The Styleforum x Archibald Sneaker GMTO

[ArchibaldRoh]

I really have to say, it’s getting terribly frustrating to see the reaction of removing options because of a few anal retentive peoples OCD. It’s obviously your company so I understand the decisions in this area are yours, but fewer options aren’t going to make me a repeat customer.

A better solution in this case I would think would be to offer string color choices. If one wants to get upset about strings not perfectly matching anticato shoes, there’s probably not much one can do to make a person like that happy.

Decision made, speaking to Orlando about it today. We are going to make laces so we can control every aspect of it.

 

[Rewiag]

Already working with Adriano on new samples of the SF-01 v2, they should be ready very quickly (maybe 1/2 weeks?) so that we can send over a sample to you guys to test

not sure if there is a way to sign-up for this, but I would also be interested in testing. I'm especially interested in the soles (mainly inner).

 

[Journeyman]

As for the kangaroo, the complaints have been rather silly. Complaining about wrinkly kangaroo leather is quite foolish.

I completely agree. Even the Product shots of the Kangaroo Lorenzo loafer from Berluti shows creasing.

Absolutely.

Kangaroo leather is hard-wearing, but supple and soft and so it creases much more than, say, calf leather. It's simply one of the qualities of kangaroo leather.

RM Williams uses kangaroo leather for its elastic-sided boots and by the time you've worn them a few times, they look like you've had them for a couple of years - but they're extremely comfortable.

 

[ArchibaldRoh]

I'm sure you have yours by now, but I owe you some pics. Excuse my disheveled look, I have a busted wrist.
View attachment 1432196 View attachment 1432198

You know we have been so haggered and disappointed with what went wrong in the sf01 that it is only when I see a picture like this do I remember just what an outstanding shoe it is and despite what went wrong, so so much went right. Have a habit of not seeing things that way.

trying to get your coupons out today or tomorrow for v2

in the meantime, sizing document again for anyone who hasn’t filled it out.

SF-01 Size Comparables

docs.google.com

 

[flx]

As somebody with about 15 kangaroo hides in his living room, the idea of a perfectly smooth kangaroo leather shoe is laughable. These animals are not farmed, and live their lives in Australia’s not so gentle environment.

What are you doing with all those hides ? Are you trying to make a coat like Bufallo Bill ?

 

[boot_owl]

What are you doing with all those hides ? Are you trying to make a coat like Bufallo Bill ?

Some veg tanned ones for leather work, some white chrome tan seconds I got on a crazy deal from a local supplier. I'm talking about $3.50 USD a hide for the white

 

[ArchibaldRoh]

Okay so what I am getting from all of this is:
1. Fix the various issues that people feel like is a necessity for the main part (tongue gate, laces, etc.)
2. Keep everything else the same. If Common Projects can sell so many shoes with everyone saying it is amazing quality (even with chrome tanned, cardboard piece, etc.) why should we re-invent the wheel in places it isn't needed?
3. Profit
lol

1. Agreed

2. Disagree, though we made many improvements on the CP already using veg tan calf leather (even if the white had some chromium salts), the construction and how the upper is put together... the cardboard bit really annoyed me so we are trying a different flooring that is normally used for dress shoes in one of the samples. Using cork there is not an option for sneakers from a durability POV we explored it with Adriano yesterday as nails have to go through and hold and these shoes need to outlive the sole etc particularly given the upper is there to last a long, long time.

I just want to make sure we exhaust every potential avenue of improvement respecting timelines

3. Yes, hopefully we can and use the process for a lot more.

 

[Rewiag]

...the cardboard bit really annoyed me so we are trying a different flooring that is normally used for dress shoes in one of the samples. Using cork there is not an option for sneakers from a durability POV we explored it with Adriano yesterday as nails have to go through and hold and these shoes need to outlive the sole etc particularly given the upper is there to last a long, long time.

not sure if I understand it correctly, but from this i read that the reason cork is not an option is because it will NOT outlast the (margom) sole?

 

[ArchibaldRoh]

not sure if I understand it correctly, but from this i read that the reason cork is not an option is because it will NOT outlast the (margom) sole?

it is not an option to replace the fibreboard floor because for sneaker usage there is a tear risk with cork as a little flooring and once it tears, that’s it.

 

[Rewiag]

it is not an option to replace the fibreboard floor because for sneaker usage there is a tear risk with cork as a little flooring and once it tears, that’s it. That was bugging me,

Adriano is definitely an expert while im not, so i will accept his recommendation, but I fail to understand how would it tear inside the shoe (especially if it is properly sandwiched between two base layers of durable materials). In dress shoes, they always nail through the cork layer (sometimes with wooden pegs, which are quite wide and punch a bigger hole) while attaching the heel block, and the cork seems to be just fine. If the cork lasts at least as long as the margom outsole, then it should be fine: you just replace the cork when doing a resole.

i also raised the question how to handle the grid pattern of the margom sole:

It is a challenge as pouring cork directly on top of it is not really an option, as the grid pattern will indeed just tear it up after a while. Maybe keep the fiberboard (or leather) base just to hold the rest and put a cork layer on top of it to provide the extra comfort?

 

[XxLogo]

it is not an option to replace the fibreboard floor because for sneaker usage there is a tear risk with cork as a little flooring and once it tears, that’s it.

If you are interested in doing the cork, but don't want it to tear, why not do it almost like Birkenstocks where they use jute and I think glue to reinforce it, almost like using that cloth in the upper for integrity. Just a thought if you still want to go down that route

 

[CWV]

If you are looking to do it as in a quality shoe, felt could be another option.

 

[Spaghettimatt]

I cannot believe people are pushing for cork in a sneaker.

 

[mhip]

As somebody with about 15 kangaroo hides in his living room, the idea of a perfectly smooth kangaroo leather shoe is laughable. These animals are not farmed, and live their lives in Australia’s not so gentle environment.

I'd like to request the inner pouch for mine...

 

[XxLogo]

I cannot believe people are pushing for cork in a sneaker.

I don’t think we are pushing for it, just making suggestions. @ArchibaldRoh said he wanted to make it the best sneaker on the market. Can’t do that without suggestions