The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    You will be better off with a new suit. This is not a good aesthetic for someone in college. Has a very dated look, especially the lapels and everything is the wrong size for you. You will get a better suit for the price you would pay to alter this.
     


  2. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Could be more specific if could see a before the alteration picture.
    If this suit is canvassed, the canvass is pushing outward on the front chest just below the armholes. It would help if this could be improved and then take in the front part on the seam that runs from the armhole down to the pocket. This would give the front parts some shape.

    Regarding the alterations you had done. If you had the waist reduced 1 1/2" on each side, I would have opened the side seams and taken 1" in at the waist on the front part and only 1/2" from the back part. This would give more expression to the jacket and create more definition to the waist. Would not take in the center back. When he did that it made the jacket fit closer to the body but didn't create more shape.

    I suggest trying different styles of jackets so you can see/learn how different silhouettes work with your body type. The cut of this jacket is somewhat generic and is not complimenting your build.

    Question for you. In the third picture a basket (?) appears on the wall that was not in the first two shots. Why & where did that come from?
     
    Last edited: Sep 23, 2011


  3. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The back is long. The way to correct this is to remove the sleeves, open the shoulder and shorten the back from the top of the jacket, recutting the shoulder line. Pin the back up across the back at the shoulder blades until the vent falls straight to determine how much to adjust the back part. If you do this, insist on a fitting before they cut off the extra cloth on the shoulders and before they finish the work.
     


  4. lesamourai

    lesamourai Senior member

    Perfect thread. Was going to get this tailored tomorrow. I apologize in advanced for the crappy pictures. Bad lighting and (dirty) mirror shots don't make for ideal reference photos but I tried not to cause my suit to be too uneven. I think someone took my tripod. :embar: Does the jacket seem long or is that simply my inexperience. I know I need to get the pants hemmed though, it's the suit alterations that I'm not sure about. (Oh, also, these are pretty cheap suits (H&M) that I needed quickly for a job. Eventually I'll grab a nice one (MTM possibly) but I didn't feel like spending a bunch on suits that I don't plan on needed very much for future use.)

    Thanks for any suggestions.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Sep 23, 2011


  5. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Just get the sleeve length, and trouser length right and you'll be fine.
     


  6. gettoasty

    gettoasty Senior member

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    Yes more and more I am realizing my taper makes me look like I have clown feet :embar:

    Going to have the pants hemmed and waist suppressed. Thanks,
     


  7. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    Sound's like a major operation. Not sure if the in-house BB tailor is willing to do the modification. :(

    Thank you very much for the advice!
     


  8. Intern100

    Intern100 New Member

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    I recognize that the pant legs are pretty short in comparism to the past (5-10 years ago).

    Is this the newest style in business dresses ?
     


  9. dks202

    dks202 Senior member

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    I didn't know they ever left.....:)
     


  10. emptym

    emptym Moderator Moderator

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    These are probably my best-fitting pants. But do you have any thoughts on room for improvement (other than the missing belt loops...)? Despos and others have discussed what causes the U-shaped wrinkles in the back, but I can't remember the cause. they're minor here, but I would love a refresher.

    [​IMG][​IMG]

    [​IMG][​IMG]

    Thanks guys!
     
    Last edited: Sep 24, 2011


  11. mossrockss

    mossrockss Senior member

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    Thanks for your insight. I'm not exactly sure what I'll do with this info…

    I have to laugh at your question. That's our outgoing mail pouch next to our front door in our flat. My wife took those photos and we had taken a bunch of stuff out of the frame after the first two pics, then I made her take the third but had started putting stuff back up. She said, "what about the mail pouch?" I said, "nobody will notice." :rotflmao:
     


  12. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Good one, seems people notice what you don't expect they will and miss the stuff you want them to see.

    Point of my explanation is to show there is more than one way to take in the waist/sides of a jacket and each will have it's own visual effect as a result. What I didn't know was if you went back to the tailor to have more taken in because you thought the jacket was too loose and wanted a closer fit or you wanted the waist to look more suppressed. Maybe this will help you communicate with your tailor what you want to achieve.
     


  13. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    yes you should have at least a bottom circumference of 17"
    when having the tailor do the fitting. wear your belt and cinch it as snug as you usually wear.
    move the excess cloth to the back, so that the tailor can see how much excess cloth must be removed.
    take a look at the trouser photo. see how much higher and wider the right hip is, thats because of the low right shoulder.
    that is causing the right vent to gap.
    that also means that the right inseam will be longer than the left.
     


  14. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Trousers look good. Not quite to my standards but close. :D I think this pair would do well with side straps and not loops because I don't like wearing belts with light colored trousers. Just a dark horizontal line around your waist. The slight wrinkling on the back part is so slight it is not worth mentioning.
    I can't figure why there is a second button beyond the point of the extension on the waistband. It's not like you would use it in any way. Would remove it.
    Do you think you will use the two front pockets in the waistband seam for anything?
     


  15. gettoasty

    gettoasty Senior member

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    thanks for pointing that out! will be going in tomorrow for the 2nd time now and will let them know this.

    just quick question, but suit pants should be worn higher at the waist compared to jeans at the hip? i have a low belly button so i would rather not cover it with my pants.
     


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