The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[emptym]

Fit is one of the most important yet overlooked elements of style. A garment can be made of an elegant fabric and constructed with fancy details. But if it doesn't fit, it won't look good or feel good.

While standards of fit are influenced by personal taste and fashion, they are largely based on the way our bodies are made and move. (For example: Wide lapels may come and go, but high arm holes have a timeless function.) Identifying a properly-fitted garment takes a lot of knowledge. And much more is required to construct such a garment. In this thread, all are welcome, from those purchasing a first suit, to those seeking more advanced refinement.

What makes this thread special is that it will be curated by some of America's finest tailors. They will teach us not simply what is wrong with a garment, but why it is wrong, and how it can be fixed, if it can be fixed. In exchange for such generous service, our tailors, ask only one thing--good pictures, so defined:

Please wear dress shoes and a dress shirt with the cuffs and collar buttoned. Belt/suspenders required if pants are loose. Tie optional. Feet should be even, no more than hip distance apart, with weight equally distributed on both. Arms should hang comfortably to the sides (no flapping wings). And subjects should stand naturally--avoid puffing their chest or snapping to attention for the camera. Full front, side and back shots are ideal. They should be well-lit, with the camera held straight, 10-12 feet away, about chest/ribcage high. Other positions or angles will cause distortion, as will wide-angle lenses.​

Here are some examples:





We thank the tailors in advance. And if you want to tear apart the fit above pls. do!

PS: We now have a Second Tailors' Thread on construction and alteration techniques.

 

[Parker]

Looking good, empty. For photos, I'd also suggest the camera be about 10-12 feet away, about chest/ribcage high, and level with the ground, not pointed up or down. It will help alleviate lens distortion especially with point-and-shoot cameras.

Great idea for a thread. Looking forward to reading more.

 

[chogall]

Finally a much needed consolidation thread for all those iphone photos fit critique

 

[philosophe]

Brilliant! Thanks in advance, gentlemen.

 

[Gus]

Excellent thread concept. I'm looking forward to this.

 

[TheTukker]

 

[Superfluous]

sample pic looks pretty good.

Did the three members agree to do this, btw? I could see them getting behind on requests, haha.

 

[a tailor]

looking good there emptym. just a bit more length on the right sleeve.
picture is good enough for GQ.
in fact its too good.for GQ.

 

[a tailor]

second look... slight left low shoulder. tight across the butt, more on the left than the right.

 

[Despos]

One good thing in emptym's pictures is the lighting. Easy to make out details from the clear pictures.

Feel free to post pictures of issues you run into when buying jackets or trousers. One of us will diagnose what the cause may be and suggest the alterations needed to correct the fit. As there will be many of the same issues, we will try to diagram the cause and the adjustments needed for the more common alterations to avoid too much repetition.

Some issues like a roll under the collar may have multiple causes due to different body types or postures and there is more than one way to remove a roll under the collar. When the cause is correctly identified we can recommend the proper alteration.

 

[jefferyd]

+a million on the lighting. Dark iPhone photos are impossible to analyze.

The position of the side seams overemphasizes the seat a bit, both from the back and side view. By shifting the seam a bit you could reduce the width of the vents and the apparent width of the seat. Also, when suppressing a hollow waist with a prominent seat, which can make side vents appear to kick, I sometimes add another dart on the sidebody hidden under the arm instead of taking so much out at the side seam.

 

[academe]

Great idea and thanks to the three pros for agreeing to take this on. Is there any way to get this pinned so that new members can see it at the top of the page? I notice that since this thread emerged, there have already been a few "does this suit fit" threads where the posters seem to have ignored the existence of this thread altogether!

 

[Verniza]

Fantastic thread! Shall abuse the pros when I get my first suit. Thanks for the future aid.

 

[emptym]

^^ Yep, the plan is to pin the thread and to move similar threads here if their pics are good, and, if not, to suggest that good pics be taken and then posted here.

...For photos, I'd also suggest the camera be about 10-12 feet away, about chest/ribcage high, and level with the ground, not pointed up or down. It will help alleviate lens distortion especially with point-and-shoot cameras....

One good thing in emptym's pictures is the lighting. Easy to make out details from the clear pictures...

Good ideas. I'll add them to the OP.

... just a bit more length on the right sleeve.,.

...The position of the side seams overemphasizes the seat a bit, both from the back and side view. By shifting the seam a bit you could reduce the width of the vents and the apparent width of the seat. Also, when suppressing a hollow waist with a prominent seat, which can make side vents appear to kick, I sometimes add another dart on the sidebody hidden under the arm instead of taking so much out at the side seam.

Very helpful. Thank you both. I'm particularly grateful for JD's comment about how to solve the vent problem.

 

[UrbanComposition]

Great idea for a thread. Nice one, emptym.