The Hong Kong Tailors Thread

[Isolation]

Anyone got suits made from Moda? I have their shirts and looking to get suits but can't find any fit pics on here.

 

[GBR]

Why, if you cannot find them on here, does that not tell you something? Suggest avoid and go to a tailor who is known and recommended here.

 

[Isolation]

They few pictures I saw were okay, and I liked their shirts. They are quite new, so I think it's entirely reasonable they are good but haven't gained much of a reputation. With all the bad tailors you have examples of bad fits and horror stories, and they aren't just unheard of, so I wouldn't say this is necessarily a sign they are bad.

If no one has heard anything bad from them I'm willing to be the Guinea pig and post my results here if you guys promise to give me feedback on it. How's that?

 

[TheTukker]

Is this the Moda you are referring to?

 

[Isolation]

Yeah. The only review on suits I could see is semi negative but from an online MTM guy not bespoke, so it could be a communication issue and I think not necessarily telling of the quality I think?

 

[GBR]



They few pictures I saw were okay, and I liked their shirts. They are quite new, so I think it's entirely reasonable they are good but haven't gained much of a reputation. With all the bad tailors you have examples of bad fits and horror stories, and they aren't just unheard of, so I wouldn't say this is necessarily a sign they are bad.

If no one has heard anything bad from them I'm willing to be the Guinea pig and post my results here if you guys promise to give me feedback on it. How's that?

You'll get comments but you must be prepared for adverse comment if appropriate - standards can be high here. How's that?

 

[Isolation]

That's how I'd like it. My eye for fit is not as keen as I'd like as I've only gotten into the forum relatively recently, so I'd be happy to get more critical feedback as it were.

 

[GBR]



That's how I'd like it. My eye for fit is not as keen as I'd like as I've only gotten into the forum relatively recently, so I'd be happy to get more critical feedback as it were.

I assume that you arte talking of a suit in which case try to gather as many views as possible, wearing shoes and shirt essential!

Front, sides rear view with coat (all full body to see the trousers fit) , rear and front without coat (ditto on full body) and inside of coat to see the detail and care of the tailors' work.

 

[Isolation]

I was going to get a 3 piece Charcoal suit from Chan on my next trip but by now I'm fully sold on the idea of getting a glen plaid, especially as I already have got (mistakenly perhaps) a black suit Chan suit and I think they fulfil much the same function anyway, not to mention my work environment is not that formal, so I don't really need more conservative outfits.


(^something like this, thoughts? Or should I go with the charcoal suit, because I know how SF is like, everyone should have a charcoal and navy suit to start, and I have neither, just a black one.)

I'm thinking of getting it with a pagoda shoulder, which if I understand correctly is a soft but roped shoulder right? Is this something Chan will do well, and would it be appropriate for a glen check slightly more casual suit? I tend to like my suits to have a somewhat more modern/tapered cut.

Also, do you think peak lapels on a 2 buttons glen plaid would be okay? I recall reading somewhere peak lapels should be reserved for 1 button, double breasted suits, and tuxedos, but I think it could work here?

When it's slightly warmer I'll get pictures taken of my linen suit I had made by Excellent tailor, and maybe some of my other Sin suits.

By the way, what material/pattern is this? Flannel? I'm really bad with suiting materials.

 

[AdamWill]

shoulder style is a personal preference / 'best for your body' thing, really, it's not particularly related to casualness or material. I always get rope shoulders because I have incredibly slumped shoulders, for e.g., and the roping helps cover this up a bit.

nothing wrong with a peak lapel two button jacket. peaks are a slightly more imposing style and can communicate formality, but it's always been fine to wear them on pretty much any jacket if it's a look you like. the infamous 'Men in Style' book of 30s/40s looks has a peak lapelled, single breasted, two buttoned plaid suit on pages 48-49, I happen to notice. (and another peak lapel, two button SB suit on 51, and another on 54.) I'd say you'd be on entirely solid ground. just be aware that SF tends to recommend getting a few solid basics first simply because they give you more flexibility; it gets a bit trickier to match shirt and tie to a patterned suit, so you can't wear it in quite as many different ways as a solid one, and there are a few situations in which you might possibly feel a patterned suit per se wouldn't be appropriate. but don't let that discourage you if you think your black one can cover any such situations, and you really like the glen plaid plan!

 

[Isolation]

Yeah, thanks. I really look forward to my trip back to HK and have already got a long list of things I want to get as I don't want to waste the opportunity. I've been browsing the forums and increasing my knowledge on style in general since my first bespoke experience, so I can't wait, really.

I already have a few solid suits (albeit more casual colors aside from a light gray one in 1 button peak lapels, and others in french blue, cobalt, burgundy), so I want to get into some more patterns. I definitely like the look of the glen plaid, and I hear it's SF approved anyway. I guess I'll get it slightly roped, and see if I like it. And if I don't, eh, I'll go back to natural shoulders.

I'm going to get some more linen pieces too for warmer weather, and I think I want to get them unlined. Would it be a problem with the tailors in HK? There isn't too much information on the subject that I could find. There's people say it's less durable, but more breathable etc etc, or that it might be harder/more expensive to make, but it's all on very generic and vague terms as if all of the comments are second hand, not much in terms of detailed pictures and reports on various experiences and so on. I don't even know if it'd have an effect on how it drapes and so on, I swear there are conflicting reports on that.

A year ago the idea of having seasonal suits seem slightly redundant to me, but now I can't wait to expand my wardrobe.

 

[AdamWill]

Haven't had anything made unlined myself. I had a tropical worsted suit made semi-lined, which I'm happy with - but I tend to a very structured, old-fashioned look anyway, I'm not one of the super-soft, unstructured, Italian school folks . I find the half-lined linen cool enough, but it's going to vary a lot depending on exactly how hot/humid conditions you're planning to wear it in, your own tolerance for heat and so on.

I'd be surprised if someone with Chan's reputation couldn't knock out an unlined linen jacket, but I've no personal experience with Chan.

 

[Isolation]

I'm sure Chan can but I'm a bit too much of a cheapskate to get all my suits made from Chan. I've had some decent suits made by low-mid range tailors that I've posted pictures of, and since I don't have as many opportunities to wear linen, I thought I'd start with lower end tailors.

As good as Chan's suits are, it's still a healthy chunk of money for someone my age and what not, and maybe I haven't developed as refined a taste yet but I think the other suit makers make some very acceptable garments. Well we'll find out when I'm back in HK I guess.

On a side note, I'm surprised linen/cotton materials aren't use as much by HK tailors. I would have thought it much more appropriate as it can get very humid. Even well into fall, it's sometimes difficult to wear a suit because it gets so stuffy. The UK is the exact opposite almost it seems.

 

[AdamWill]

From what I know of HK itself, it's a very split market: if you *have* to wear a suit then it's probably because you working in the finance sector or a related business, which is still very much UK-dominated and conservative, and you just don't show up to work in a linen or cotton suit. You try and get away with tropical worsted, or you show up in a regular wool suit and you sweat. If you don't *have* to wear a suit, you probably don't wear one, period. HK particularly in summer is just too damn hot and humid for anyone to be really comfortable in even a featherweight unlined linen suit, so you just don't see a lot of people wearing them because they *want* to. When I was there in summer I spent basically the entire two weeks in shorts and a sleeveless t-shirt, fashion police be damned. And of course, a lot of the HK tailors' business is not actually made to be worn in HK.

I use a mid-range HK tailor too (not one that's been mentioned in this thread). He doesn't do quarter-lined (I did ask), but I haven't asked about unlined as it's not something I'm interested in. I'd be surprised if you can't find one who'll do it for you, though. (My tailor did make me a half-lined cream linen sport coat as well as the suit, and it's one of my favourite jackets).

 

[Isolation]

Which tailor is that? I've used Excellent Tailor and Simpson Sin.

Yeah I agree with what you said. I walk around in a sports coat with jeans and people comment on me wearing a suit. Of course the word for suit in Chinese isn't "suit" but "western attire" so they aren't being incorrect, but still.

That said I've had the same comments even in the UK so I guess people reacting to more formal dress is not specifically a Hong Kong problem.