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Mahatma Jawndi
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I also noticed that the label inside of the pocket, in addition to listing Mr. Di Pietro's old address also had below it, "CU," then a series of numbers. I didn't get around to asking, but I wondered what that was. My best, which isn't to say that it's very good, guess is that it was some kind of union designation, but I don't really have a clue.
Certain not to be the same thing, but back in the day, before Brooks Brothers got bought out by Marks & Spencer, the sales associates there used to have a term called the "CU Customer." CU Customers were customers who would come in and asked to "see you." It referred to how Brooks Brothers customers had a very close relationship with their sales associates, sometimes even introducing their son as a new customer (which is why Brooks Brothers' vanity book is titled "Generations of Style," referring to how sales associates sometimes dressed generations of men in the same family).

Anyway, I always thought that "CU Customer" anecdote was a good reference point for how business used to be done at Brooks. I came into the store well after Marks & Spencer purchased it, so never had this experience. But it's a charming story.
 

Bespoke DJP

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Per Mr. Di Pietro, he was lucky that he never got around to cutting those knickers, because the client turned out to be a drug dealer and was killed at a nightclub in Atlantic City before that step was reached...

I also noticed that the label inside of the pocket, in addition to listing Mr. Di Pietro's old address also had below it, "CU," then a series of numbers. I didn't get around to asking, but I wondered what that was.

CU: Crime Unit?
 

dresden

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One other thing to consider, if you haven't already.

A polo coat sleeves can be made with a lapped seam. I've heard this described as a "cut sleeve," although I don't know if that's a technical term or some kind of regionalism. Polo coats are traditionally made with a turnback cuff. But a lapped seam/ cut sleeve refers to how there are two seams on the sleeves, one of them lapped.
View attachment 1473669


The bulky seam results in what I think is a more casual looking coat. Like this

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Compare that to a smoother sleeve made without a lapped seam. Like this


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I personally prefer a lapped seam, as I think it makes the coat look more casual and "polo-y." Ralph Lauren also uses a lapped seam and I'm a big fan of his designs.

View attachment 1473685


If you get a lapped seam, however, you can't put buttons on the cuff, if that was in your original plan. But I like how the style comes together like this:


View attachment 1473683
I did not think of that on the sleeve. I really like the first photo. The more subtle pic stitching looks nice. I can’t decide which sleeve I like better, lapped or plain. I heard through the grapevine it was her grandfather (who she learned tailoring from and is 92) that suggested turning it into an older style polo coat. I wonder how far he will go with the details.
 

dresden

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Want to share my autumn/winter commissions which arrived today both:

Cerrato

Smith Woollens whipcords. Medium grey and khaki green. Flat front, belt loops and carretiera pockets. No fuss with details, neither extended or wider waistband nor buttons in the cuffs anymore. Less taper in the leg and 4,5cms of cuff instead of 5cms in comparison with my previous commissions from Marco.

View attachment 1473993View attachment 1473994

Golia

Canclini oxfords. White with french cuffs and blue check and houndstooth with single ones.

View attachment 1473995

Unfortunately I couldn't make it to Naples to pick up my navy Ulster coat from Iorio due to covid travel restrictions.
I grew up in the Mod and anti racist skinhead scene on the west coast. Seatlle, Portland, San Francisco and Los Angeles. We used to exclusively get these pockets on suits. Trying to copy one of the Sta-Prest styles. Can’t remember which one. This was long before the internet so we only had soul record covers, James Bond and JFK to get ideas from. I really like them. The only reason I stopped is because I stopped wearing my trousers as slim and side pockets are more comfortable. We called them frog pockets, I’m not sure why.
About your coat in Naples, do you think we (Europe) are headed for another lockdown?
 

dresden

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Got this jacket back just in time for the season. She has taken it back a couple times because we have had problems with the shoulders being too tight. I think we have figured it out. Here’s some not very good pictures to get an idea
 

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aristoi bcn

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I grew up in the Mod and anti racist skinhead scene on the west coast. Seatlle, Portland, San Francisco and Los Angeles. We used to exclusively get these pockets on suits. Trying to copy one of the Sta-Prest styles. Can’t remember which one. This was long before the internet so we only had soul record covers, James Bond and JFK to get ideas from. I really like them. The only reason I stopped is because I stopped wearing my trousers as slim and side pockets are more comfortable. We called them frog pockets, I’m not sure why.
About your coat in Naples, do you think we (Europe) are headed for another lockdown?
I don't think any government is willing to face the downsides of another lockdown.

Let's see.

I know about at least an old tailor of Madrid that is retiring because all covid issues.
 

brax

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Client stopped by recently and said "My wife thinks I'm having an affair instead of visiting the tailor because she doesn't think anyone can look at cloth samples for 3-4 hours at a time".
That’s why my wife has met you in person. Quelled her concerns about the mysterious “Despos” tailor.
 

brax

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We had a quick Indian Summer (am I allowed to use that term?) and got one wear of this suit before going to storage. Not sure why it looks so grey as it is very blue. One concern (unfounded as it turns out) was that it would look too much like denim. It is wool/linen dead stock from Huddersfield.
A2363E6B-B78B-4F7D-A415-4AC7DB98FBF5.jpeg
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blueberry7

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A while back I posted about my blue single breasted peak lapel one-button suit. It’s almost done. Getting there!
View attachment 1478444
But there are two buttons marked?
And for a peak (rising) lapel the shoulders are too 'downward' and rounded, in my opinion.
To my eye this kind of spoils the dramatic effect of peak lapels.
Not sure whether this is helpful, at that stage or in general. But please take into consideration that I've just had my fifth Negroni for tonight and I may not know what I'm talking about.
Cheers.
 

bdavro23

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A while back I posted about my blue single breasted peak lapel one-button suit. It’s almost done. Getting there!
View attachment 1478444
I think this looks great and I really like the shape, position and point direction of the lapels. Sharp peaks that point to the sky and are set high look terrible to me.

Forgive me, and I'll never mention it again, the beard is pretty distracting.
 

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