The (hopefully) definitive thread on NYC tailors

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by tgfny, Jun 20, 2005.

  1. tgfny

    tgfny Senior member

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    Edited with the groups reccomendations. Please make any suggestions to improve it.

    I propose that there are 3 levels of tailors for alterations and would love to know everone's favorite in all categories.

    Category 1) "Money is no object, I need my Anderson & Sheppard suit alterred and I don't fly to London commercially now that the Concorde is no more and my G-V is in the shop."
    Basically a tailor to whom you could trust anything. Doesn't have to be expensive, but most likely is.

    Raphael- recommended by several
    Logsdail 9 E 53rd St, New York, 10022 - (212) 752-5030
    Corvato 510 Madison Ave, New York, 10022 - (212) 980-4980
    Raphael (212) 888-6887

    Category 2) Value for money. All-around tailor that provides good value for basic things i.e. can sew button holes, but you might not trust him recutting pants.

    Wilfred's 18 W 23rd St, New York, 10010 - (212) 242-3030
    Bhambi 14 E 60th St, New York, 10022 - (212) 935-5379
    Alexis 242 E 77th St, New York, 10021 - (212) 717-9412
    Peppino 780 Lexington Ave, New York, 10021 - (212) 832-3844


    Category 3) "I'm not gonna pay a lot for this muffler." Can handle hems, cuffs and the basic things, but the best thing about the alterations is the price.

    Central Cleaners on E. 81st St. 212-249-8649 $10 for cuffs or hemming trousers.

    Any other suggestions would be appreciated.
     


  2. marc237

    marc237 Senior member

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    In category # 1, I would put Wilfred's, on 23rd street, between 5th and 6th Aveue (closer to 5th).

    In category # 2, I use the services of a Korean couple (do not remember name of shop at the moment) located on the north side of 23rd street between 7th and 8th Avenue. The store front focuses more on the fact that they do embroidery, but I have found their work good and inexpensive. I am not sure that I would trust recutting a garment, but they have been very good for hems, sleeves length, some suppresion, button holes, and repairing the occasional tear.

    In category # 3, I find a tailor who is located in a dry cleaners on Avenue "A" (east side) between 14th and 13th to be good. Prices are made up on spot and wildly inconsistent, but service is very good.
     


  3. Buster

    Buster Senior member

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    I'll concur with marc237 regarding Wilfred's. Even though for the price, you would expect a bit more knowledgeable staff. It usually takes me a few instances to get the pants/suit altered to my liking ( for example, with the last PS suit, first they shorten the length of the pants, and only then realized the pants need to be tapered, even though I asked them about it before).

    However, I do all my alterations there. I have failed to find candidates in categories 2 and 3 and it happened more than once that a pair of pants I took for alterations with the local tailr, find their way for another set of alterations with Wilfred.
     


  4. dah328

    dah328 Senior member

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    I'd categorize Wilfred's somewhere between 1 and 2. For me to trust them with my (imaginary) A&S suit, I have to trust their judgement and their attention to detail, both of which I find a bit lacking. My thrift store finds and jeans go to Wilfred's for alterations. My custom suits go back to the tailor (usually Chan) if alterations are required.

    dan
     


  5. dah328

    dah328 Senior member

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    I would mention that Raphael was suggested as an excellent source for alterations, but when I inquired, they were not interested in alterations for someone who was not already a customer.  That's a shame as I have a nice suit that requires some significant alterations (shortening jacket and recutting trousers) and I don't know if Wilfred's is up to it.

    dan
     


  6. marc237

    marc237 Senior member

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    I had Wilfred's do a fair amount of recutting of pants and jacket on one my Paul Stuart sale suits. As I indicated in a prior thread, it required asking them to correct/change a few things they had done. However, while there was a bit more give and take then I would have liked and I agree that I could not rely on their judgment as much as my own, I thought the end product was very good.

    All of this said, I have no doubt that there are better high-end tailors, I just do not have the level of suits and sports coats that would warrant the expenditure and other factors.
     


  7. dah328

    dah328 Senior member

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    I consider Wilfred's reasonably expensive, so I'm not convinced that a better tailor would necessarily cost more. Perhaps we'll get some more recommendations here.

    dan
     


  8. von Rothbart

    von Rothbart Senior member

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    Most of the category 1 candidates resides in 510 Madison or 22 E 53, such as Raphael only accept alternations from long-term clients. They are the best money could buy for alternations.

    If we exclude those tailors, I'd put Bhambi in that category. I'd say Bhambi is closer to category 1 than Wilfred. Bhambi does excellent hand-sewn button hole at $10/hole while Wilfred machine-sewn is $5/hole.

    I've heard many good things about Alexis (sp?), a custom tailor also accepts alternation jobs, on E 77 St. I haven't tried him but I'd like give him a try.
     


  9. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    I think Raphael will accept alterations from non-bespoke clients. If you're willing to pay top dollar, or have complex alterations, or both, it's at least worth asking him. He can do things that alterations tailors simply can't, or wouldn't dare trying.
     


  10. tgfny

    tgfny Senior member

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    I'm gonna give Alexis a try this afternoon, since he's in my hood. Has anyone had experience with him?
     


  11. Lint Brush

    Lint Brush Senior member

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    He does good work (he outsources the buttonholes) but stop at the ATM first. He altered a Brioni suit for me that came out well.
     


  12. von Rothbart

    von Rothbart Senior member

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    How about Alexis' pricing?
     


  13. caledoniasoul2

    caledoniasoul2 Well-Known Member

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    I have had pretty good exp. with alexis.....He drop the collar on a brioni suit and did it well and timely. Goo alterations on pants as wee, semi reasonable prices.  I am even trying a custom suit .....which should be ready in the next month.  He uses geneva for his custom shirts.

    Note he is very very quirky guy, and his personality changes quickly.  but so far im been pretty happy.

    Leung's on lex used to be great also but i hear he has retired and sold the shop to somone else. I cant confirm this....

    Im curious about GILBERTO DESIGNS....anyone used them for custom/bespoke or alterations....they are mentioned on andy's forum...but the search function doesnt work....
     


  14. tgfny

    tgfny Senior member

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    I just took in 3 suits ($10 a hand sewn button hole,) 5 pants ($18 to finish them) to Alexis Custom Tailor. Supposed to be ready at the end of this week, start of next.
     


  15. caledoniasoul2

    caledoniasoul2 Well-Known Member

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    tgny

    took to "them"' is who ? thanks
     


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