Recent purchases - Part II

[g transistor]

Vis 101 ita suede

 

[Caveat]

That is great.

 

[kmert]

To be fair, that doesn't change the fact that TB's suit jackets also, as you put it, end "right in the middle of your asscheek":

https://www.ssense.com/en-us/men/product/thom-browne/grey-classic-plaid-blazer/130803

No. Model is 6ft 4" tall, so any OTR blazer/jacket will look short on him.

 

[il_colonnello]



No. Model is 6ft 4" tall, so any OTR blazer/jacket will look short on him.

We seem to be going in circles with this.

Yes, that model is tall, as most models tend to be. So maybe one thing we can all agree on is that fashion models tend to be taller (and less fat) than the general population, and clothes designers - although this is my speculation - are probably aware of that when they create patterns for OTR anything (including, but not limited to, suits and blazers).

Having said that, have you looked at the picture of that TB suit from the back? How short do you expect anyone IRL to be for that jacket to have a chance of covering the wearer's ass? 5ft 5", maybe? That's not your average dude either, is it? My point was directed at @0JSIMPS0N (whose opinions I usually appreciate; he has a way of wording them sometimes that exasperates people but he's one of the few posters in WAYWT with a sharp eye for what works and what doesn't, as opposed to the droves of sheep who thumb everything that ticks the approved names): If like me you don't like short suits/blazers, what does it matter if it's by design or because the wearer happens to be too tall to wear OTR? The effect is always the same, a jacket that doesn't cover your ass.

 

[ppllzz]



We seem to be going in circles with this.

Yes, that model is tall, as most models tend to be. So maybe one thing we can all agree on is that fashion models tend to be taller (and less fat) than the general population, and clothes designers - although this is my speculation - are probably aware of that when they create patterns for OTR anything (including, but not limited to, suits and blazers).

Having said that, have you looked at the picture of that TB suit from the back? How short do you expect anyone IRL to be for that jacket to have a chance of covering the wearer's ass? 5ft 5", maybe? That's not your average dude either, is it? My point was directed at @0JSIMPS0N (whose opinions I usually appreciate; he has a way of wording them sometimes that exasperates people but he's one of the few posters in WAYWT with a sharp eye for what works and what doesn't, as opposed to the droves of sheep who thumb everything that ticks the approved names): If like me you don't like short suits/blazers, what does it matter if it's by design or because the wearer happens to be too tall to wear OTR? The effect is always the same, a jacket that doesn't cover your ass.

the margiela model looks pretty tall. i don't think it would look like that on someone less tall.

 

[Bam!ChairDance]

Just got off the phone with a Margiela rep. The model is 4'9", one of the shortest in the business, actually. They hired him as part of a new French initiative to diversify the industry. Hopefully that clarifies a few things.

 

[kmert]

How short do you expect anyone IRL to be for that jacket to have a chance of covering the wearer's ass? 5ft 5", maybe? That's not your average dude either, is it?

I have 3 TB blazers, all in sz 2, they measure just under 30" in length, and do a vdecent job of covering what needs to be covered. I'm 6ft 2" btw, I guess that makes a difference in "coverage", about 3inches more or less

 

[il_colonnello]



I have 3 TB blazers, all in sz 2, they measure just under 30" in length, and do a vdecent job of covering what needs to be covered. I'm 6ft 2" btw, I guess that makes a difference in "coverage", about 3inches more or less  

You know, I'd be curious to see that actually (non-ironic). I could imagine that 6ft2" and 30" BOC might just get you into CM-approved territory.

However, the TB suit on ssense I linked to is clearly not 30" BOC - not in any size. In fact, the model appears to be wearing a size 3 according to the info in the size chart! If that's the back (and sleeve!) length you get out of a size 3, I don't want to see what that suit looks like on even an average-height guy who needs one of the smaller sizes...

 

[kmert]

^mine are the same model, the "classic suit/blazer" as it is labelled. I measured with the collar included, so should be about 28-28.5" without, not vdifferent from the ssense one. And no, its not CM territory, but that is not what I intend it to be, and that's why we're in SW&D right?

 

[il_colonnello]

fair enough

I guess I still have my CM sensibilities turned on from my previous life..

 

[kmert]

Its all good,

BTW, here's a much more decent TB fit, sz 2 on a 6ft 2" dude:
http://www.farfetch.com/de/shopping...item-10988023.aspx?storeid=9628&ffref=lp_49_3_

IMHO much less extreme than the ssense one, and also the Margiela of a few pages back

 

[il_colonnello]

You know @kmert, the back length of ^that suit I could live with, I guess. I'm 6ft3" myself and still have a few OTR jackets that probably sit like that on me. It's the sleeve length where I get paranoid. Do you actually wear your sleeves like that? The only reason that Farfetch model you linked to doesn't look totally ridiculous to me is because the shirt sleeves are equally waaaay too short. If that model was wearing anywhere near his "correct" (in inverted commas because I'm aware that's a question of definition) shirt sleeve length, he'd be showing the whole cuffs, just standing with his arms hanging down. All SW&D vs CM considerations aside, that would be a big no-no for me. It's the length of sleeves more than anything that to me makes a lot of tall men look as if they are wearing something they've grown out of. Not flattering.

 

[kmert]

Indeed, sleeves fit short. Probably the shirt sleeves are longer, but were pulled up to show the right cuff length. It never bothered me, that is maybe until now because you were so kind to point this out

Sizing up could resolve something, but will force you into costly alterations to remove the boxy-ness. That is also the problem of the ssense fit, were they clearly sized up to compensate his length, while his chest and shoulder size probably allowed for a sz 2 (or maybe a 1). Probably the TB runway look scared them I dont know. Also Farfetch has TB fits with this problem, were they sized up to get a "classic" fit.

 

[Meis]

Gellers

Suede Cons

TS(S) floral

Barena linen

Ervell suede

 

[ribkin]