Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[Guyinbrown]

Thank you. I have a sample of the fabric and the herringbone pattern width is 1.5cm. I have just made an illustrative photo where I display moire fabric together with the fabric (it’s more like oatmeal). I don’t see much shine but of course the fabric contains 30%silk...any comment?

 

[Guyinbrown]

thank you

 

[dieworkwear]

Thank you. I have a sample of the fabric and the herringbone pattern width is 1.5cm. I have just made an illustrative photo where I display moire fabric together with the fabric (it’s more like oatmeal). I don’t see much shine but of course the fabric contains 30%silk...any comment?

Silk blends don't have to be shiny. It really depends on the cloth.

I don't have any herringbone fabrics in front of me right now, so can't say if 1.5cm width is good. I would just eyeball it. Imagine it as a sport coat. If you're on the fence, I would just try a different fabric. It can be hard to find a herringbone with a good scale to the pattern. Personally, if I had to go with a "normal" sized herringbone as a sport coat, I would be more comfortable with a tweed. For a silk-wool-blend, try something solid colored but textured (like a chunky plain weave)

 

[classicalthunde]

Silk blends don't have to be shiny. It really depends on the cloth.

I don't have any herringbone fabrics in front of me right now, so can't say if 1.5cm width is good. I would just eyeball it. Imagine it as a sport coat. If you're on the fence, I would just try a different fabric. It can be hard to find a herringbone with a good scale to the pattern. Personally, if I had to go with a "normal" sized herringbone as a sport coat, I would be more comfortable with a tweed. For a silk-wool-blend, try something solid colored but textured (like a chunky plain weave)

when measuring, do you look at the width of just one row or both rows for the full chevon shape?

 

[Guyinbrown]

when measuring, do you look at the width of just one row or both rows for the full chevon shape?

both rows (full chevron shape)

 

[Serdman]

Could you start a private chat with me, have some questions regarding those young tailors?

I have bespoken a few jackets from Sartoria Sodano. Some were really good, and others weren’t successful. If you’re considering commissioning anything from him, I would I advise you to be straightforward with him with your desires and requests. He is a good young tailor, but he requires a bit guidance when it comes to what a customer wants.

I will recommend him, but I think there are other young neapolitan tailors, like Sartoria Cuomo and Sartoria La Montagne...etc, who do a great job.

 

[Bespoke DJP]

Dear @Guyinbrown,

The provenance of this WSL fabric is Loro Piana, it is from their "Mare" bunch, not a new one, but still present. As a coincidence I have checked it for myself (the LP one) and it is a very nice fabric with no shine at all.

I am afraid that I need to underline that this is not a theme for this thread but for the Unfunded Liabilities aka the cloth Thread!

Cheers,

Dimitris

 

[Guyinbrown]

Dear @Guyinbrown,

The provenance of this WSL fabric is Loro Piana, it is from their "Mare" bunch, not a new one, but still present. As a coincidence I have checked it for myself (the LP one) and it is a very nice fabric with no shine at all.

I am afraid that I need to underline that this is not a theme for this thread but for the Unfunded Liabilities aka the cloth Thread!

Cheers,

Dimitris

Dimitris, you have been most helpful! And I do apologize if I posted my question in wrong thread, I am new in this forum and still getting used with it, Regards, Henry

 

[Bespoke DJP]

Henry Hi,

No apologies please, it happened to all of us!

In Unfunded Liabilities, participants are more, and the very discussion is on cloth that we are contemplating, seeking advice, pointers, etc, therefore all that will be in a "bigger scale".

Ah, BTW, speaking of scale, for a Spring-Summer Sport Coat the said fabric's herringbone scale is fine. If we were speaking about a Fall-Winter, a wider one would be necessary IMO.

Best,

Dimitris

PS
I will post something for you in the other Thread.

 

[Guyinbrown]

Dimitris, thank you so so much, very kind of you. Regards, Henry

 

[Bromley]

@lordsuperb Was that you in purple tweed on Steed's Instagram? Looks great!

 

[lordsuperb]

@lordsuperb Was that you in purple tweed on Steed's Instagram? Looks great!

Sexy me!!!!

 

[Thomson]

Hi everyone,

A quick question. I have had two bespoke trousers made for me, one in Crispaire and another in a heavier Scabal flannel.

The first pair tended to get stuck on the heel cup / back of my dress shoes, so that it would ride up at the back. My tailor thought that it is mainly an issue of the length so that for the second pair of trousers she increased it a bit. However the issue has persisted. It doesn’t happen all the time but often enough.

She thinks it may have to do with how the trousers are (and here she used a technical term which I think means how they are) ironed. Other than that they are the best fitting trousers I have ever had.

The trousers have a leg opening of 20cm and are finished with some kind of reinforcement inside which I think English tailors don’t tend to use. Also turn-ups.
I suspect I have the same issue with some MTM trousers but never been picky enough to care (also they don’t have turn-ups so it is maybe less obvious). I also have a suit from W&S and the suit trousers don’t exhibit the same issue - but also don’t fit quite as well.


Would anyone have a steer as to what might be the problem?

 

[jonathanS]

Hi everyone,

A quick question. I have had two bespoke trousers made for me, one in Crispaire and another in a heavier Scabal flannel.

The first pair tended to get stuck on the heel cup / back of my dress shoes, so that it would ride up at the back. My tailor thought that it is mainly an issue of the length so that for the second pair of trousers she increased it a bit. However the issue has persisted. It doesn’t happen all the time but often enough.

She thinks it may have to do with how the trousers are (and here she used a technical term which I think means how they are) ironed. Other than that they are the best fitting trousers I have ever had.

The trousers have a leg opening of 20cm and are finished with some kind of reinforcement inside which I think English tailors don’t tend to use. Also turn-ups.
I suspect I have the same issue with some MTM trousers but never been picky enough to care (also they don’t have turn-ups so it is maybe less obvious). I also have a suit from W&S and the suit trousers don’t exhibit the same issue - but also don’t fit quite as well.


Would anyone have a steer as to what might be the problem?

New tailor? It’s not your job to diagnose the problem.

 

[Despos]

Hi everyone,

A quick question. I have had two bespoke trousers made for me, one in Crispaire and another in a heavier Scabal flannel.

The first pair tended to get stuck on the heel cup / back of my dress shoes, so that it would ride up at the back. My tailor thought that it is mainly an issue of the length so that for the second pair of trousers she increased it a bit. However the issue has persisted. It doesn’t happen all the time but often enough.

She thinks it may have to do with how the trousers are (and here she used a technical term which I think means how they are) ironed. Other than that they are the best fitting trousers I have ever had.

The trousers have a leg opening of 20cm and are finished with some kind of reinforcement inside which I think English tailors don’t tend to use. Also turn-ups.
I suspect I have the same issue with some MTM trousers but never been picky enough to care (also they don’t have turn-ups so it is maybe less obvious). I also have a suit from W&S and the suit trousers don’t exhibit the same issue - but also don’t fit quite as well.



Would anyone have a steer as to what might be the problem?

Have you considered it may be the shoe and the way it fits? Does the same thing happen when you wear a different shoe?