The Official-ish DC Thread

[smittycl]

All this talk about tailors, who do you all recommend for something with a bit more structure. The soft shoulder coats are nice but I tend to look better with more structure.

Steed does their version of the A&S cut.

 

[lordsuperb]

All this talk about tailors, who do you all recommend for something with a bit more structure. The soft shoulder coats are nice but I tend to look better with more structure.

William Field for someone local.

 

[Litigation Cures All]

As a poor law student, unlike you all, I will be stuck with Spier & Mackay for quite some time before I can explore what Saville Row has to offer. Though Spier & Mackay is certainly a pretty dam good brand to be stuck with!

 

[smittycl]

As a poor law student, unlike you all, I will be stuck with Spier & Mackay for quite some time before I can explore what Saville Row has to offer. Though Spier & Mackay is certainly a pretty dam good brand to be stuck with!

If you're an easy fit then there are simply amazing RTW options out there.

 

[Litigation Cures All]

Ah conflicting opinions, I love it!

Is this just a rude request? Or is the issue more that asking a MTM factory to leave something off their standard pattern more complicated than it seems?

I don't really care about the Milanese thing.

I second Will Field. I’ve had him do hand sewn lapel buttonholes on all my suits. They look beautiful.

 

[Ambulance Chaser]

I paid a trip to Sky Valet this morning to pick up a pair of shoes I brought in for resoling before the pandemic. I had a nice conversation with Hetom, who told me about several interesting developments. First, he’s going to stop carrying Alden, and all Alden shoes are now 20% off. He’s bringing in Paraboot, including the popular Michael model. And he’s now carrying Japanese sneakers:

And now for the really cool development: Sky has its own line of shoes. The first model is a three-quarter Dover-esque boot with hand-stitched apron and channeled soles:

The shoes are $850, which is a pretty good buy. I know that sounds ridiculous, but if they were Edward Green they would be several hundred dollars more. Hetom is thinking of what to do next, and is open to suggestions.

 

[hpreston]

I love Steed but the cut for their MTM doesn’t stand up to the NMWA model. I would stick with Carrara.

I appreciate this feedback.

All this talk about tailors, who do you all recommend for something with a bit more structure. The soft shoulder coats are nice but I tend to look better with more structure.

Field for local (as stated below)
Ring Jacket Model 1 (MTO or MTM only at The Armoury)
Armoury Model 101 (tailored by St Andrew’s for The Amroury

William Field for someone local.

Yep, this.

 

[mak1277]

William Field for someone local.

What would the damage be at Field for a suit? A sport coat? Just ballpark.

 

[Litigation Cures All]

What would the damage be at Field for a suit? A sport coat? Just ballpark.

Will starts at 4k for full bench made bespoke.
He also offers a MTM option which, if I recall correctly, is in the ballpark of around 2k--I may be wrong.

 

[smittycl]

I paid a trip to Sky Valet this morning to pick up a pair of shoes I brought in for resoling before the pandemic. I had a nice conversation with Hetom, who told me about several interesting developments. First, he’s going to stop carrying Alden, and all Alden shoes are now 20% off. He’s bringing in Paraboot, including the popular Michael model. And he’s now carrying Japanese sneakers:

View attachment 1599213

And now for the really cool development: Sky has its own line of shoes. The first model is a three-quarter Dover-esque boot with hand-stitched apron and channeled soles:
View attachment 1599220

View attachment 1599221

The shoes are $850, which is a pretty good buy. I know that sounds ridiculous, but if they were Edward Green they would be several hundred dollars more. Hetom is thinking of what to do next, and is open to suggestions.

I got a pair of C&J Chelsea boots from him last month. There's an Alden store just a few blocks away. Maybe it doesn't make sense for him to carry them? thanks for the update on the sneakers and Paraboot!

 

[Kangnamstyles]

I paid a trip to Sky Valet this morning to pick up a pair of shoes I brought in for resoling before the pandemic. I had a nice conversation with Hetom, who told me about several interesting developments. First, he’s going to stop carrying Alden, and all Alden shoes are now 20% off. He’s bringing in Paraboot, including the popular Michael model. And he’s now carrying Japanese sneakers:

View attachment 1599213

And now for the really cool development: Sky has its own line of shoes. The first model is a three-quarter Dover-esque boot with hand-stitched apron and channeled soles:
View attachment 1599220

View attachment 1599221

The shoes are $850, which is a pretty good buy. I know that sounds ridiculous, but if they were Edward Green they would be several hundred dollars more. Hetom is thinking of what to do next, and is open to suggestions.

Are they good year welted or hand welted for that $850?

 

[Ambulance Chaser]

Are they good year welted or hand welted for that $850?

I didn't ask. I assume Goodyear. Really pretty shoes in any event. Alas, I'm not in the market for any shoes, much less dress shoes.

 

[TheSuitBurnsBetter]

All this talk about tailors, who do you all recommend for something with a bit more structure. The soft shoulder coats are nice but I tend to look better with more structure.

I'm also less keen on the super soft shoulder. This is a suit I had Ezra Paul make a couple of years back that has a more structured, slightly padded shoulder. The canvassing is still pretty light but he has heavier options. The 3-piece came to around 2k iirc.

 

[TheSuitBurnsBetter]

I paid a trip to Sky Valet this morning to pick up a pair of shoes I brought in for resoling before the pandemic. I had a nice conversation with Hetom, who told me about several interesting developments. First, he’s going to stop carrying Alden, and all Alden shoes are now 20% off. He’s bringing in Paraboot, including the popular Michael model. And he’s now carrying Japanese sneakers:

View attachment 1599213

And now for the really cool development: Sky has its own line of shoes. The first model is a three-quarter Dover-esque boot with hand-stitched apron and channeled soles:
View attachment 1599220

View attachment 1599221

The shoes are $850, which is a pretty good buy. I know that sounds ridiculous, but if they were Edward Green they would be several hundred dollars more. Hetom is thinking of what to do next, and is open to suggestions.

It's weird that they decided to make their first model a leather-soled, split toe chukka. Like, who's the target audience for that style? Starting with a semi-brogue or something like that seems like it would be more broadly accessible.

 

[smittycl]

It's weird that they decided to make their first model a leather-soled, split toe chukka. Like, who's the target audience for that style? Starting with a semi-brogue or something like that seems like it would be more broadly accessible.

I’m curious to check them out. Not really interested in that model but maybe he will offer some other stuff.

I broke out my summer suit from Ezra Paul to wear this week when it warms up. Navy Minnis Fresco.