SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread

[Rhodia]

I remember asking Rick if they could make me a belted raglan sleeve DB overcoat with the kind of collar that is utilised on the Ulster last FW. I have this one from another maker and wanted to model a Spier version based on it.
View attachment 2081563 View attachment 2081565

Rick said that they didn't have any blueprint for such a model.

However, he seems to have worked on once secretly. Soon available on the site


The belt doesn't seem to cut through the middle of the hip pockets anymore like precious Balmacaans. Although, the button placement seems to be too low, no? Is this a feat or a flaw for this type of overcoat model?

It seems that the advantage of the lower buttoning point is that it helps create the long (and I think, pretty damn good looking) sweeping lapel line.

In SM's picture on IG, the coat still closes nicely across the chest. Do you have an opinion on the Wool/Cash cloth SM is using here, Don?

 

[capablebedroom]

Sorry for another polo coat question, but do people think going two sizes up in the polo coat be excessive? I take 42R sport coats & suit jackets, and I want a loose fit (see below). I'm worried the 44 might be too tight (with a 47.6 chest, according to the website). The 46 would give a inch 49.2 chest. I'd need the sleeves taken up at least an inch.

 

[Zaxxon8]

Sorry for another polo/Ulster coat question, but do people think going two sizes up in the polo coat be excessive? I take 42R sport coats & suit jackets, and I want a loose fit (see below). I'm worried the 44 might be too tight (with a 47.6 chest, according to the website). The 46 would give a inch 49.2 chest. I'd need the sleeves taken up at least an inch.

According to SM, all of their measurements on the fit guide for the polo coats and the ulsters are accurate. I think an Ulster is somewhere around 1.5 sizes bigger than the same size polo. That may not be true in sleeve and hem length though, so I highly recommend checking those guides out very carefully.

 

[capablebedroom]

According to SM, all of their measurements on the fit guide for the polo coats and the ulsters are accurate. I think an Ulster is somewhere around 1.5 sizes bigger than the same size polo. That may not be true in sleeve and hem length though, so I highly recommend checking those guides out very carefully.

Yes, sorry, I was specifically asking about the polo, whose measurements I quoted, as opposed to the Ulster.

 

[Zaxxon8]

Yes, sorry, I was specifically asking about the polo, whose measurements I quoted, as opposed to the Ulster.

Yeah, so if you want to buy a polo to fit more like an Ulster... You'll probably just have to play a game with getting the least costly part of the fit to be correct, and tailoring the rest, because it's not an exact one to one two sizes up kind of deal

 

[DapperPhilly]

Cross thread from HOF

New Rust w/s/l DB

 

[alkydrinker]

All very odd, because the inseam length options change when you specify the cuff height, which indicated to me they want you to measure from the top of the cuff.

Never thought of it, tbh. If this was the case, all my trousers would be 2" too short, which they're not. Obviously. Just write in the notes section the desired inseam measured from the crotch seam to the bottom including the cuff.

The reason that longer inseam options disappear when you specify that you want cuffs is because the cuff requires pant fabric to create so that the longer inseams are not possible. Of course a taller cuff requires even more fabric than a smaller cuff.

I think S&Ms pants are made with a 36 or 38 total inseam when unfinished from the factory...there is only so much fabric to work with. I realize that you are doing custom, but they may still have to work within their standard limitations with regard to max length.

Your specified inseam measurement should always be the entire desired inseam length from crotch seam to the bottom of the leg, regardless of if you specify cuffs or not. If you are extremely tall with a long inseam, you may need to forgo cuffs to get the inseam that you need.

 

[7_rocket]

Gents,
I went into the store to get some alterations done on a new suit. I told them that there are many complaints and concerns online about customer service etc. Here is what I was told

The contact info on their website is for online (website) stuff only

For in person aka local people

The contact info for the Mississauga store is

Email - [email protected] - Even though the physical store is in Mississauga, Toronto sounded better than Mississauga. To be fair, I see their point.
Phone - 905 670 3388 ext 209 - I was told they will answer this line locally

When I emailed about getting a couple items to be shipped in Store to the [email protected] address, I did not get a reply so I asked why? There are either 1 or 2 CS reps and they are behind currently. So I was given the [email protected] to email for anything that needs to be in store

Online and in-store inventory are seperate. That is all I know about it. I even said why don't they put a note on the website about online and in-store having different emails blah blah. I didn't get an answer.

That's all I know.

 

[WoolyLamb]

Gents,
I went into the store to get some alterations done on a new suit. I told them that there are many complaints and concerns online about customer service etc. Here is what I was told

The contact info on their website is for online (website) stuff only

View attachment 2082975

For in person aka local people

The contact info for the Mississauga store is

Email - [email protected] - Even though the physical store is in Mississauga, Toronto sounded better than Mississauga. To be fair, I see their point.
Phone - 905 670 3388 ext 209 - I was told they will answer this line locally

When I emailed about getting a couple items to be shipped in Store to the [email protected] address, I did not get a reply so I asked why? There are either 1 or 2 CS reps and they are behind currently. So I was given the [email protected] to email for anything that needs to be in store

Online and in-store inventory are seperate. That is all I know about it. I even said why don't they put a note on the website about online and in-store having different emails blah blah. I didn't get an answer.

That's all I know.

Honestly I have seen this before… small business grows rapidly and they should expand and start thinking like a bigger business. Some do and the owners get the right guidance and people in to execute. Others are handicapped in this rapid transition due leadership, lack of vision, stubbornness. Some eventually get with the program and survive. Others lose their focus/their niche and eventually just go out all together. Hope S&M don’t go the latter.

 

[7_rocket]

Someone asked about the fit of the Shetland sweaters. I am a size large in their regular crew neck but in their Shetland I am a size Medium. So the size chart is correct.

I am 5'9 and 168lbs with a 39.5 chest. Hopefully bang on 40 soon

 

[7_rocket]

Honestly I have seen this before… small business grows rapidly and they should expand and start thinking like a bigger business. Some do and the owners get the right guidance and people in to execute. Others are handicapped in this rapid transition due leadership, lack of vision, stubbornness. Some eventually get with the program and survive. Others lose their focus/their niche and eventually just go out all together. Hope S&M don’t go the latter.

Makes sense. I just emailed the local store and I got a reply rapidly so looks like the email works. I am just a customer of Rick for many years as you guys. I want the brand to flourish and work out their issues

 

[WoolyLamb]

Makes sense. I just emailed the local store and I got a reply rapidly so looks like the email works. I am just a customer of Rick for many years as you guys. I want the brand to flourish and work out their issues

I think we all do. Covid has thrown a big wrench for all in the classic menswear industry. So i can understand not knowing what do to and plan for.

 

[Blondie87]

Has anyone had any MTO deliveries recently? I had a suit made and it was sent to me directly from China, the past MTO sportcoats I’ve had made went to Spier first to check and then was sent to me. Everything seems fine with the suit but since it came directly to me I couldn’t have UPS hold it for me at a different location which caused a little pain since I was away from home. Either way just wanted to see if they’ve changed things with how MTO gets delivered.

 

[DonRaphael]

Has anyone had any MTO deliveries recently? I had a suit made and it was sent to me directly from China, the past MTO sportcoats I’ve had made went to Spier first to check and then was sent to me. Everything seems fine with the suit but since it came directly to me I couldn’t have UPS hold it for me at a different location which caused a little pain since I was away from home. Either way just wanted to see if they’ve changed things with how MTO gets delivered.

If it came directly from the factory, there should be a paper in the inside pocket of the jacket stating all details and eventual deviations so you're able to check for yourself.

 

[nqtri]

Does anyone have the Minnis Dark Navy hopsack neo SC? Wondering how dark the navy is. From the sound of it, can it work as a separate SC?

Still deciding between that and the Filarte navy hopsack neo SC. Filarte is cheaper but from what I read here, they're not so good?