Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[jonathanS]

I’m curious if he realize that it was for you? I think, especially for Naples, it’s better to use a separate trousermaker. I have 3 pairs of pants that tell me that haha (they were 600€ each, so almost as good as @lordsuperb’s deal, except they don’t fit). Lesson learned. Plus, I hope to visit Naples at the end of the year and see a tailor me trousermaker introduces me to. Which would make it a more logical fit to use both for a suit.

I have for various reasons used a trouser tailor as well as a regular tailor (both in Naples). Anyway, when I wanted a linen suit I for some reason thought it would be best to have both items executed my my (jacket) tailor. Turned out my pant maker ended up making them anyway as he is apparently the person to whom my tailor outsources all pants 😂 So ever since, I have stuck with my pant maker...

 

[S K M]

I’m curious if he realize that it was for you? I think, especially for Naples, it’s better to use a separate trousermaker. I have 3 pairs of pants that tell me that haha (they were 600€ each, so almost as good as @lordsuperb’s deal, except they don’t fit). Lesson learned. Plus, I hope to visit Naples at the end of the year and see a tailor me trousermaker introduces me to. Which would make it a more logical fit to use both for a suit.

I don't think he did, especially because the first fitting of the trousers, which was based on only my tailor's measurements, was a bit off, but they ended up fitting just as well as my other trousers when we all found out how we were somehow already all connected. Your plan sounds good btw.

 

[Crispyj]

Small clean up left side and taking in the waist.

 

[jonathanS]

I don't think he did, especially because the first fitting of the trousers, which was based on only my tailor's measurements, was a bit off, but they ended up fitting just as well as my other trousers when we all found out how we were somehow already all connected. Your plan sounds good btw.

I think, especially for Napoli, the personal relationship with the tailor (or being introduced via one of their friends) is really important if you want the tailor to produce a high quality garment.

Small clean up left side and taking in the waist.
View attachment 1968107 View attachment 1968109 View attachment 1968111

looks good!

 

[Mr. Six]

Small clean up left side and taking in the waist.
View attachment 1968107 View attachment 1968109 View attachment 1968111

Looks nice. What fabric is that?

 

[nmprisons]

Ask new clients to wear or bring a tailored trouser and a jacket they have. I need to see what they have been wearing. How it looks and fits them. Then we go over what they like, don’t like or would change about the garment. I need to see it on them because it’s more accurate than verbal communication.
WILL NOT measure a client wearing jeans.

Wait, @Despos, are you actually taking new clients?

 

[Crispyj]

Looks nice. What fabric is that?

Vintage Cerruti, similar to old sportex.

 

[gimpwiz]

Ask new clients to wear or bring a tailored trouser and a jacket they have. I need to see what they have been wearing. How it looks and fits them. Then we go over what they like, don’t like or would change about the garment. I need to see it on them because it’s more accurate than verbal communication.
WILL NOT measure a client wearing jeans.

The first suit I ever got, I had made. Thankfully they were happy to measure me as I was, you know, suit-less.

 

[ericgereghty]

Small clean up left side and taking in the waist.
View attachment 1968107 View attachment 1968109 View attachment 1968111

Fabric on the suit looks amazing. Super cool.

 

[Mr. Six]

Vintage Cerruti, similar to old sportex.

I figured it was vintage. I've got a few saved images of fabrics like that, all vintage .I need to start looking at some of the current books to see if anyone is making something similar, unless @Despos already has the answer for us!

 

[Despos]

The first suit I ever got, I had made. Thankfully they were happy to measure me as I was, you know, suit-less.

I know, most tailors aren't as particular as I am.

 

[Despos]

Wait, @Despos, are you actually taking new clients?

Only for trousers and if you are in Chicago, Dallas or NYC.

In Dallas next week with Daniel Wegan and Wil Whiting

NYC end of the month.

 

[Despos]

I figured it was vintage. I've got a few saved images of fabrics like that, all vintage .I need to start looking at some of the current books to see if anyone is making something similar, unless @Despos already has the answer for us!

Wish mills would weave some of these vintage cloths again. I guess that's the motif for LL cloth.
Had a cloth with the same pattern as Crispy's but in taupe/grey. It was gorgeous. Didn't last long.
Mohairs from the 70's were so different in color ways and patterns than what is available at present. More interesting earth tones.

 

[jonathanS]

a humble suggestion from standeven’s heritage twist. not the exact same but similar affect.

 

[Crispyj]

Here's an up close. Mini squares with 2 or 3 different color threads in each square. Brown and grey.