Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Silk, Apr 6, 2007.
Doesn't sound like Chan. Did Patrick assist you in the fittings?
As far as I know, he will be, so that's good to know.
No, just at the initial intake, and only after I insisted seeing him which was more than a little awkward and unpleasant. The suit's nice don't get me wrong, but not good value for the money and only worthwhile if you're in HK or have a history with them, in my opinion.
It sounds like they've grown too big too fast.
Chan will be stopping in my city in a few months as part of their Spring 2014 tour. I was quoted $1660 for their entry level two-piece suit made with VBC 140's.
I've seen members indicate that their first Chan suits were 110's and 120's. What's the general price for those suits?
^Chan's prices for VBC 110 are about $75 or $100 less than for VBC 140. To show you how quickly their prices have risen, the VBC 110 suit I ordered on the summer 2010 tour was $1,170. A VBC 140 suit I ordered in the fall of 2011 was about $1370. I believe much of this increase is due to rapidly increasing rents and wages in HK, as well as fabric costs--not mere greed on the part of Chan.
I would have to question the notion that "Chan got too big too fast." They have been one of HK's top tailoring firms for many years, well before the ascendancy of Patrick Chu. I met Patrick on his first US tour in November 2004, which coincided with my first dealings with Chan--a capital fellow, to be sure.
You forgot that in this 10years time, how many good tailors retired, and actually it has no fill up for tailors ( the real coat makers) in HK.
You mean good tailors.
Yes, I mean good tailors.
I've got my first fitting at Dream Bespoke on Saturday. Two piece suit in navy Harrisons Frontier, house style, nothing fancy. I have read various primers on the various things that go to make up a properly tailored suit and as a newbie I accept that I'm largely relying on the tailor to spot any problems. Is there anything in particular that I should be looking for at this stage? I'm sure this must've been covered before somewhere - if so, just give me the link.
Thanks for this. Can I ask a dumb question - can you turn up to one of these places with something that needs alteration and get them to look at you wearing it and tell you what needs altering? Or do you have to go in with specific instructions e.g. take 2 cm off each sleeve?
They should offer you their advice - they will cut the legs three inches shorter if you ask I am sure but normally the provision of advice is preferable. Changing rooms should be available so that you can leave the garment having discussed and determined what alterations are to be done. Those that do not have this facility will be working for shops where the decisions are taken in the shops and they are merely carrying out the work.
I've been having suits made by Chan since 2006. I've been more pleased with the attention to detail and consistency in recent years than when I started using them--with one exception: two years ago, I received a pair of pants with one set of forward pleats and one reversed. That should never have gone out the door. Otherwise, my last few suits, both those ordered on tour and those for which I've been in Hong Kong to have fittings, have been impeccable. As far as attention from Patrick, it can be variable. My last two meetings were great, with Patrick taking a lot of time first at the ordering stage and then at the fitting. Perhaps this was because I was ordering my first DB. In any case it was appreciated. Other times, attentiveness has been lacking.
One thing I will say about Patrick that might be a negative for a first time bespoke customer is that he seems willing to allow you to make poor choices if you desire. If Yao provides more guidance, that might be preferable. Other Chan negatives are no CMT, ever lengthening delivery times and ever escalating prices. If Chan didn't have my pattern so well dialed in, I might by now have switched to a local tailor whose premium over Chan has been much reduced over the years.
By the way, I think those Yao pants look great. Skinny pants on guys with thick thighs do not look good.
I've tried both approaches, lean towards the former, and have had varying success with both. I think you should be prepared to take things back for another attempt if (for example) taking off 2 cm was too much or the alterationist's suggestion was too little. These places are fairly modest operations with a curtained off area to change behind.
I just met with Patrick and Arnold of WW Chan today in Houston. I wanted to get a fitting in June, since I plan to up my exercise regimen and am a little worried about my dimensions changing. They said it would be an extra $200 and I'd have to pay for shipping, so I opted not to do it. I hope my dimensions don't change too much.
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