Proper Cloth - Official Affiliate Thread

[cuponoodles]

Can anyone tell me if it’s possible to make a custom shirt that only has a flap pocket on the left-hand side? I have always appreciated that feature of J Press shirts.

It’s possible to order with two rounded flaps on the site but one is not an option. I feel like this should be an easy enough request.

I emailed customer support but I am not sure if they understood my request.

I asked this a few years ago and at the time they could not. Not sure if that's changed, though.

 

[cuponoodles]

Ok, I just have to post this here now. And I am hoping to be constructive. I've mentioned before how I'm a customer since 2015 having bought 60-70 shirts by this point. I do not want to switch or stop buying Proper Cloth shirts.

But the measurement issue is becoming quite frustrating. It feels like it's something new every time. I've just taken receipt of three shirts, and the "cuff around" measurement is 1cm shorter on each of the three shirts than on 95% of my other shirts, and certainly all recent ones. Ordered 8" as always, came in 7.65", on all three. That can't be down to tolerance. This is a short and somewhat sensitive measurement. I don't accept that +- 0.25" tolerance (which wasn't even satisfied here) applies the same to the length and the cuff width. If so, it's impossible to adjust for because if it goes 0.35" to the other side (even without changing the 8" measurement), it'll be far too wide. And again, happening on 3 shirts exactly the same, seems to me like it's easy to get it right (or wrong, in this case). It just seems there are batches where some measurements are systematically and unacceptably way too wide or narrow.

Secondly, I ordered the sleeve length 0.1" down from my previous shirt. Comes in 0.3" down compared to the last shirt (which, perhaps, was too wide?). Again, "within tolerance", but on a short and sensitive measurement. And again, it was pretty much true for all three shirts of this order. This and the cuff issue make them unwearable and furthermore, add confusion into my previous measurements. Should I adjust them up now, when I previously believed I needed to adjust them down? Impossible to know and so every order becomes a lottery.

I may being stretching the argument slightly here to make the point (all data is accurate however), but this is costing me more time and frustration than I am hoping right now. I'll just need to return full orders until I get "limited". Not sure when that happens, by this point I've only returned perhaps 5% of my 70 orders, and have probably given another ~15% of shirts to goodwill because it isn't primarily about the money and I do appreciate the issues with manufacturing the way it is done. So I'd love to keep it that way.

Sorry for the lengthy argument, but I would tell you, if you are not hearing increased issues on wrong measurements, most people probably have other sources and just don't bother.

Last point: The Pima oxfords shrink a ton. A TON. On the first wash. I've ordered 4 by this point. Especially in the (mid section) width, but really everywhere. The default adjustment is way small.

Interesting perspective and seems to be reflective of the same issue I've experienced a few pages back as a longstanding customer who has recently experienced a frustrating amount of inconsistency with new orders.

 

[philosophe]

Quick fabirc question: What's the weight of the Reda wool flannels? Shirt or overshirt?

 

[TC11201]

Quick fabirc question: What's the weight of the Reda wool flannels? Shirt or overshirt?

I have 1 shirt in REDA wool flannel. The fabric is shirt-weight. Similar to standard mid-weight cotton flannel. I suppose you could make a very light over-shirt, but it’s not a beefy, bullet-proof flannel if that’s what you’re looking for.

 

[Rakish Philosopher]

I’m looking to try the MTM program with proper cloth, can anyone provide me pros and cons of the program? I’m looking to make a 2 piece suit and a dress shirt to start.

 

[Jlee80]

I’m looking to try the MTM program with proper cloth, can anyone provide me pros and cons of the program? I’m looking to make a 2 piece suit and a dress shirt to start.

Same here. Looking to maybe commission a suit and would love some feedback.

 

[Frankie Fuzz]

I’ve got a question about adding side pleats to a dress shirt that it a bit too restrictive across the back. If I am going to add side pleats, should I first decrease the back width somehow? In other words, will adding pleats to the current dimensions make it much too wide in the back, or will the difference be subtle?

 

[EFV]

I’m looking to try the MTM program with proper cloth, can anyone provide me pros and cons of the program? I’m looking to make a 2 piece suit and a dress shirt to start.

Pros: If you're good at taking your own measurements/if you already know them, they make a great suit. I have two suits and one tux jacket from PC, and they're all great. The construction is really good for the price point.

Cons: I don't really see any. If you don't know your measurements I don't really know how it turns out, but I think the "smart sizes" system looks like a solid option.

 

[Yoda_in_oxfords]

I’m looking to try the MTM program with proper cloth, can anyone provide me pros and cons of the program? I’m looking to make a 2 piece suit and a dress shirt to start.

Unless you're 100% certain of your body measurements, go in with the expectation that your first suit & shirt will need adjustments for fit. Just speaking from my own experience. Your experience may be different, depending on the accuracy of your measurements, and your overall body proportions.

My initial measurements were done by me & the Mrs, and it was a disaster (lol). With PC's feedback, my first shirt's remake got me in the ballpark, but ultimately I needed a second remake to get about 95% there. The remaining 5% seems to be a moving target because the shrinkage tolerances can make some shirts fit well, while others not (especially in the cuffs). If this happens to you, err on the side of going just a little looser, since a looser fit is at least wearable, but something too tight is not.

Customer service is excellent. Work with them. Schedule a virtual fitting after you receive your first shirt. Same goes for your first suit. If your first garment's fit isn't too far off, they can point out where you may only need minor adjustments from a local tailor. For drastic changes, you'll need a remake, but they were accommodating with that on my first shirt & suit.

If you have odd body proportions, there's only so much the algorithm can do. I'm short in stature, but have weightlifting proportions. Their algorithm cannot adequately accommodate some of my parameters. To be fair though, this is probably a limitation with most MTM algorithms, not just with PC. This might not be an issue for most, but in my case, my body proportions require that the jacket's chest have more fabric distribution in the front; the jacket algorithm doesn't allow you to specify this. The shirt algorithm does allow for front/back chest distribution, so that's a plus.

Despite the fit not being perfect for my body in particular, I have stuck with PC so far because the fit is better than what I can achieve from altering anything OTR. I'm just an average guy in terms of sartorial dress, so the build quality and fabrics are sufficient, at least for me.

The shipping logistics are amusing. I realize this is really a function of PC's logistics partners, but I'm mentioning it in case it might also affect you, if you need a garment quickly for an event. Also note that I'm in Hawaii, so this is another factor. My shirts were all shipped via DHL, and my suits via FedEx. I watched tracking in amusement as the FedEx parcel hopscotched (and literally went in the opposite direction) around various hubs before finally making its way to Honolulu. IIRC, transit time was about 10 days.

 

[cuponoodles]

I’ve got a question about adding side pleats to a dress shirt that it a bit too restrictive across the back. If I am going to add side pleats, should I first decrease the back width somehow? In other words, will adding pleats to the current dimensions make it much too wide in the back, or will the difference be subtle?

I would definitely order your standard back measurement and not decrease with pleats. They provide a little bit of give for things like reaching forward and should not be in a "flexed" state at rest. The difference is very subtle.

 

[cuponoodles]

I’m looking to try the MTM program with proper cloth, can anyone provide me pros and cons of the program? I’m looking to make a 2 piece suit and a dress shirt to start.

Pros: I found the measurements generally pretty bang on for the suiting. You have a good degree of customization available as part of the standard design, and the price is extremely competitive with most other virtual tailors. Fabrics are generally from high-quality mills and the construction is solid.

Cons: Like most virtual options, it's sometimes tricky to assess how fabrics will fit, feel, and drape virtually. I'd either recommend ordering a swatch or (better yet) swinging by the showroom if you're around or ever visit the city.

Additionally, some specific customizations may not be possible, and like all virtual tailors, the fit also very much depends on your technique in terms of measurement. I would recommend measuring your best-fitting suit as a base option. Also, they're limited by what they have in stock, so if you're looking for a cherry red wool-cashmere blend or something a little out there, you may find something else out there.

 

[Seph]

Ok, I just have to post this here now. And I am hoping to be constructive. I've mentioned before how I'm a customer since 2015 having bought 60-70 shirts by this point. I do not want to switch or stop buying Proper Cloth shirts.

But the measurement issue is becoming quite frustrating. It feels like it's something new every time. I've just taken receipt of three shirts, and the "cuff around" measurement is 1cm shorter on each of the three shirts than on 95% of my other shirts, and certainly all recent ones. Ordered 8" as always, came in 7.65", on all three. That can't be down to tolerance. This is a short and somewhat sensitive measurement. I don't accept that +- 0.25" tolerance (which wasn't even satisfied here) applies the same to the length and the cuff width. If so, it's impossible to adjust for because if it goes 0.35" to the other side (even without changing the 8" measurement), it'll be far too wide. And again, happening on 3 shirts exactly the same, seems to me like it's easy to get it right (or wrong, in this case). It just seems there are batches where some measurements are systematically and unacceptably way too wide or narrow.

Secondly, I ordered the sleeve length 0.1" down from my previous shirt. Comes in 0.3" down compared to the last shirt (which, perhaps, was too wide?). Again, "within tolerance", but on a short and sensitive measurement. And again, it was pretty much true for all three shirts of this order. This and the cuff issue make them unwearable and furthermore, add confusion into my previous measurements. Should I adjust them up now, when I previously believed I needed to adjust them down? Impossible to know and so every order becomes a lottery.

I may being stretching the argument slightly here to make the point (all data is accurate however), but this is costing me more time and frustration than I am hoping right now. I'll just need to return full orders until I get "limited". Not sure when that happens, by this point I've only returned perhaps 5% of my 70 orders, and have probably given another ~15% of shirts to goodwill because it isn't primarily about the money and I do appreciate the issues with manufacturing the way it is done. So I'd love to keep it that way.

Sorry for the lengthy argument, but I would tell you, if you are not hearing increased issues on wrong measurements, most people probably have other sources and just don't bother.

Last point: The Pima oxfords shrink a ton. A TON. On the first wash. I've ordered 4 by this point. Especially in the (mid section) width, but really everywhere. The default adjustment is way small.

Hey Ari - sorry for the frustration. Very strange indeed to hear about cuffs not matching spec. We have recently tightened tolerance on these to be +-1/8" actually, and I can't recall ever seeing one that wasn't near perfect out of the box.

If on the other hand you're talking about post-wash/dry - then that's a different story. We have recently been conducting a series of new tests of shirts made in different fabric qualities, measuring how they shrink in every dimension - and I have been surprised to see that, with some fabrics, the cuffs can shrink much more than expected. DM me what fabrics you're talking about and if it's post-wash and I can compare with what we've seen.

It will still take more planning and some meaningful tech changes to implement a solution that adjusts each dimension more aggressively for the expected shrinkage (and does so in a way that is clear and doesn't just create more problems). These series of tests we've been doing have been part of this initiative though.

 

[Seph]

Are there any plans to get any more of the Reda burgundy Merino wool (PCF3928)?

Unfortunately I was too slow to pull the trigger on the shirt on my wish list.

PCF3928 is Pine - and that will be back in late November. https://propercloth.com/fabrics/reda-pine-merino-wool-4736.html

PCF3929 is Reda Burgundy and it is available right now (but limited stock). https://propercloth.com/fabrics/reda-burgundy-merino-wool-4737.html

 

[Seph]

Is this fabric coming back with the next run?

Japanese Green and Grey Low Twist Plaid Shirts by Proper Cloth

A unique heavy twill fabric with rustic texture and softness. We worked with a small Japanese mill that specializes in these types of fabrics to create this low twist twill and its

propercloth.com

This is not coming back.

 

[Seph]

Can anyone tell me if it’s possible to make a custom shirt that only has a flap pocket on the left-hand side? I have always appreciated that feature of J Press shirts.

It’s possible to order with two rounded flaps on the site but one is not an option. I feel like this should be an easy enough request.

I emailed customer support but I am not sure if they understood my request.

Yeah - we still don't offer this. Will keep the request in mind though.