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    If you are a home sewer, please consider helping my joining Hickey Freman Technical Vice President Jeffery Diduch in his effort to produce and deliver homemade gowns and masks to medical professionals in the greater Rochester, New York Area. Read about how you can help here

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Encathol Epistemia

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I took delivery of a very dark green three-piece suit in wool and cashmere by John Di Pietro on Saturday and wore it for a relaxing time at a local cigar bar, to a theater engagement then to a very excellent dinner at Le Virtù. This suit feels very cozy as well as quite thick and warm, but feels surprisingly light. I actually paid a deposit in September to reserve the cloth, but work on it didn't begin until December.

These were taken with a digital camera sitting on a pair of cigar boxes on a cardboard box on a barstool using a three-picture burst timer function and are a little unkind to their subject.. (I'm no... Robert Maplethorpe? He was a famous, photographer, right? Yeah, no need to check) I always get the most dreadful wrinkles on the thighs of my trousers at what is the 'vertex' of the right angle formed when I sit.

Dark Green Cool Suit Front.JPG


This is the suit as seen from the front; this is actually a fairly natural posture for me. The necktie is a grenadine fina in navy blue from Sam Hober; note the besom, rather than welted breasted pocket and 'cloverleaf', not notch, lapels.

Dark Green Cool Suit Side.JPG


This is what it looks like from the side. Remember when I said that I was fat, well, I submit this as evidence.

Cue "Funeral March of a Marionette!"

Dark Green Cool Suit Rear.JPG


The only distinguishing feature from the this rear view is the half-belt on the back.

Dark Green Cool Suit Flasher.JPG


Here I display the lining and double-breasted, shawl lapel waistcoat, as well as that I neglected to button its top button, however that seems the emphasize the buttonhole included to run my watch fob through, or at least that's enough of a rationalization for me to not try to take pictures again. (Pointless note: None of my pocket watches work right now, so I didn't actually wear one yesterday; watchmakers seem almost harder to find than tailors, especially one's whom you can trust with centenarian timepieces)

As they aren't visible in any pictures, the trousers have plain ends with no cuffs. (I was wearing slippers anyway, so it's just as well that they aren't visible)

Mr. Di Pietro is also making two double-breasted waistcoats to match some trousers that he made for me last year, which I wear on weekends and after work.

Cool Casual Waistcoats Partially FInished.JPG


They will have four buttons, a buttonhole for my watch fob, and four pockets, but no lapel. (The one at right looks worse than it should as I had hastily placed it on the mannequin for this picture)
 
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Serdman

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Hi Mr. Foxx

Can you tell us more about your experience with Sartoria Sodano. Was everything allright and can your recommend him?

Those 2 jackets are made by Sartoria Fabio Sodano from Naples. I did not go with the house cut, nor for the typical neapolitan style (eg. manica a camicia). Instead opted for something more classic.

Anyway I will receive the jackets very soon.
 
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paborden

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Here's a slightly off topic question -

I'm in the process of getting my length of LL everest cashmere made up in Naples. Apparently there's a new law on the books here where any international customers of an Italian company need to provide their "international tax id". While I have an EIN in the US, I cannot for the life of me figure out where to get an international tax id for my tailor here.

Anyone encountered this before? It does seem to be a fairly new thing (in the last 4 or 5 months)
 

Guyinbrown

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Here's a slightly off topic question -

I'm in the process of getting my length of LL everest cashmere made up in Naples. Apparently there's a new law on the books here where any international customers of an Italian company need to provide their "international tax id". While I have an EIN in the US, I cannot for the life of me figure out where to get an international tax id for my tailor here.

Anyone encountered this before? It does seem to be a fairly new thing (in the last 4 or 5 months)
I think if you just give your US tax ID it would do the work as I am in British and I gave my UK NIN and that was enough for them
 

Guyinbrown

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Hi, I am planing to commission a Neapolitan sports coat using Caccioppoli fabric no. 300147 and therefore was wondering if you you could be so kind and share your opinion. It’s 49% wv. -30%si.-21%li. Many thanks in advance.

6F986E6B-A344-47B8-B12C-91D6F79DD77B.jpeg
 

taxgenius

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I think if you just give your US tax ID it would do the work as I am in British and I gave my UK NIN and that was enough for them
And how on earth would they verify it ;)
 

Fantastic Mr Foxx

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Hi Mr. Foxx

Can you tell us more about your experience with Sartoria Sodano. Was everything allright and can your recommend him?
I have bespoken a few jackets from Sartoria Sodano. Some were really good, and others weren’t successful. If you’re considering commissioning anything from him, I would I advise you to be straightforward with him with your desires and requests. He is a good young tailor, but he requires a bit guidance when it comes to what a customer wants.

I will recommend him, but I think there are other young neapolitan tailors, like Sartoria Cuomo and Sartoria La Montagne...etc, who do a great job.
 
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Guyinbrown

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No I seriously think it is just a formality (at least now) as last year after I ordered bespoke shoe trees from a company based in Spain they also contacted me roughly a month later and asked my TAX ID.
 

ZRH1

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Here's a slightly off topic question -

I'm in the process of getting my length of LL everest cashmere made up in Naples. Apparently there's a new law on the books here where any international customers of an Italian company need to provide their "international tax id". While I have an EIN in the US, I cannot for the life of me figure out where to get an international tax id for my tailor here.

Anyone encountered this before? It does seem to be a fairly new thing (in the last 4 or 5 months)
the law is not new, it merely shows your tailor previously never reported your sale as taxable income. Fiscal controls are more stringent now and since January of 2019 all invoices must be digitally recorded, hence now, all tailors are more law abiding.
 

dieworkwear

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Hi, I am planing to commission a Neapolitan sports coat using Caccioppoli fabric no. 300147 and therefore was wondering if you you could be so kind and share your opinion. It’s 49% wv. -30%si.-21%li. Many thanks in advance.

View attachment 1338741
With a herringbone sport coat, I would check for the scale of the pattern. Esp with something like a wool-silk-mix, which can sometimes have a bit of sheen. Small herringbones can sometimes look like self-stripes. As always, good to get a swatch if you can. I would avoid anything that looks like it can look have a moire effect or something.
 

Guyinbrown

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With a herringbone sport coat, I would check for the scale of the pattern. Esp with something like a wool-silk-mix, which can sometimes have a bit of sheen. Small herringbones can sometimes look like self-stripes. As always, good to get a swatch if you can. I would avoid anything that looks like it can look have a moire effect or something.
Thank you. I have a sample of the fabric and the herringbone pattern width is 1.5cm. I have just made an illustrative photo where I display moire fabric together with the fabric (it’s more like oatmeal). I don’t see much shine but of course the fabric contains 30%silk...any comment?
 

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