Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.
Thank you for this thread, will revisit this again with photos when everything arrives.
I will definitely be back here in a few days.
If I'm honest, I'm kinda afraid to post pics here...
Awesome thread,will post when will get my stuff back from tailor alterations recommended in waywrn thread.
^^ There is plenty of room in the WAYWRN thread to critique accessories and color choices- let's keep this one focused on the technical aspects of fit.
^I agree with both of you that a different tie would have been better, and that we should confine this thread's discussion to fit.
(I had just received an order from Chan and one from Panta, so I put them on. And since I had some time, I took pictures, just thinking they'd be for my own use, to assess the fit. I've tried taking other pics since (one of which I posted on WAYWRN a couple days ago) but none of them came out very well in terms of lighting and focus. I suck at taking these kind of pictures. As others have commented, it takes some practice.)
Please don't be. I know it can be scary to put yourself out there, but this is how we learn. And where else will you get such friendly, objective, expert advice?
You never said anything about being friendly.
I'm not sure if you're willing to answer questions for DIY'ers in here, so if not, mods feel free to just delete this post, but if so...
Good thread! I have a new suit from a very thin blend of silk and cotton. (or is it silk and wool? not sure) I'm a little on the fence trying to decide if I need to alter the jacket or not. All I had done so far was hem the pants and shorten the sleeves as much as possible. What do you guys think? Click for bigger pictures.
Got my new suit from a local tailor (Cornell's). Would appreciate comments on the fit. Thanks in advance.
What would you alter?
The jacket silhouette works well for you. My critique will be in 2 parts. What can be altered and what could be done if it is being made for you. Not sure about some things I see as the jacket doesn't seem centered but in a way that I can't decipher.
The front view looks good but your right shoulder is higher than the left at the shoulder point and the neck. This causes the right front to be shorter than the left. The back could use some cleaning up. This is an example of a roll across the back but you don't want to lower the collar. The roll is caused by tension from your shoulder blades and this creates a hollow area between the blades. The left side has some diagonal lines, this is from your low left shoulder. The correction is to open the collar and both shoulders and let out the center back seam 1/4" double at the neck/collar point to about a third of the way down the back. This makes the back yoke and the back wider/larger across your blades. Narrow the yoke at the neck point by 1/8" to make the back shoulder a bit longer and create more fullness to be eased in over the blades. The blades don't look that big so I am using the smallest amount to adjust by. Plus the lightweight cloth needs to be considered. To let out anymore at the neck may cause a problem to refit the collar. You need some extra fullness on the undercollar and it may not be there.The tailor could also recut the left shoulder for your low side while doing this and use the iron to shrink along the back of the armhole.
From the back view the jacket seems to be sitting on your hips. Looks like you might have a high right hip as the jacket seems to be tighter on the right side. The front trouser crease pulls to the right on that leg too. The trouser has the ubiquitous long back and the waistband needs to lowered in the back to clean up the wrinkling under the seat. Trim cut trousers really need to hang well to look good.
The adjustment if this was being cut for you would be to make the right side longer for your high shoulder rather than cut the left low and I would want to raise the collar and adjust for your blades. Would make sure the jacket is centered on you but not sure it would need an adjustment it if the shoulders were sitting properly on you.Would balance the trouser front to back to adjust for the way you stand.
The proportions look more offputting than the fit on this one. Shoulders are too wide. The button position in relation to vest looks off to me and that is a huge front button. Looks like the doublebreasted size. The lower patch pockets are smallish to the size of the jacket and sit too high from the hem. Would shorten the jacket 3/4" and lower the pocket some. Best option would be to make new patch pockets. The jacket fits too close at the back of the blades. I would let out the side body only, not the back part, 1/2" on each side. As is, the back looks tight at the bottom of the armhole and big from that point up to the shoulder. Ubiquitous wrinkles at the back of the sleeves and long back on the trousers. Shorten the trousers.
the sleeves are ok.
your right shirt sleeve is is pulled up, making the sleeves appear uneven .
the coats length is a bit short, unless you are fashion fore ward.
cant tell if you have a left low shoulder or, your shirt collar is pulled to the right.
your trouser will never come down any farther, because the bottom is too narrow.
make sure the trouser is well up on your waist and remove some of the excess break.
Great looking suit and fits you very well. An excellent tailor.
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