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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The vent looks ok in these pictures. The sleeves are a different issue. They need to be re cut/reshaped to match the armhole.
     
  2. Achilles_

    Achilles_ Senior member

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    This may be the wrong area, but I could use some help.

    What can be done with this SC? I would have no problem sending it out to be fixed, I am even contacting Isaia to see if they have any recommendations.

    The holes below may not be noticeable, but they are to me! I would love to make this like new, I am willing to spend a few hundred if need be as this is my favourite fabric I have even seen.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Any ideas?

    Edit: the holes are on the sleeves, at least 4 inches from the seam running down the arm.
     
    Last edited: Sep 22, 2011
  3. Marshall Anthony

    Marshall Anthony Well-Known Member

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    …..
     
    Last edited: Mar 6, 2012
  4. Achilles_

    Achilles_ Senior member

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    I will message them to get some ideas :)

    There is supposedly a re weaver here in Omaha, but to be honest I doubt he gets much clothing work of this caliber.
     
  5. gettoasty

    gettoasty Senior member

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    Eager to learn and get some pointers! This is my suit now following this OG post: Fit/Critique On Target Suit: Can I Fix This Via Tailor?

    Uniqlo Tasmanian wool suit

    Since my last alteration, I have done nothing else with the suit. After trying on the suit this time around, I have noticed several things that can be improved:

    (1) Hem the pants. I am considering a cuff (inspired by PG) with a leg opening of 7.5". I feel it will allow the pants to sit better

    (2) Take in the waist. I thought a belt would be an easy fix to my problem, I was wrong. There is bunching of material when I use a belt. I have also posted some photos without jacket on to illustrate how high I am wearing the pants to accommodate for the loose waist (and long inseam). The waist has not been altered before. It may also effect the thigh/crotch area (not sure about this)

    (3) I need to have the suit pressed!

    (4) I want to close the vents as they are doing something weird or see (3)

    (5) Button stance is that high. I took photo from afar from at least waist height.

    No tie in photo even though I planned on it (imagine maroon); I am not seasoned enough and was kind of in a hurry :(
    Shirt is MTM thanks to ModernTailor. At this time, I may consider taking in the waist some more OR wear an undershirt.
    Shoes are Allen-Edmonds "Clifton"

    This is my first suit, plan on wearing for the first time to a wedding come October. Other than that it was planned for use during interviews.

    Thanks!

    EDIT:
    Question but what can be done to make the pants look more straight instead of all the creasing? I think the fabric is not thick enough so it falls weirdly, can this be remedied?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Old action shot:
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Sep 22, 2011
  6. Marshall Anthony

    Marshall Anthony Well-Known Member

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    …...
     
    Last edited: Mar 6, 2012
  7. pseudonym

    pseudonym Senior member

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    I found this gray/light gray suit in my closet. This was apparently a suit for high school, and after losing some weight this past summer, I tried this on for the hell of it (tags are still included and all).

    I know 3-buttons and pleats are long gone, but I'm wondering what you guys think of it so I can use the suggestions as reference for a new suit. I'm on that broke college student budget and I'm eyeing a Uniqlo suit (<$200) for interviews, career fairs, etc.

    Let me know what you think. I'm open to getting criticized. After all, this was just a suit I tried on 10 minutes ago and have never worn. lol

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Thanks!

    PS - There are no vents on the back.
     
  8. FlyingMonkey

    FlyingMonkey Senior member

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    Thank-you for a superb thread. This is the kind of genuinely knowledgable advice that I joined Style Forum to find. I'm feeling like I am beginning to know exactly what to say to the tailor next time I get a suit made.
     
    1 person likes this.
  9. mossrockss

    mossrockss Senior member

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    Thanks, Despos. The shoulders fit perfectly and as you can see, there's no excessive extra material anywhere in the chest. I think this may be considered a drapey type cut, so it's fuller in the chest than the normal clean-chested jackets that I've got in my closet. I do think that maybe the sleeves are a bit full, though. Is having the sleeve slimmed down possible/worth it?
     
  10. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Despite your efforts to suppress the waist I thought the jacket looked boxy and thought a different silhouette might work better for you.
     
  11. mossrockss

    mossrockss Senior member

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    So this is where you could educate me, Despos. My tailor took it in in the side seams on the back. When I argued with him for an hour to take it in even more, I believe he took it from the center seam, and he told me that in order to keep the vent from flaring, he would "curve the vent so it won't look like it's flying out." So my understanding is, you can take the jacket's waist in from those two back seams and even the back center seam, but the front is untouched—hence what looks boxy in the front. Is that just a fact of life and therefore the solution is just to get something that fits more cleanly in the front? In other words, are there no alterations I could possibly make to this jacket to shape it a little more in the front? I feel like that's a dumb question, but I guess it's worth asking the expert :)
     
  12. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    Hi all, I am currently trying to get a morning coat at Brooks Brothers during their Friend and Family sale. But I run into this slight problem in terms of fit; the tail does not close properly. It seems to be a balance problem. What are my options?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  13. dufferin1

    dufferin1 Senior member

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    Here is mine. Is the cut simply wrong? Or is it more sizing to you guys?

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  14. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    These guys are in Chicago. www.withoutatrace.com
    Maybe you could email your pictures and get an estimate.
     
  15. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    [/SPOILER]

    Just have the trousers made shorter. don't narrow the leg opening. Won't look good with the size of your shoes.
     
  16. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    You will be better off with a new suit. This is not a good aesthetic for someone in college. Has a very dated look, especially the lapels and everything is the wrong size for you. You will get a better suit for the price you would pay to alter this.
     
  17. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Could be more specific if could see a before the alteration picture.
    If this suit is canvassed, the canvass is pushing outward on the front chest just below the armholes. It would help if this could be improved and then take in the front part on the seam that runs from the armhole down to the pocket. This would give the front parts some shape.

    Regarding the alterations you had done. If you had the waist reduced 1 1/2" on each side, I would have opened the side seams and taken 1" in at the waist on the front part and only 1/2" from the back part. This would give more expression to the jacket and create more definition to the waist. Would not take in the center back. When he did that it made the jacket fit closer to the body but didn't create more shape.

    I suggest trying different styles of jackets so you can see/learn how different silhouettes work with your body type. The cut of this jacket is somewhat generic and is not complimenting your build.

    Question for you. In the third picture a basket (?) appears on the wall that was not in the first two shots. Why & where did that come from?
     
    Last edited: Sep 23, 2011
  18. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The back is long. The way to correct this is to remove the sleeves, open the shoulder and shorten the back from the top of the jacket, recutting the shoulder line. Pin the back up across the back at the shoulder blades until the vent falls straight to determine how much to adjust the back part. If you do this, insist on a fitting before they cut off the extra cloth on the shoulders and before they finish the work.
     
  19. Perfect thread. Was going to get this tailored tomorrow. I apologize in advanced for the crappy pictures. Bad lighting and (dirty) mirror shots don't make for ideal reference photos but I tried not to cause my suit to be too uneven. I think someone took my tripod. :embar: Does the jacket seem long or is that simply my inexperience. I know I need to get the pants hemmed though, it's the suit alterations that I'm not sure about. (Oh, also, these are pretty cheap suits (H&M) that I needed quickly for a job. Eventually I'll grab a nice one (MTM possibly) but I didn't feel like spending a bunch on suits that I don't plan on needed very much for future use.)

    Thanks for any suggestions.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Sep 23, 2011
  20. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Just get the sleeve length, and trouser length right and you'll be fine.
     

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