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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. emptym

    emptym Well-Known Member

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    ^I agree with both of you that a different tie would have been better, and that we should confine this thread's discussion to fit.

    (I had just received an order from Chan and one from Panta, so I put them on. And since I had some time, I took pictures, just thinking they'd be for my own use, to assess the fit. I've tried taking other pics since (one of which I posted on WAYWRN a couple days ago) but none of them came out very well in terms of lighting and focus. I suck at taking these kind of pictures. As others have commented, it takes some practice.)

    Please don't be. I know it can be scary to put yourself out there, but this is how we learn. And where else will you get such friendly, objective, expert advice?
     
    Last edited: Jan 20, 2012
  2. jefferyd

    jefferyd Well-Known Member

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    What?

    You never said anything about being friendly.
     
    1 person likes this.
  3. inlandisland

    inlandisland Well-Known Member

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    I'm not sure if you're willing to answer questions for DIY'ers in here, so if not, mods feel free to just delete this post, but if so...


    Edited.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 19, 2011
    1 person likes this.
  4. acecow

    acecow Well-Known Member

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    Good thread! I have a new suit from a very thin blend of silk and cotton. (or is it silk and wool? not sure) I'm a little on the fence trying to decide if I need to alter the jacket or not. All I had done so far was hem the pants and shorten the sleeves as much as possible. What do you guys think? Click for bigger pictures.

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    Last edited: Sep 17, 2011
  5. aon

    aon Well-Known Member

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    Got my new suit from a local tailor (Cornell's). Would appreciate comments on the fit. Thanks in advance.

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    Last edited: Sep 17, 2011
  6. Superfluous

    Superfluous Well-Known Member

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    What would you alter?
     
    1 person likes this.
  7. Despos

    Despos Well-Known Member

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    The jacket silhouette works well for you. My critique will be in 2 parts. What can be altered and what could be done if it is being made for you. Not sure about some things I see as the jacket doesn't seem centered but in a way that I can't decipher.
    The front view looks good but your right shoulder is higher than the left at the shoulder point and the neck. This causes the right front to be shorter than the left. The back could use some cleaning up. This is an example of a roll across the back but you don't want to lower the collar. The roll is caused by tension from your shoulder blades and this creates a hollow area between the blades. The left side has some diagonal lines, this is from your low left shoulder. The correction is to open the collar and both shoulders and let out the center back seam 1/4" double at the neck/collar point to about a third of the way down the back. This makes the back yoke and the back wider/larger across your blades. Narrow the yoke at the neck point by 1/8" to make the back shoulder a bit longer and create more fullness to be eased in over the blades. The blades don't look that big so I am using the smallest amount to adjust by. Plus the lightweight cloth needs to be considered. To let out anymore at the neck may cause a problem to refit the collar. You need some extra fullness on the undercollar and it may not be there.The tailor could also recut the left shoulder for your low side while doing this and use the iron to shrink along the back of the armhole.
    From the back view the jacket seems to be sitting on your hips. Looks like you might have a high right hip as the jacket seems to be tighter on the right side. The front trouser crease pulls to the right on that leg too. The trouser has the ubiquitous long back and the waistband needs to lowered in the back to clean up the wrinkling under the seat. Trim cut trousers really need to hang well to look good.

    The adjustment if this was being cut for you would be to make the right side longer for your high shoulder rather than cut the left low and I would want to raise the collar and adjust for your blades. Would make sure the jacket is centered on you but not sure it would need an adjustment it if the shoulders were sitting properly on you.Would balance the trouser front to back to adjust for the way you stand.
     
    7 people like this.
  8. Despos

    Despos Well-Known Member

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    The proportions look more offputting than the fit on this one. Shoulders are too wide. The button position in relation to vest looks off to me and that is a huge front button. Looks like the doublebreasted size. The lower patch pockets are smallish to the size of the jacket and sit too high from the hem. Would shorten the jacket 3/4" and lower the pocket some. Best option would be to make new patch pockets. The jacket fits too close at the back of the blades. I would let out the side body only, not the back part, 1/2" on each side. As is, the back looks tight at the bottom of the armhole and big from that point up to the shoulder. Ubiquitous wrinkles at the back of the sleeves and long back on the trousers. Shorten the trousers.
     
    2 people like this.
  9. a tailor

    a tailor Well-Known Member

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    the sleeves are ok.
    your right shirt sleeve is is pulled up, making the sleeves appear uneven .
    the coats length is a bit short, unless you are fashion fore ward.
    cant tell if you have a left low shoulder or, your shirt collar is pulled to the right.
    your trouser will never come down any farther, because the bottom is too narrow.
    make sure the trouser is well up on your waist and remove some of the excess break.
     
  10. senoreme

    senoreme Member

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    Great looking suit and fits you very well. An excellent tailor.
     
  11. a tailor

    a tailor Well-Known Member

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    second look.
    the the drags at the center back can be removed by shortening the back at the top.
    also the right hip looks a bit tight,
     
  12. acecow

    acecow Well-Known Member

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    Wow, what an excellent reply! You are truly something! Of course, I've read this twice and I'm still not 100% sure what you meant in some of the explanations. I'll dwell on it more tomorrow. What you describe is correct, I have a higher right shoulder due to playing tennis; all my jackets suffer from it. Usually, heavier fabric disguises the flaws better, but in this case every wrinkles show, especially on the back. I'm afraid all the alterations you proposed would cost me more than the jacket itself, but the back definitely needs some cleaning up. I like this suit, but I had an uneasy feeling about the fit, as if it wasn't exactly perfect. I think you've found all the flaws and even more. :) Thank you!
     
    Last edited: Sep 19, 2011
    1 person likes this.
  13. acecow

    acecow Well-Known Member

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    I like my jackets a little shorter than the classical way. I'm young, after all, and wear them for leisure, not business. The pants got caught up while I was running to take a pose as the timer was beeping, usually they are fine. You are right about the low left shoulder, I have it. Thank you!
     
  14. aon

    aon Well-Known Member

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    Hi Despos, thanks for this. I will go back to my tailor as soon as I have time and ask what he can do to improve on this. I also agree that the patch pockets have to be replaced. Thanks again! :)
     
  15. a tailor

    a tailor Well-Known Member

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    you are in the wrong website for this. try "the cutter and tailor" you will find a great of help there.
     
  16. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Well-Known Member

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    I can save you one critique by acknowledging off the bat that coat sleeves need to be lengthened a bit. Thanks in advance...

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  17. IsteRed

    IsteRed Well-Known Member

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    Once again,awesome thread!I don't know if my question fits but i think i can get the best answer here,i'm planning on getting a navy DB brass button blazer and want to know what is the right option for vents on DB blazer,double vent?single?no vent?i think side vents are the right choice,right?
     
  18. inlandisland

    inlandisland Well-Known Member

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    Thanks - I am using C&T as a reference quite often. Waiting to find out if I'm allowed to ask questions about jackets there... I'll check back here when the jacket is done (enough for a fit-pic).
     
  19. mktitsworth

    mktitsworth Well-Known Member

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    Wonderful thread. Thanks very much for setting it up emptym, and very much for contributing your expertise, a_tailor, Despos, and JefferyD.
     
  20. Eason

    Eason Well-Known Member

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    It seems a little counter-intuitive but despite the very slight waist suppression in the jacket it's still dimpling/pulling at the button. Not sure what the solution would be but maybe your tailor will have some good ideas.
    The pant look strange to me from the front- like they're completely straight cut without any taper at all, I've never seen suit pants like that before. I know that you're probably going for a full-cut as evidenced by the cuffs, but It doesn't match up with the fit of the jacket (or fabric you're using). I'd taper another 1" at least.
     
    Last edited: Sep 20, 2011

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