The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[a tailor]

second look.
the the drags at the center back can be removed by shortening the back at the top.
also the right hip looks a bit tight,

 

[acecow]



[/SPOILER]

The jacket silhouette works well for you. My critique will be in 2 parts. What can be altered and what could be done if it is being made for you. Not sure about some things I see as the jacket doesn't seem centered but in a way that I can't decipher.
The front view looks good but your right shoulder is higher than the left at the shoulder point and the neck. This causes the right front to be shorter than the left. The back could use some cleaning up. This is an example of a roll across the back but you don't want to lower the collar. The roll is caused by tension from your shoulder blades and this creates a hollow area between the blades. The left side has some diagonal lines, this is from your low left shoulder. The correction is to open the collar and both shoulders and let out the center back seam 1/4" double at the neck/collar point to about a third of the way down the back. This makes the back yoke and the back wider/larger across your blades. Narrow the yoke at the neck point by 1/8" to make the back shoulder a bit longer and create more fullness to be eased in over the blades. The blades don't look that big so I am using the smallest amount to adjust by. Plus the lightweight cloth needs to be considered. To let out anymore at the neck may cause a problem to refit the collar. You need some extra fullness on the undercollar and it may not be there.The tailor could also recut the left shoulder for your low side while doing this and use the iron to shrink along the back of the armhole.
From the back view the jacket seems to be sitting on your hips. Looks like you might have a high right hip as the jacket seems to be tighter on the right side. The front trouser crease pulls to the right on that leg too. The trouser has the ubiquitous long back and the waistband needs to lowered in the back to clean up the wrinkling under the seat. Trim cut trousers really need to hang well to look good.

The adjustment if this was being cut for you would be to make the right side longer for your high shoulder rather than cut the left low and I would want to raise the collar and adjust for your blades. Would make sure the jacket is centered on you but not sure it would need an adjustment it if the shoulders were sitting properly on you.Would balance the trouser front to back to adjust for the way you stand.

Wow, what an excellent reply! You are truly something! Of course, I've read this twice and I'm still not 100% sure what you meant in some of the explanations. I'll dwell on it more tomorrow. What you describe is correct, I have a higher right shoulder due to playing tennis; all my jackets suffer from it. Usually, heavier fabric disguises the flaws better, but in this case every wrinkles show, especially on the back. I'm afraid all the alterations you proposed would cost me more than the jacket itself, but the back definitely needs some cleaning up. I like this suit, but I had an uneasy feeling about the fit, as if it wasn't exactly perfect. I think you've found all the flaws and even more. Thank you!

 

[acecow]



the sleeves are ok.
your right shirt sleeve is is pulled up, making the sleeves appear uneven .
the coats length is a bit short, unless you are fashion fore ward.
cant tell if you have a left low shoulder or, your shirt collar is pulled to the right.
your trouser will never come down any farther, because the bottom is too narrow.
make sure the trouser is well up on your waist and remove some of the excess break.

I like my jackets a little shorter than the classical way. I'm young, after all, and wear them for leisure, not business. The pants got caught up while I was running to take a pose as the timer was beeping, usually they are fine. You are right about the low left shoulder, I have it. Thank you!

 

[aon]



The proportions look more offputting than the fit on this one. Shoulders are too wide. The button position in relation to vest looks off to me and that is a huge front button. Looks like the doublebreasted size. The lower patch pockets are smallish to the size of the jacket and sit too high from the hem. Would shorten the jacket 3/4" and lower the pocket some. Best option would be to make new patch pockets. The jacket fits too close at the back of the blades. I would let out the side body only, not the back part, 1/2" on each side. As is, the back looks tight at the bottom of the armhole and big from that point up to the shoulder. Ubiquitous wrinkles at the back of the sleeves and long back on the trousers. Shorten the trousers.

Hi Despos, thanks for this. I will go back to my tailor as soon as I have time and ask what he can do to improve on this. I also agree that the patch pockets have to be replaced. Thanks again!

 

[a tailor]



I'm not sure if you're willing to answer questions for DIY'ers in here, so if not, mods feel free to just delete this post, but if so...


How does my padstitching on the collar look? It's my first time, so be brutally honest.

How about up there in the chest... sorry if the angle of the photo is bad...

Here's my work on the sleeve so far... does the mitred cuff look okay? Also, I put a sleeve head in at the top before attaching the sleeve to the jacket body... is this a bad idea? I've had trouble finding a good reference for the sleeve head - or it could be that my comprehension is what's lacking.

Thanks!

you are in the wrong website for this. try "the cutter and tailor" you will find a great of help there.

 

[sugarbutch]

I can save you one critique by acknowledging off the bat that coat sleeves need to be lengthened a bit. Thanks in advance...

 

[IsteRed]

Once again,awesome thread!I don't know if my question fits but i think i can get the best answer here,i'm planning on getting a navy DB brass button blazer and want to know what is the right option for vents on DB blazer,double vent?single?no vent?i think side vents are the right choice,right?

 

[inlandisland]



you are in the wrong website for this. try "the cutter and tailor" you will find a great of help there.

Thanks - I am using C&T as a reference quite often. Waiting to find out if I'm allowed to ask questions about jackets there... I'll check back here when the jacket is done (enough for a fit-pic).

 

[mktitsworth]

Wonderful thread. Thanks very much for setting it up emptym, and very much for contributing your expertise, a_tailor, Despos, and JefferyD.

 

[Eason]



I can save you one critique by acknowledging off the bat that coat sleeves need to be lengthened a bit. Thanks in advance...

Spoiler

It seems a little counter-intuitive but despite the very slight waist suppression in the jacket it's still dimpling/pulling at the button. Not sure what the solution would be but maybe your tailor will have some good ideas.
The pant look strange to me from the front- like they're completely straight cut without any taper at all, I've never seen suit pants like that before. I know that you're probably going for a full-cut as evidenced by the cuffs, but It doesn't match up with the fit of the jacket (or fabric you're using). I'd taper another 1" at least.

 

[Despos]



I can save you one critique by acknowledging off the bat that coat sleeves need to be lengthened a bit. Thanks in advance...

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

Most obvious to my eye is the right lapel is pressed to roll to the top button and the left rolls to the middle button. Second is that one pocket flap is in and two are out.
You have a low left shoulder and that causes the pull on the front button and the wrinkles on the back. Your posture is erect and the back of the jacket is a touch long. The jacket sits on your hips a bit.
Since the trousers leg is full, I suggest a bit more break on the trouser and get your tailor to make the back a little longer. The pictures show the back to be almost shorter than the front. Adding a little shape to the line of the trouser wouldn't hurt.

 

[sugarbutch]

Thank you for the feedback. I didn't notice that I'd inadvertently tucked the left pocket until after I'd posted the pics. The trousers are my first with side tabs, and this was my first time wearing them. I wonder If they might have been sitting oddly on my hips, causing the long-in-front, short-in-back issue. They also have buttons for braces. Might wearing braces and letting them "hang" from my shoulders improve the situation? Also, can you expand on the "sitting on the hips" comment? I think I know what you mean, but I would appreciate further explication if you don't mind.

 

[Despos]

Not sure about the trouser and the way they sit on your hip but the hem is too horizontal. Left leg looks shorter from the back view than the right.

For the way you are standing in these pictures the back of the jacket is long in relation to the front. This creates the dimple type wrinkles at the waist on the back part. If you lift the back up they disappear. The alteration on a finished jacket is to open the side seams and lower the back part about 3/4" and sew up the sides again. The underarm curve on the sidebody will be reshaped and then sew up the sleeves. That's what I mean by "sitting on your hip". The back at the blades is too wide on both sides and could be reduced some and the sleeve is out of sync with the armhole so you have the diagonal wrinkles at the top of the sleeve.
The front view, the left front hangs lower than the right front and I think the middle button would be better about 3/4" lower.
Is this a RTW suit?

 

[Threadbearer]

New MTM sport coat submitted for fit critique. Those lumps across my upper back in the second shot are from a pair of suspenders.

Follow this link for better pics of the fabric and for the maker's contact info: http://www.styleforum.net/t/234255/hof-what-are-you-wearing-right-now-part-iii/12540#post_4829081

 

[jefferyd]



New MTM sport coat submitted for fit critique. Those lumps across my upper back in the second shot are from a pair of suspenders.

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

Follow this link for better pics of the fabric and for the maker's contact info: http://www.styleforum.net/t/234255/hof-what-are-you-wearing-right-now-part-iii/12540#post_4829081

For starters, your posture is very erect in these shots (are you maybe puffing a bit for the camera?) so the front/back balance is off by a large amount, and the strap is too short (something that can't really be corrected on a finished garment). Observe how the vertical lines converge on the lower part of the front, and how the horizontal lines lift on the side view. People with erect postures carry their arms further back so these sleeves need to be rotated back, but the plaid gets in the way of this alteration- this needs to be done to the pattern before cutting.

I'm a little puzzled because the front shot looks like your right shoulder is low (a bit of extra wadding on that side should help clear up the buckling at the waist) , but on the back view it seems your left is low, unless you have some sort of prominent blade on the left only. I would need a closer look to know what needs to be done to clear up the diagonal creases on the left.

The collar could be raised a bit, the sleeve lengths are not even, and the pockets are a bit too high.

When cropping photos it would be helpful to use the architectural lines as a guide to get them straight otherwise we have to tilt our heads to see them properly.