Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[Despos]

Very nice choice of fabrics and colors. Is it the VBC covert? But why these tacky pockets???

Sean Connery wore trousers with this pocket style in Goldfinger. C’mon man, he is James Bond!

 

[lordsuperb]

Sean Connery wore trousers with this pocket style in Goldfinger. C’mon man, he is James Bond!

I see someone's been watching their NFL Countdown!

 

[Despos]

I like how the pocket square is the pocket lining pulled up

In the 70’s a few MTM companies made the breast pocket bag from the same jacket lining so you could pull it up as a pocket square. This actually was a thing

 

[Despos]

I see someone's been watching their NFL Countdown!

Wasn’t me, you must be confusing this with someone else

 

[aristoi bcn]

In the 70’s a few MTM companies made the breast pocket bag from the same jacket lining so you could pull it up as a pocket square. This actually was a thing

Even Massimo Dutti included this feature some seasons ago.

 

[Marshak]

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Cloths are these ones. 480g or 15/16oz

Pockets are not tacky but very appropriate for the type of cloth. You can see many historical pictures of British aristocrats wearing cavalry twills, whipcords and "cover" cloth trousers with this design of pockets paired together with their Tweed kackets.

Did you order through Marco or directly at Harrison's (their website is absolutely awful)?

 

[Encathol Epistemia]

I’ve been using John DiPietro for alterations recently after @Encathol Epistemia has been showcasing his work. It’s nice to know that I can trust him to do more complicated things than a run of the mill dry cleaning shop.

I was at his shop today to pick up some trousers I won on Luxeswap and was chatting it up with John when this beauty caught my attention out of the corner of my eye.

it was a lounge suit John had made for himself in the 70s, that is too good not to share. He even pointed out how he made sure to pattern match the breasts on the back like it was a plaid jacket.

I feel like if the scummy 70s motif is back in style, then John deserves to have his moment in the sun again. I’m not sure if this (or anywhere) is the appropriate place to share this, I figured since this thread is quasi-familiar with him it would make the most sense here.

Pardon my interjection, but I visited John Di Pietro today to retrieve a suit that I'd given to him to press and for a fitting on a grey herringbone sport coat. While I was there, I had to see this thing and see what Mr. Di Pietro had to say about it. Firstly, it was made in 1971 when Mr. Di Pietro's shop was on the first floor of1227 Sanger Street with his home above it. (He moved to New Jersey in the eighties and moved his shop first to the Bourse Building, then his current location at 2526 South Broad Street)

The cloth was offered in two colors, the one pictured and a taupe. It was originally commissioned by a man who asked for the trousers to be knickers. Per Mr. Di Pietro, he was lucky that he never got around to cutting those knickers, because the client turned out to be a drug dealer and was killed at a nightclub in Atlantic City before that step was reached. Presumably nobody would want grey knickerbockers with topless women on them, no matter how well made.

I also noticed that the label inside of the pocket, in addition to listing Mr. Di Pietro's old address also had below it, "CU," then a series of numbers. I didn't get around to asking, but I wondered what that was. My best, which isn't to say that it's very good, guess is that it was some kind of union designation, but I don't really have a clue.

 

[dieworkwear]

I also noticed that the label inside of the pocket, in addition to listing Mr. Di Pietro's old address also had below it, "CU," then a series of numbers. I didn't get around to asking, but I wondered what that was. My best, which isn't to say that it's very good, guess is that it was some kind of union designation, but I don't really have a clue.

Certain not to be the same thing, but back in the day, before Brooks Brothers got bought out by Marks & Spencer, the sales associates there used to have a term called the "CU Customer." CU Customers were customers who would come in and asked to "see you." It referred to how Brooks Brothers customers had a very close relationship with their sales associates, sometimes even introducing their son as a new customer (which is why Brooks Brothers' vanity book is titled "Generations of Style," referring to how sales associates sometimes dressed generations of men in the same family).

Anyway, I always thought that "CU Customer" anecdote was a good reference point for how business used to be done at Brooks. I came into the store well after Marks & Spencer purchased it, so never had this experience. But it's a charming story.

 

[Bespoke DJP]

Per Mr. Di Pietro, he was lucky that he never got around to cutting those knickers, because the client turned out to be a drug dealer and was killed at a nightclub in Atlantic City before that step was reached...

I also noticed that the label inside of the pocket, in addition to listing Mr. Di Pietro's old address also had below it, "CU," then a series of numbers. I didn't get around to asking, but I wondered what that was.

CU: Crime Unit?

 

[dresden]

One other thing to consider, if you haven't already.

A polo coat sleeves can be made with a lapped seam. I've heard this described as a "cut sleeve," although I don't know if that's a technical term or some kind of regionalism. Polo coats are traditionally made with a turnback cuff. But a lapped seam/ cut sleeve refers to how there are two seams on the sleeves, one of them lapped.
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The bulky seam results in what I think is a more casual looking coat. Like this

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Compare that to a smoother sleeve made without a lapped seam. Like this


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I personally prefer a lapped seam, as I think it makes the coat look more casual and "polo-y." Ralph Lauren also uses a lapped seam and I'm a big fan of his designs.

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If you get a lapped seam, however, you can't put buttons on the cuff, if that was in your original plan. But I like how the style comes together like this:


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I did not think of that on the sleeve. I really like the first photo. The more subtle pic stitching looks nice. I can’t decide which sleeve I like better, lapped or plain. I heard through the grapevine it was her grandfather (who she learned tailoring from and is 92) that suggested turning it into an older style polo coat. I wonder how far he will go with the details.

 

[dresden]

Want to share my autumn/winter commissions which arrived today both:

Cerrato

Smith Woollens whipcords. Medium grey and khaki green. Flat front, belt loops and carretiera pockets. No fuss with details, neither extended or wider waistband nor buttons in the cuffs anymore. Less taper in the leg and 4,5cms of cuff instead of 5cms in comparison with my previous commissions from Marco.

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Golia

Canclini oxfords. White with french cuffs and blue check and houndstooth with single ones.

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Unfortunately I couldn't make it to Naples to pick up my navy Ulster coat from Iorio due to covid travel restrictions.

I grew up in the Mod and anti racist skinhead scene on the west coast. Seatlle, Portland, San Francisco and Los Angeles. We used to exclusively get these pockets on suits. Trying to copy one of the Sta-Prest styles. Can’t remember which one. This was long before the internet so we only had soul record covers, James Bond and JFK to get ideas from. I really like them. The only reason I stopped is because I stopped wearing my trousers as slim and side pockets are more comfortable. We called them frog pockets, I’m not sure why.
About your coat in Naples, do you think we (Europe) are headed for another lockdown?

 

[dresden]

Got this jacket back just in time for the season. She has taken it back a couple times because we have had problems with the shoulders being too tight. I think we have figured it out. Here’s some not very good pictures to get an idea

 

[aristoi bcn]

I grew up in the Mod and anti racist skinhead scene on the west coast. Seatlle, Portland, San Francisco and Los Angeles. We used to exclusively get these pockets on suits. Trying to copy one of the Sta-Prest styles. Can’t remember which one. This was long before the internet so we only had soul record covers, James Bond and JFK to get ideas from. I really like them. The only reason I stopped is because I stopped wearing my trousers as slim and side pockets are more comfortable. We called them frog pockets, I’m not sure why.
About your coat in Naples, do you think we (Europe) are headed for another lockdown?

I don't think any government is willing to face the downsides of another lockdown.

Let's see.

I know about at least an old tailor of Madrid that is retiring because all covid issues.

 

[brax]

Client stopped by recently and said "My wife thinks I'm having an affair instead of visiting the tailor because she doesn't think anyone can look at cloth samples for 3-4 hours at a time".

That’s why my wife has met you in person. Quelled her concerns about the mysterious “Despos” tailor.

 

[brax]

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