Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[jonathanS]

Does anyone have thoughts on when a bellied vs straight lapel is appropriate?


Bellied Lapel

Straight Lapel

I kind of like the concaved lapels which start off small and then extend to a nice 4" lapel like the neapolitans do.

I think all lapels are a little bit bellied, even the ones that lie straight bc the shape of an individual's chest makes the lapel appear flat even when it's slightly bellied - it helps it sit in nicely in the chest.

 

[Andy57]

I think the straightness of the lapel has nothing to do with formality and it's a question of style.

I don't like bellied lapels at all, so for me tailors who normally do them are a big no, but only because I don't like the style. Some tailors are flexible with this, but I'd rather go with tailors who normally do straight lapels, both on SB and DB.

I agree with this, except I'm the opposite. I like bellied lapels and I'm not so keen on straight lapels. I think it's entirely a matter of personal preference.

 

[Concordia]

It may also depend on your tailor's eye, as well as your build, etc.

A lot of A&S bellied DB look great. Some others from parts of Italy look like something that should have been dropped after the 1940s. Same with straight lapels. Some look fine, others are just ill-proportioned.

 

[lordsuperb]

I kind of like the concaved lapels which start off small and then extend to a nice 4" lapel like the neapolitans do.

I think all lapels are a little bit bellied, even the ones that lie straight bc the shape of an individual's chest makes the lapel appear flat even when it's slightly bellied - it helps it sit in nicely in the chest.

I agree with this, except I'm the opposite. I like bellied lapels and I'm not so keen on straight lapels. I think it's entirely a matter of personal preference.

Should the cloth (texture and pattern) also play a roll in deciding between bellied or straightened lapels?

Also, 4in lapels suck.

 

[jcmeyer]

Should the cloth (texture and pattern) also play a roll in deciding between bellied or straightened lapels?

My limited experience with bellied lapels has been with Steed, and my experience with Steed has been limited to F/W fabrics because I like their house style for heavier cloth. So because of this purely anecdotal experience, my take is that bellied works better in the F/W realm than with a lighter S/S jacket where I personally like the more neapolitan cut with straighter/concave lapels.

But to Andy's point it probably comes down more to personal preference.

 

[Andy57]

Should the cloth (texture and pattern) also play a roll in deciding between bellied or straightened lapels?
.

Are you looking for a "rule" where none exists?

So I think the answer to your question I quoted is "yes", but how much of a role is up to you. For me, I just like a slight curve to my lapels, so that's what I ask for, regardless of cloth or weight. Your preference might be for something else entirely, and that's fine.

 

[The Chai]

Dormeuil herringbone mohair...boy I’m excited!

 

[lordsuperb]

I need fabric recommendations that feel cool against the skin for a tuxedo shirt.

 

[The Chai]

I need fabric recommendations that feel cool against the skin for a tuxedo shirt.

White fresco maldoplam chambray. Luxire has some. I know its unorthodox and supposed to be slightly on the casual side but it’s my personal preference when you’re dancing for the whole night and need to combat the heat. You could always get a stiff front bib and a plus side it’s hard to crease

 

[Concordia]

Linen, especially if under a DB. I'm just getting one with pleats.

 

[ATWright]

Speaking of shirt cloth, does anyone have experience with caccioppoli shirtings? I've not seen them at either of my shirtmakers, and am interested to see what they offer in terms of unique design etc.

 

[hirschlederne]

Speaking of shirt cloth, does anyone have experience with caccioppoli shirtings?

I have a few shirts from their cloth. I like their light cloth for the summer.

 

[hnwhite]

I haven't been on or posted on SF in ages. I had a great experience this week visiting a mill in Ireland and thought it worth sharing with you guys. Lots of photos naturally.

Okay, so I took a thinly veiled #menswear holiday to Ireland, driving around Co. Donegal, the region best known for their rough, colour flecked tweeds. Naturally I scheduled a meeting with Molloy & Sons. I'm sure a few SF members have commissions made up with their cloth. It had always intrigued me.

Scenery, for your viewing pleasure:






After much frustration with the Sat Nav on a blustery Monday lunchtime, I finally found my destination: a rather nondescript outhouse, attached to a detached rural country house that could have passed for a farm.

Upon entering I was met by Kieran who kindly showed me around and explained exactly how they make their Donegal tweed. It's a very small operation with Kieran and his father, Shaun along with some relatives. I think he said a maximum of 5 in total making up the whole operation.

One of the interesting things Kieran told me was that "Donegal Tweed" is not a protected term, as Harris Tweed is. So if you buy, for instance, W.Bill Donegal, its not made in Donegal. As I understand its actually woven for them in Tipperary in Southern Ireland, but you get the idea. You could have a Donegal cloth woven in Huddersfield for instance. Or Italy. Interestingly, Molloy do not make for any other mills/merchants.

They have specialised with their stock supported cloth in heavier weights, 13-15oz. They are looking to develop that range to include lighter weights. I'm sure that will be popular with those who use Neapolitan tailors. As well as lighter weights, they will look to produce designs other than plain and herringbone weaves. I saw some lovely Prince of Wales bolts while I was there.

I was there of course as an enthusiast, but also to commission some cloth that I could make into ties. I selected many colours that I liked from the strike off blanket (pictured below). We'll narrow this down in the next few weeks and hopefully have some nice, lightly lined ties with handrolled tips as a result. We'll go with a navy, a green, a brown and a copper/orange. I'll choose the exact fabrics once the swatches arrive.

Anyhow, enough talking, here are the photos I took.

 

[supern0va]

I’m thinking of a double breasted overcoat in navy. Would like some advice on weight:

Is 19-20oz sufficient? I’m considering 3 fabrics:

- 19oz/540g Abraham Moon 95%wool/5% cashmere. This is the thinnest/softest fabric of the lot

- 20oz/580g Dugdale 100% wool coating

-23oz/650g Dugdale 100% wool coating. This is the thickest material.

Is stiffness/thickness a plus here? I’m probably going to use it mainly in London/NY type weather. Appreciate any help.

 

[Concordia]

Should cover most of what winter throws at you, depending on what else you wear, your internal thermometer, etc.

And if you wind up needing a super-warm coat for those north winds screeching down from Quebec, you’ll know that pretty soon.