The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    second look.
    the the drags at the center back can be removed by shortening the back at the top.
    also the right hip looks a bit tight,
     
  2. acecow

    acecow Senior member

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    Wow, what an excellent reply! You are truly something! Of course, I've read this twice and I'm still not 100% sure what you meant in some of the explanations. I'll dwell on it more tomorrow. What you describe is correct, I have a higher right shoulder due to playing tennis; all my jackets suffer from it. Usually, heavier fabric disguises the flaws better, but in this case every wrinkles show, especially on the back. I'm afraid all the alterations you proposed would cost me more than the jacket itself, but the back definitely needs some cleaning up. I like this suit, but I had an uneasy feeling about the fit, as if it wasn't exactly perfect. I think you've found all the flaws and even more. :) Thank you!
     
    Last edited: Sep 19, 2011
  3. acecow

    acecow Senior member

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    I like my jackets a little shorter than the classical way. I'm young, after all, and wear them for leisure, not business. The pants got caught up while I was running to take a pose as the timer was beeping, usually they are fine. You are right about the low left shoulder, I have it. Thank you!
     
  4. aon

    aon Senior member

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    Hi Despos, thanks for this. I will go back to my tailor as soon as I have time and ask what he can do to improve on this. I also agree that the patch pockets have to be replaced. Thanks again! :)
     
  5. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    you are in the wrong website for this. try "the cutter and tailor" you will find a great of help there.
     
  6. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    I can save you one critique by acknowledging off the bat that coat sleeves need to be lengthened a bit. Thanks in advance...

    [​IMG]

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  7. IsteRed

    IsteRed Senior member

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    Once again,awesome thread!I don't know if my question fits but i think i can get the best answer here,i'm planning on getting a navy DB brass button blazer and want to know what is the right option for vents on DB blazer,double vent?single?no vent?i think side vents are the right choice,right?
     
  8. inlandisland

    inlandisland Senior member

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    Thanks - I am using C&T as a reference quite often. Waiting to find out if I'm allowed to ask questions about jackets there... I'll check back here when the jacket is done (enough for a fit-pic).
     
  9. mktitsworth

    mktitsworth Senior member

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    Wonderful thread. Thanks very much for setting it up emptym, and very much for contributing your expertise, a_tailor, Despos, and JefferyD.
     
  10. Eason

    Eason Bicurious Racist

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    It seems a little counter-intuitive but despite the very slight waist suppression in the jacket it's still dimpling/pulling at the button. Not sure what the solution would be but maybe your tailor will have some good ideas.
    The pant look strange to me from the front- like they're completely straight cut without any taper at all, I've never seen suit pants like that before. I know that you're probably going for a full-cut as evidenced by the cuffs, but It doesn't match up with the fit of the jacket (or fabric you're using). I'd taper another 1" at least.
     
    Last edited: Sep 20, 2011
  11. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Most obvious to my eye is the right lapel is pressed to roll to the top button and the left rolls to the middle button. Second is that one pocket flap is in and two are out.
    You have a low left shoulder and that causes the pull on the front button and the wrinkles on the back. Your posture is erect and the back of the jacket is a touch long. The jacket sits on your hips a bit.
    Since the trousers leg is full, I suggest a bit more break on the trouser and get your tailor to make the back a little longer. The pictures show the back to be almost shorter than the front. Adding a little shape to the line of the trouser wouldn't hurt.
     
  12. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    Thank you for the feedback. I didn't notice that I'd inadvertently tucked the left pocket until after I'd posted the pics. The trousers are my first with side tabs, and this was my first time wearing them. I wonder If they might have been sitting oddly on my hips, causing the long-in-front, short-in-back issue. They also have buttons for braces. Might wearing braces and letting them "hang" from my shoulders improve the situation? Also, can you expand on the "sitting on the hips" comment? I think I know what you mean, but I would appreciate further explication if you don't mind.
     
  13. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Not sure about the trouser and the way they sit on your hip but the hem is too horizontal. Left leg looks shorter from the back view than the right.

    For the way you are standing in these pictures the back of the jacket is long in relation to the front. This creates the dimple type wrinkles at the waist on the back part. If you lift the back up they disappear. The alteration on a finished jacket is to open the side seams and lower the back part about 3/4" and sew up the sides again. The underarm curve on the sidebody will be reshaped and then sew up the sleeves. That's what I mean by "sitting on your hip". The back at the blades is too wide on both sides and could be reduced some and the sleeve is out of sync with the armhole so you have the diagonal wrinkles at the top of the sleeve.
    The front view, the left front hangs lower than the right front and I think the middle button would be better about 3/4" lower.
    Is this a RTW suit?
     
    Last edited: Sep 21, 2011
  14. Threadbearer

    Threadbearer Senior member

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  15. jefferyd

    jefferyd Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    For starters, your posture is very erect in these shots (are you maybe puffing a bit for the camera?) so the front/back balance is off by a large amount, and the strap is too short (something that can't really be corrected on a finished garment). Observe how the vertical lines converge on the lower part of the front, and how the horizontal lines lift on the side view. People with erect postures carry their arms further back so these sleeves need to be rotated back, but the plaid gets in the way of this alteration- this needs to be done to the pattern before cutting.

    I'm a little puzzled because the front shot looks like your right shoulder is low (a bit of extra wadding on that side should help clear up the buckling at the waist) , but on the back view it seems your left is low, unless you have some sort of prominent blade on the left only. I would need a closer look to know what needs to be done to clear up the diagonal creases on the left.

    The collar could be raised a bit, the sleeve lengths are not even, and the pockets are a bit too high.

    When cropping photos it would be helpful to use the architectural lines as a guide to get them straight otherwise we have to tilt our heads to see them properly.
     

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