Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by musicguy, Jun 20, 2011.
Are you going to rotate the sleeve head? Might reduce the wrinkling.
I thought I would share my initial thoughts on the classic black tuxedo and get a bit of feedback on the fit. The tuxedo is interesting because it is probably the most recommended item in the SuSu store (at least on forums like this), but it's almost impossible to find any information on what it looks like in the wild.
I ordered two - one in my normal size of 36R, one in 34R. I didn't do this because I'm into the tight, cropped look, but because the "product measurements" on the SuSu site are waaay bigger than what I would expect (e.g. 18+ inch shoulders and 30+ inch length on a 36R). Well, I never even tried on the 34R because the site measurements are clearly wrong and the sizing seems within the realm of what I would normally expect for this size.
As for the details, it's almost exactly what I wanted - silk grosgrain, big peak lapels, moderately structured shoulders, one button, jetted pockets, etc. I would have preferred a midnight navy, but I'm willing to go without - in my mind, midnight navy sounds good on paper but most examples I see of it are not great (way too blue and conspicuous).
Initial thoughts: button stance was not as high as I worried it might be, which is great. Not super low, but certainly lower than my other SuSu things. Fabric is pretty nondescript - black worsted, doesn't feel like anything special, but that's fine. VBC S110s, I think. Grosgrain details look good.
Front looks decent. Sleeves need about +1/2". Waist is about right. Jacket length is about right (don't use my arms as a reference, since they're super long). Maybe a bit of extra room in the chest, but I'm not that concerned (if it were bespoke I would just call it "drape").
The back is pretty messy. Some of this is due to the fact that the vents are still sewn closed, but it's still pretty rough. Pants are also still unhemmed, but there are some problems on the back of the legs. Thoughts?
Shoulders fit fairly well, but there's some amount of rippling behind on the sleeve back. Sleeve pitch problems?
Overall, it seems like a fair starting point, especially considering how hard it is to find an inexpensive tux with all the right details. The tux used to be $469, and for that price I would be all for it (and willing to go in for some heavy alterations), but the new price of $569 makes me think a bit more seriously about it. Here's the thing: I can get a MTM suit from a local guy (a guy I have used before and have some confidence in) for about $750-800. I would use the same detailing more or less, but with a midnight navy (if they have a decent one), and would expect the fit to be better. That's more than I would like to spend, but once I start adding up alteration costs for the one above, it becomes a close call. I do like the SuSu one, but it needs some help. And it should go without saying that these pictures are pretty harsh and make it look worse than it would were I moving around or not standing like a robot. Any thoughts are appreciated.
Oh, for reference - here's me in a 36R Havana last year (in much nicer lighting).
brillopad, it's a shame the back of that tux is such a mess, because that jacket looks damn good from the front. Love the lapels. But if it were me, I'd fork over the extra $$ for the MTM, even if it means pinching pennies elsewhere for a while. A good tux is something you should have for decades, if not a lifetime. Might as well get it as close to perfect as possible and never worry about any fit issues (which is the last thing I'd want to be thinking about when getting ready for an event that requires black tie). Being able to get it in midnight navy would be a big plus for me as well.
^ I say all that as someone who has never owned a tux, and probably won't for the foreseeable future. No need. Maybe one day...
Brillopad, I wonder if just letting out the back waist a smidge would help the drape. Shouldn't be too costly of a fix.
did you post this in the tailor feedback thread?
Brillopad, love the tux! In fact, I think it is a bit coincidential because I intend to order the same tux later this week for my wedding this summer, and as you said, there isn't a whole lot of reviews or critics available on the web about it!
Such a shame about the back, but in the same time, I think that it wouldn't look so bad once the vent are let open. The front fits truly great though.
And as you said, the robot pose is something that doesn't represent the reality at all. Because we all strive for the perfect drape, uncrumpled look but when you start living in your suit (ex.: not standing still like a robot), it will automaticaly look different.
Thanks for the feedback. I'm fairly new to more "advanced" alterations like working on the back, but my hunch was that letting it out a touch might be the ticket (and opening the vents, of course). I will head over to the Tailor thread and see what they have to say. Thanks.
I might if my tailor knows how. I live in a relatively small town, so we're not spoiled for tailors here.
^^^^ This looks fantastic.
Thanks. No alterations - I got lucky. If the button stance and jacket length were a touch lower I would have a bunch of them.
Agreed, the buttoning stance of my Havana jacket is starting to bother me more and more every time I wear it. I hardly ever wear it buttoned because of this.
I am still living in the blissful ignorance of knowing nothing about button stance. Havana 36R rules!
Just popped in to suit supply on Madison ave. Definitely worth a stop!! Really fell for the solid black sienna suit, like everything about it and not ball-crushing expensive.
Ankle on sienna size 38r suit was 8" or so, btw, very reasonable/ not skinny girl pants, pleasantly surprised!
Oh, and for my fellow San Franciscians - I noticed on SS's twitter today that they said the SF store is going to open in Fall '14. Looks like more delays, since it was originally January, then March, then July, now "Fall" 2014.
Same thing happened for their Toronto store opening. Fall 2013, late fall 2013, January 2013, and it really opened it's doors around mid-March.
Separate names with a comma.