Proper Cloth - Official Affiliate Thread

[Seph]

@Seph and all. I’d like to have some dress shirts and trousers made by Proper Cloth. Can I mail trousers and shirts for measurements? I see an option to mail shirts, but don’t see one for trousers.

Yes you can.

 

[Seph]

Hi Seph, thanks for acknowledging this. I’m hoping to place an order momentarily but looking for clarification on an item:

Using this as a guide:

How Much Will a Dress Shirt Shrink?

Learn about dress shirt shrinkage and how different fabrics can affect it. Discover how much your collar and sleeve length can be impacted.

propercloth.com

Per the above guide, you don’t add extra shirt length for standard shrinkage compensation, but you DO add extra shirt length for the special extra shrinkage fabrics (“all the shirt’s dimensions”). Is that correct?

As such, to compensate for shrinkage, I should add 2-3% in length for standard shrinkage, and don’t need to worry about adding even more length for the extra shrinkage fabrics? Is that right too?

Thanks!

We currently don't add any shrinkage allowance to shirt length for any fabric (standard fabrics or extra shrinkage fabrics). I.e. the shirt length should match spec right out of the box for all cases. If you're worried about shrinkage in shirt length and ordering today you should increase the length slightly. This is the particular point we're considering changing in the future.

 

[nevaeh]

Yes you can.

Thanks, @Seph! I'll mail both those next week.

 

[ericgereghty]

PC’s big boi BD (is it called Roma?) in action. Think this is going to age GREAT in the drapier Baird linen. Will be back for more…

 

[stubbsj20]

What yoke style do you like for casual, short sleeve polo shirts? Split? One piece? Polo?

 

[Adman West]

@Seph I’m a long time shirt customer but I’d love to see PC up its game on casual pants. Any plans to release some non-stretch chino fabrics?

 

[Seph]

What yoke style do you like for casual, short sleeve polo shirts? Split? One piece? Polo?

For knit fabrics, do a polo yoke.

 

[Seph]

@Seph I’m a long time shirt customer but I’d love to see PC up its game on casual pants. Any plans to release some non-stretch chino fabrics?

We are working hard to make the casual pant line stronger, but wary to do fabrics without any stretch since it can make the same fit not work between fabrics. Most of the "stretch cotton" fabrics we have are not that stretchy - they handle like 100% cotton fabrics - just have a bit of extra give to make the fit a little more forgiving. That said we will have a few non-stretch denims coming later this summer.

 

[AriG]

Hey gang, I wanted to try and ask one very specific question here. See if I get that right or I suffered a weird one-off.

As a disclaimer, I'm about 65 shirts into PC, so I've been around for a second and seen a few changes and improvements

This concerns the Franklin Spread Collar (but may concern other stiff/fused collars, also). I have only ordered one this year (beside Soft Franklins and Soft Ivys), and was thrown off by its construction. I've since learned that an update had happened on the shape and interlining of the Franklin Spreads (and again, probably others). On the Soft Franklins this update did not register with me, although I've noted them varying slightly depending on fabric (point length +0.5cm and seemingly higher front being among the variations).

However on the stiff version, what's thrown me massively on that one shirt is that the interlining had sort of "gone through" uninterrupted between the collar band and collar leafs, thus it would not lay flat naturally, unless forced in place by a tie (or I suppose, an unadvisably brutal press job). This made it unwearable without a tie as it would just flare out and look all around terrible.

It's deterred me from ordering any stiff collar since. My question is, is that how it's supposed to be? If so, I'd argue it's quite a terrible choice, but I'd know and can focus on other collars. I've been tempted to have some shirts made up in Stiff Franklin again (some fabrics really benefit from stiff construction), but I thought I'd ask around here before doing so and possibly having to return from international if this is indeed a deliberate change. And would it concern all stiff collars, I suppose, would be good to know as well.

Thank you!

 

[cuponoodles]

We are working hard to make the casual pant line stronger, but wary to do fabrics without any stretch since it can make the same fit not work between fabrics. Most of the "stretch cotton" fabrics we have are not that stretchy - they handle like 100% cotton fabrics - just have a bit of extra give to make the fit a little more forgiving. That said we will have a few non-stretch denims coming later this summer.

Just a note that there are those of us who love the stretch fabrics!

To that end, what's the rationale behind the non-stretch denim? Has there been an appetite for that amongst denimheads? I ask as I replaced my entire selvedge denim collection pretty much instantly once I tried on some good stretch denim.

 

[Seph]

Just a note that there are those of us who love the stretch fabrics!

To that end, what's the rationale behind the non-stretch denim? Has there been an appetite for that amongst denimheads? I ask as I replaced my entire selvedge denim collection pretty much instantly once I tried on some good stretch denim.

Yes - some folks have requested denim with no stretch. I'm not sure their motivations exactly. My guess is that - if someone has seen or experienced some of the stretch denim on the market that is so stretchy it wears like a legging - then maybe they assume all stretch denim is like that. But ours is nowhere near that stretchy and, in my opinion, doesn't wear that much differently from 100% cotton.

 

[Seph]

Hey gang, I wanted to try and ask one very specific question here. See if I get that right or I suffered a weird one-off.

As a disclaimer, I'm about 65 shirts into PC, so I've been around for a second and seen a few changes and improvements

This concerns the Franklin Spread Collar (but may concern other stiff/fused collars, also). I have only ordered one this year (beside Soft Franklins and Soft Ivys), and was thrown off by its construction. I've since learned that an update had happened on the shape and interlining of the Franklin Spreads (and again, probably others). On the Soft Franklins this update did not register with me, although I've noted them varying slightly depending on fabric (point length +0.5cm and seemingly higher front being among the variations).

However on the stiff version, what's thrown me massively on that one shirt is that the interlining had sort of "gone through" uninterrupted between the collar band and collar leafs, thus it would not lay flat naturally, unless forced in place by a tie (or I suppose, an unadvisably brutal press job). This made it unwearable without a tie as it would just flare out and look all around terrible.

It's deterred me from ordering any stiff collar since. My question is, is that how it's supposed to be? If so, I'd argue it's quite a terrible choice, but I'd know and can focus on other collars. I've been tempted to have some shirts made up in Stiff Franklin again (some fabrics really benefit from stiff construction), but I thought I'd ask around here before doing so and possibly having to return from international if this is indeed a deliberate change. And would it concern all stiff collars, I suppose, would be good to know as well.

Thank you!

Thanks for the specific feedback. I know exactly what you're talking about with the Franklin Spread - was under the impression this had been swapped to a more pliable interlining - but upon investigation now we realize it has not been. We will make adjustments here asap.

 

[StanleyVanBuren]

can you give us a rundown on what the recent collar changes entail?

 

[AriG]

Thanks for the specific feedback. I know exactly what you're talking about with the Franklin Spread - was under the impression this had been swapped to a more pliable interlining - but upon investigation now we realize it has not been. We will make adjustments here asap.

Awesome that you know what I am referring to. If you drop a note whenever that'll be done I'm sure I'll be ready to order! Thanks.

 

[C_kimlin920]

How does PC shirts compare to brands such as Spier and Mackay or Kamakura?