linen blend making any wrinkle much more accentuated.
     


  9. emptym

    emptym Moderator Moderator

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    Looks good, D. Thanks for posting them.
     


  10. kolecho

    kolecho Senior member

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    I like your Steed much better than Mina. As Manton said, move the bp a hair higher, open up the quarters a bit. Maybe clean up the back a little. Silhouette is very nice overall. Well done.
     


  11. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    Thanks! Yeah, Edwin and Matthew did a pretty stellar job for a first effort. Look forward to getting something else special down the line when money and time prevail!
     


  12. hst

    hst Senior member

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    Hi David, love the colour of the Steed, and the subtle red overchecks.
     


  13. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    I also think the Steed looks better than the NSM but I wonder how much of it has to do with choice of material vs the cut. The NSM material looks too washed out and flimsy for my taste.
     


  14. UrbanComposition

    UrbanComposition Senior member

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    The Steed looks absolutely amazing, but I'm with poorsod - I wonder how much has to do with the material.

    I do rather enjoy Steed's drape, which seems to be noticeably absent from your NSM.
     


  15. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    I agree that I think a big part of what your seeing in the photos is the difference of material. The Mina jacket is incredibly lightweight all around which is exactly what I was going for with that. Perfect for Summer as it wears like a breeze. It hangs very nicely for a jacket made with that criteria. The combination of Steed and London Lounge fabric makes that hang like steel.
     


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