Proper Cloth - Official Affiliate Thread

[GentlemanJeff]

Pros: If you're good at taking your own measurements/if you already know them, they make a great suit. I have two suits and one tux jacket from PC, and they're all great. The construction is really good for the price point.

Cons: I don't really see any. If you don't know your measurements I don't really know how it turns out, but I think the "smart sizes" system looks like a solid option.

i just did the smart size for fun and it’s scary close to my hand-taken measurements. Seems like it’s sound.

 

[GentlemanJeff]

Hey Ari - sorry for the frustration. Very strange indeed to hear about cuffs not matching spec. We have recently tightened tolerance on these to be +-1/8" actually, and I can't recall ever seeing one that wasn't near perfect out of the box.

If on the other hand you're talking about post-wash/dry - then that's a different story. We have recently been conducting a series of new tests of shirts made in different fabric qualities, measuring how they shrink in every dimension - and I have been surprised to see that, with some fabrics, the cuffs can shrink much more than expected. DM me what fabrics you're talking about and if it's post-wash and I can compare with what we've seen.

It will still take more planning and some meaningful tech changes to implement a solution that adjusts each dimension more aggressively for the expected shrinkage (and does so in a way that is clear and doesn't just create more problems). These series of tests we've been doing have been part of this initiative though.

If you guys can work out the shrinkage I’ll literally buy 50 shirts from you.

 

[Seph]

I would definitely order your standard back measurement and not decrease with pleats. They provide a little bit of give for things like reaching forward and should not be in a "flexed" state at rest. The difference is very subtle.

Agreed

 

[Seph]

Can anyone tell me if it’s possible to make a custom shirt that only has a flap pocket on the left-hand side? I have always appreciated that feature of J Press shirts.

It’s possible to order with two rounded flaps on the site but one is not an option. I feel like this should be an easy enough request.

I emailed customer support but I am not sure if they understood my request.

Is the preference for this option to be available as an angled/western flap or as a rounded flap?

 

[db123456]

Is the preference for this option to be available as an angled/western flap or as a rounded flap?

I’d go for an angled pocket. I feel like the business case here is trying to copy the J. Press design.

 

[venividivicibj]

@Seph

showing two different size charts for the same sweater (two different colors), is this correct? (One shows ‘Italian knitwear’ and the other ‘arran sweater’

Light Grey Italian Wool And Cashmere Aran Crewneck Sweater

A modern take on the traditional fisherman sweater. We’ve always loved the incredible fisherman sweaters that come from Ireland’s Aran Islands, and this is our modern take on t

propercloth.com

Vs

Grey Italian Wool And Cashmere Aran Crewneck Sweater

A modern take on the traditional fisherman sweater. We’ve always loved the incredible fisherman sweaters that come from Ireland’s Aran Islands, and this is our modern take on t

propercloth.com

 

[AriG]

Hey Ari - sorry for the frustration. Very strange indeed to hear about cuffs not matching spec. We have recently tightened tolerance on these to be +-1/8" actually, and I can't recall ever seeing one that wasn't near perfect out of the box.

If on the other hand you're talking about post-wash/dry - then that's a different story. We have recently been conducting a series of new tests of shirts made in different fabric qualities, measuring how they shrink in every dimension - and I have been surprised to see that, with some fabrics, the cuffs can shrink much more than expected. DM me what fabrics you're talking about and if it's post-wash and I can compare with what we've seen.

It will still take more planning and some meaningful tech changes to implement a solution that adjusts each dimension more aggressively for the expected shrinkage (and does so in a way that is clear and doesn't just create more problems). These series of tests we've been doing have been part of this initiative though.

Seph
Thanks. As I said, most of my cuffs (95%?) have been perfect out of the box. Here, I am talking pre-wash of course and they didn't change post (none ever have noticeably for me). I still think - to summarize my main point from the post - the major problem barring shrinkage adjustment is lackluster QE and stated tolerances not being very consistently enforced.

With that particular order, I was able to return two of the three shirts and receive credit expeditiously, so I will try my luck again (I wish I could order it under a different premise). But as another user stated, if some tangible improvement could happen there (or at least remove that perpetual feeling of different batches as far as measurement consistency - I really can say that having nearly 8 years and 70 shirts experience), as the addicts we are, I'd probably be ordering 2 shirts monthly. And - it most definitely keeps me from attempting to order any higher priced items like suits, coats etc. as the anticipation of the hoops to jump through to get it right just kills the whole thing.

 

[tilesomoole]

I really can say that having nearly 8 years and 70 shirts experience), as the addicts we are, I'd probably be ordering 2 shirts monthly.

Me three. Is it possible to request no shrinkage allowance and just give you the measurements you want for your shirts?

What puzzles me about my experience is that your CS (who were very prompt and great to work with, I'll add) told me that the 'shrinkage allowance' isn't figured into the sleeve or body length, which are the areas that shrink the most.

The 'shrinkage allowance' was added to the circumference of the torso of my first shirt while the sleeves and overall length were perfect. I had to return it as I measured a full 7" more fabric in the torso (about halfway between the armpits and waist of the shirt) and it was unwearably baggy.

It's the only reason I haven't ordered at least a dozen shirts from you in the past year.

I am considering a sportcoat, though, as there's no shrinkage allowance there, and I really like 2 of your fabrics.

Hopefully my comments help you sort out the issue - I look forward to ordering form you soon!

 

[Seph]

Seph
Thanks. As I said, most of my cuffs (95%?) have been perfect out of the box. Here, I am talking pre-wash of course and they didn't change post (none ever have noticeably for me).

I'll DM you for details. I've yet to see an unwashed shirt measuring incorrectly in the cuffs. The patterns are created digitally and the fabric is cut robotically. Hard to mess that up.

 

[Seph]

Me three. Is it possible to request no shrinkage allowance and just give you the measurements you want for your shirts?

What puzzles me about my experience is that your CS (who were very prompt and great to work with, I'll add) told me that the 'shrinkage allowance' isn't figured into the sleeve or body length, which are the areas that shrink the most.

The 'shrinkage allowance' was added to the circumference of the torso of my first shirt while the sleeves and overall length were perfect. I had to return it as I measured a full 7" more fabric in the torso (about halfway between the armpits and waist of the shirt) and it was unwearably baggy.

It's the only reason I haven't ordered at least a dozen shirts from you in the past year.

I am considering a sportcoat, though, as there's no shrinkage allowance there, and I really like 2 of your fabrics.

Hopefully my comments help you sort out the issue - I look forward to ordering form you soon!

There's currently no way to turn-off adjustments for expected shrinkage. We're considering adding something like this in the future.

Special Shrinkage Allowances may be applied to any dimension of the shirt now (including body length recently). Here's a full explanation of the current method: https://propercloth.com/reference/how-proper-cloth-adjusts-shirt-dimensions-for-shrinkage/. We currently adjust collars and sleeves a standard amount for all fabrics - and specially adjust other things depending on the fabric used.

No shrinkage adjustment should have intentionally caused a shirt to be 7" bigger around the torso... I'd have to see that specific shirt to try to understand what happened. Will DM you for details.

Yes, Tailored Clothing is thankfully much simpler since there is no shrinkage to worry about.

 

[Seph]

I’d go for an angled pocket. I feel like the business case here is trying to copy the J. Press design.

Got it - that J.Press one is quite large though...

 

[Seph]

@Seph

showing two different size charts for the same sweater (two different colors), is this correct? (One shows ‘Italian knitwear’ and the other ‘arran sweater’

Light Grey Italian Wool And Cashmere Aran Crewneck Sweater

A modern take on the traditional fisherman sweater. We’ve always loved the incredible fisherman sweaters that come from Ireland’s Aran Islands, and this is our modern take on t

propercloth.com

Vs

Grey Italian Wool And Cashmere Aran Crewneck Sweater

A modern take on the traditional fisherman sweater. We’ve always loved the incredible fisherman sweaters that come from Ireland’s Aran Islands, and this is our modern take on t

propercloth.com

Yes - both of these size charts are correct. The two colors measure differently.

 

[JTrent82]

Christmas is coming, and I'd like to present you with my wishlist for custom trousers.

1) Adjustable waistband height.
2) Options for coin pockets (flapped/jetted)
3) Suspender buttons
4) Jetted leg pockets*

*Hear me out! People need a place to keep their cellphones in their chinos. Back pocket causes spinal alignment issues, front pocket carries the possibility of testicular cancer, and cargo pockets look terribly unprofessional. I bet it would be a more popular option than pleated cargo pockets. Example below:

 

[TheLawBeard]

Any chance we'll see fabric options from Carlo Riva or some of the other luxury mills?

 

[Seph]

Any chance we'll see fabric options from Carlo Riva or some of the other luxury mills?

No Carlo Riva. Plenty of DJA and Thomas Mason Goldline though https://propercloth.com/fabrics?sort=price-high