The Watch Appreciation Thread (Reviews and Photos of Men's Timepieces by Rolex, Patek Philippe, Brei

[fashion tip]

Omega Deville chrono 24 is my favorite.

 

[no frills]

While I was waiting in line to see the Grandmaster Chime (assembly time 730 days, MSRP $2.5m) up close, one woman asked one of the attendants if "that is even better than a Rolex?"

The attendant didn't know where to begin...

What did you think of the Grandmaster Chime? When I saw it up close a few months ago, it was inside a glass case - still, I had no desire to put it on my wrist. I can understand all the work that went into the complications, and even the level of craftsmanship required for the ornate engraving on and around the case and even the deployant clasp. I can even understand the case size (47.4mm) and thickness (16.1mm, thinner than a DSSD).

But when it all came together and I actually saw the watch, I didn't quite have a favorable reaction, even if (a) I had the cash to blow on that piece; (b) I had the means to procure it (only six are to be sold worldwide) and (c) even if I relaxed my own view that watches are to be worn and not simply kept in a vault or admired from afar as part of a collection. It just... did nothing for me.

Which is not how I reacted when I saw the Caliber 89 - even though I wasn't into pocket watches, I saw that thing and something inside me said "wow, what a beautiful piece."

 

[Dino944]

So I'm looking for a dress casual watch to 'pair' or complement my recently aquired BLNR; one that will be worn to work on a brown gator strap (most of my shoes are brown). I'd prefer a watch that is available w/ a bracelet but won't exclude a watch w/o one. I stopped by my local AD to try on the Tank MC, Tank Anglaise XL, & Calibre de Cartier. I was pleasantly surprised to see that a smaller 38mm CdC is now available.

I really like the larger 42mm, particulary given how it's available w/ a bracelet. However I'm reluctant to purchase one as I've flipped both of my recent >40mm watches (my Polar Exp II & my Speedy 9300). I was actually impressed at how the 38mm wore more similar to a 40mm watch.'

I'd like to hear thoughts from others!

Tank MC:

The three watches you looked at share the same movement, the inhouse cal 1904 MC. I've tried the 42 CdC and the Tank MC, but have yet to try on the CdC 38. I have Cartier's discontinued, or as they like to say "Retired" 38.5mm Pasha 950 Chronograph and I can comfortably go back and forth between that watch and any of my 40mm watches.

Personally, from what I can see I prefer the dial of the 38mm CdC to the 42. I prefer that on the 38 they are not going from Romans on top to stick markers at the bottom, and that the 38 doesn't have that annoying IWC-ish date window that displays 3 dates. As mentioned I have not tried the 38 on, so I can't say whether there is a ratio of height to diameter that might matter to me on some watches.

I do think the option of being able to go from a bracelet to a strap is nice, however, I am not really a fan of the bracelet on the CdC. I thought it was kind of clunky and not as refined as some bracelets Cartier has done in the past. The bracelet on the 42 sort of strikes me as an elongated Oyster bracelet, but I just don't love it on that watch. For me it wasn't all that comfortable on a bracelet, but maybe with some fine adjustments it would be better.

Overall, I liked the Tank MC. I thought it had a nice profile and it fit comfortably on my wrist. Also, if you currently have 2 watches, it might be nice to have a different shape in your collection. My sports watches and daily wearers are round, but all of my dress watches are non-round cases, so its also adds a completely different look at feel when I go to non-round case. Cartier is known for their Tank watches and the MC is their newest and sportiest version. I've had a Tank dress watch for about 7 years and its one of my favorite pieces.

Wishing you luck with whatever you decide.

 

[atila]

Here's another pic of the Muller...

As you can see, it's definitely different. At first glance I was like, "this isn't for me" but then after seeing how it works (for reference, we're showing 11:58 as the time in the pic), it was too interesting to not keep. Definitely not something I would EVER pick for myself, but that's part of the appeal, too. So guy comes into my jewelery store (unfortunately we sell NO watches, only high end diamond jewelery) and wants to sell this... the watch is not working. Being that it's not just a standard complication, I have no idea what this is going to cost. I opened the watch to confirm authenticity, did a quick search online to see the value (approx $17k brand new), and asked him what he was looking for - he asked for 2k... I told him because it doesn't work, I could only offer him $1500... he took it.

Had to go through a few different watchmakers, all of whom who regularly service watches for us... no one wanted to touch it. Finally got referred to a specialty watchmaker who has an excellent reputation here in LA. Even they thought this watch was nuts... at this point I was a little nervous about how much I was going to sink into it... but after replacing a few minor parts and doing a full service and $500 later, I have a working watch. It's a little gimmicky, I guess, but it's a fun alternative to my everyday DateJust.

 

[BostonHedonist]

What did you think of the Grandmaster Chime? When I saw it up close a few months ago, it was inside a glass case - still, I had no desire to put it on my wrist. I can understand all the work that went into the complications, and even the level of craftsmanship required for the ornate engraving on and around the case and even the deployant clasp. I can even understand the case size (47.4mm) and thickness (16.1mm, thinner than a DSSD).

But when it all came together and I actually saw the watch, I didn't quite have a favorable reaction, even if (a) I had the cash to blow on that piece; (b) I had the means to procure it (only six are to be sold worldwide) and (c) even if I relaxed my own view that watches are to be worn and not simply kept in a vault or admired from afar as part of a collection. It just... did nothing for me.

Which is not how I reacted when I saw the Caliber 89 - even though I wasn't into pocket watches, I saw that thing and something inside me said "wow, what a beautiful piece."

Well, let's take a look, shall we?













I'd love to have one... My GMC valet would carry it in a velvet-lined Braziliian Rosewood box and it would only be worn in my throne room and at coronations, and the most formal of occasions.


But seriously, this is what the world's greatest watchmaker does to show off. It's probably the most opulent retail item I've ever seen. But desire it? That's just not my station.

 

[Dachshund]

So two minutes later the hour hand jumps around to 12, right? I have to say it's a fun piece and I'd have done the same in your shoes - you've got your 2k's worth of fun right there.

 

[gopherblue]



So two minutes later the hour hand jumps around to 12, right? I have to say it's a fun piece and I'd have done the same in your shoes - you've got your 2k's worth of fun right there.

Not to my taste, but kind of a cool complication. Definitely worth the $2K.

Here it is in action...


[VIDEO][/VIDEO]

 

[troika]

Blue dialed Inge, anyone?



As new offerings from IWC goes, this one looks pretty good. And at a manageable 40mm too. I don't care for the case back, but at least it's solid.

Just tried this guy on since I'm in Vegas. Rad design on the case back (they have a contest for kid's drawings and the winners get's their art engraved with some proceeds going to charity) - it wears a little small for a diver tbh, but it's a really great thickness, very manageable.

 

[gopherblue]



Well, let's take a look, shall we?

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

I'd love to have one... My GMC valet would carry it in a velvet-lined Braziliian Rosewood box and it would only be worn in my throne room and at coronations, and the most formal of occasions. But seriously, this is what the world's greatest watchmaker does to show off. It's probably the most opulent retail item I've ever seen. But desire it? That's just not my station.

I am so, so, so pissed this wasn't open a month earlier when I was in London.

 

[ShawnBC]

I wish one day I'll be able to see the Grandmaster Chimes in person.

 

[Dino944]

it wears a little small for a diver tbh

Although its water resistant, it wasn't designed as a diving watch. If you want an IWC diving watch you should probably check out their Aquatimers. Cheers!

 

[FlorianQC]

Hey guys! Stumbled upon this watch on eBay. Still on auctions and wanting to get it but I don't know anything on Longines... Especially this one has no other markings than the photo and the case was not opened...

Do you guys have any info on that? CHeers!

 

[TheWraith]



I disagree for the same reasons.

I prefer the cleaner look of no date, and don't like the green second hand much.  For me, the standard Sub is the quintessential sporty Rolex (and the plain Oyster the less sporty).  Not that I dislike the GMT, but in that one I have a kinky desire for the gold and steel one on a shabby strap.  Gold nipples FTW.

+1

For me, the Sub is pretty much the greatest sport/dive watch there is. Simple, clean, and can be worn (especially today) with just about everything.

 

[dddrees]



I disagree for the same reasons.

I prefer the cleaner look of no date, and don't like the green second hand much.  For me, the standard Sub is the quintessential sporty Rolex (and the plain Oyster the less sporty).  Not that I dislike the GMT, but in that one I have a kinky desire for the gold and steel one on a shabby strap.  Gold nipples FTW.

For me it's always been good to have a little bit of color. Whether that be a little bit of Red or Green.

 

[IGotId]

Quote:
Thanks for the lengthy & thoughtful response. I agree re: the 38mm's dial. I think it looks more 'clean', the 42's large font XII throws the dial off IMO. I was actually surprised that the 38mm 'wears' larger, more like a 40mm. That being said, I think I'm leaning towards the Tank MC. Do you know about ordering straps from Cartier? I'd want to wear mine on a dark brown gator strap.