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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Manton, Feb 10, 2008.

  1. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Senior member

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    Does anyone have thoughts on when a bellied vs straight lapel is appropriate?


    Bellied Lapel
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    Straight Lapel
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  2. The Chai

    The Chai Well-Known Member

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    IMO abit of belly looks nicer on a peak lapel. Belly also looks good if you want to make the jacket look ‘soft’ and more relaxed. Straight lapels look more sleek and formal
     


  3. aristoi bcn

    aristoi bcn Senior member

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    I think the straightness of the lapel has nothing to do with formality and it's a question of style.

    I don't like bellied lapels at all, so for me tailors who normally do them are a big no, but only because I don't like the style. Some tailors are flexible with this, but I'd rather go with tailors who normally do straight lapels, both on SB and DB.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     


  4. The Chai

    The Chai Well-Known Member

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    You're right, it doesn't but to my eye straight lapels do look more sleek...I'm starting to prefer them too
     


  5. jonathanS

    jonathanS Senior member

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    I kind of like the concaved lapels which start off small and then extend to a nice 4" lapel like the neapolitans do.

    I think all lapels are a little bit bellied, even the ones that lie straight bc the shape of an individual's chest makes the lapel appear flat even when it's slightly bellied - it helps it sit in nicely in the chest.
     


  6. Andy57

    Andy57 Senior member

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    I agree with this, except I'm the opposite. I like bellied lapels and I'm not so keen on straight lapels. I think it's entirely a matter of personal preference.
     


  7. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    It may also depend on your tailor's eye, as well as your build, etc.

    A lot of A&S bellied DB look great. Some others from parts of Italy look like something that should have been dropped after the 1940s. Same with straight lapels. Some look fine, others are just ill-proportioned.
     


  8. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Senior member

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    Should the cloth (texture and pattern) also play a roll in deciding between bellied or straightened lapels?

    Also, 4in lapels suck.
     
    Last edited: Oct 23, 2017 at 8:32 AM


  9. jcmeyer

    jcmeyer Senior member

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    My limited experience with bellied lapels has been with Steed, and my experience with Steed has been limited to F/W fabrics because I like their house style for heavier cloth. So because of this purely anecdotal experience, my take is that bellied works better in the F/W realm than with a lighter S/S jacket where I personally like the more neapolitan cut with straighter/concave lapels.

    But to Andy's point it probably comes down more to personal preference.
     


  10. Andy57

    Andy57 Senior member

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    Are you looking for a "rule" where none exists?

    So I think the answer to your question I quoted is "yes", but how much of a role is up to you. For me, I just like a slight curve to my lapels, so that's what I ask for, regardless of cloth or weight. Your preference might be for something else entirely, and that's fine.
     


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