Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[comrade]

Do you consider these shoulders "soft," "bigger/built-up," or neither?

View attachment 2017789

From this angle, no. Minor point, I prefer a flatter sleeve head.
Having never seen a Florentine jacket "in the flesh" I went by the pics
in the Corcos website. My one Rubinacci has much rounder shoulders
than the Corcos pics.

 

[yanagi]

From this angle, no. Minor point, I prefer a flatter sleeve head.
Having never seen a Florentine jacket "in the flesh" I went by the pics
in the Corcos website. My one Rubinacci has much rounder shoulders
than the Corcos pics.

The reason I asked is that IMO, that photo and angle makes it fairly obvious that there's no shoulder padding in the jacket at all. So it's not "built-up." But at the same time, yes, the sleeve head is slightly roped. So it's not "soft" either.

It is, however, Neapolitan because that's where the tailor (Tofani) is In fairness, I requested this "manica Tofani" at the first meeting. fwiw,

• my one Zizolfi jacket has a sleeve head similar to what @Crispyj's photo showed; and I believe that is Zizolfi's default sleeve head for sport coats if you don't have any special request.
• the 3 times I saw Gianluca Migliarotti at the trunk shows, every Zizolfi jacket he wore was
  1. amazingly good
  2. and had an obvious roped sleeve head.

The shirt sleeve/manica camicia is definitely a Neapolitan sleeve, but it's not the Neapolitan one; and it's not necessarily the one actual Neapolitans favor either. But I'm not at the Foo level, so YMMV.

 

[jonathanS]

An interesting article at Permanent Style about Sartoria Seminara, Vittorio Salino and the Florentine school.

https://www.permanentstyle.com/2023...ring.html?mc_cid=474bb301ab&mc_eid=277eb01ada

Another Florentine tailor - luigi cappelli

Sartoria Luigi Cappelli (@luigipaolocappelli) • Instagram photos and videos

419 Followers, 332 Following, 420 Posts - See Instagram photos and videos from Sartoria Luigi Cappelli (@luigipaolocappelli)

instagram.com

 

[Texasmade]

Another Florentine tailor - luigi cappelli

Sartoria Luigi Cappelli (@luigipaolocappelli) • Instagram photos and videos

419 Followers, 332 Following, 420 Posts - See Instagram photos and videos from Sartoria Luigi Cappelli (@luigipaolocappelli)

instagram.com

Cant get anymore Italian than Luigi Cappelli

 

[tdang]

Maybe you can be the first of the styleforum nerds to commission from F. Caraceni and post pictures 😎.

I did not have enough time to have anything made when I last visited in 2019. Nicolette mentioned she needed at least 3 weeks to have a fitting ready that I would be happy with. I recommend taking a long vacation and starting and ending your trip in Milan if you want a fitting.

Last time I emailed her I was also told 14 days for a fitting. I travel to EU once or twice a year, so I’m okay with not getting a first fitting on this trip, but it’d be really neat to get 2 fittings on the next visit (Kotaro is happy to do this).

 

[reidd]

The reason I asked is that IMO, that photo and angle makes it fairly obvious that there's no shoulder padding in the jacket at all. So it's not "built-up." But at the same time, yes, the sleeve head is slightly roped. So it's not "soft" either.

It is, however, Neapolitan because that's where the tailor (Tofani) is In fairness, I requested this "manica Tofani" at the first meeting. fwiw,

• my one Zizolfi jacket has a sleeve head similar to what @Crispyj's photo showed; and I believe that is Zizolfi's default sleeve head for sport coats if you don't have any special request.
• the 3 times I saw Gianluca Migliarotti at the trunk shows, every Zizolfi jacket he wore was
  1. amazingly good
  2. and had an obvious roped sleeve head.

The shirt sleeve/manica camicia is definitely a Neapolitan sleeve, but it's not the Neapolitan one; and it's not necessarily the one actual Neapolitans favor either. But I'm not at the Foo level, so YMMV.

I’ve never had a Florentine jacket (first one is in progress!) but it seems to me that the main distinction between them and Neopolitan shoulders is less the construction and more the extension.

There’s actually a huge range in construction in just the Neopolitan jacket shoulders that I’ve owned; from spalla camicia with zero padding, spalla camicia with what I’d call moderate padding, normale with roll with zero padding and normale with moderate padding.

 

[lordsuperb]

Last time I emailed her I was also told 14 days for a fitting. I travel to EU once or twice a year, so I’m okay with not getting a first fitting on this trip, but it’d be really neat to get 2 fittings on the next visit (Kotaro is happy to do this).

All good, I hope you get to really experience Italy. There's more to the country and debauchery to be had than just clothes.

 

[Texasmade]

All good, I hope you get to really experience Italy. There's more to the country and debauchery to be had than just clothes.

Calcio Storico: Florence's Exhilarating Local Game - Italy Perfect Travel Blog

You’ll never see anything more powerfully traditional in Italy than Florence's intense Calcio Storico games.

www.italyperfect.com

Hell yeah!!!

 

[ericgereghty]

Calcio Storico: Florence's Exhilarating Local Game - Italy Perfect Travel Blog

You’ll never see anything more powerfully traditional in Italy than Florence's intense Calcio Storico games.

www.italyperfect.com

Hell yeah!!!

I will just say that was not the debauchery I was hoping for when I opened the link...

 

[jonathanS]

Anyone have any experience using pascariello in Naples?

 

[jonathanS]

Calcio Storico: Florence's Exhilarating Local Game - Italy Perfect Travel Blog

You’ll never see anything more powerfully traditional in Italy than Florence's intense Calcio Storico games.

www.italyperfect.com

Hell yeah!!!

How to Plan a Trip to Venice During Carnival

The city-wide celebration is back and ready to transport revelers to the 1700s.

www.afar.com

Seemed like it’d be fun.

 

[Marshak]

Anyone have any experience using pascariello in Naples?

No, but what I saw coming from him seems excellent. Hurry up cause the master is at the end of the run.

 

[JohnMRobie]

Calcio Storico: Florence's Exhilarating Local Game - Italy Perfect Travel Blog

You’ll never see anything more powerfully traditional in Italy than Florence's intense Calcio Storico games.

www.italyperfect.com

Hell yeah!!!

If you time your trip to Florence up with the finals you can rent a car and get to Siena for the Palio on the tail end. (Tickets sell out insanely fast)

 

[reidd]

No, but what I saw coming from him seems excellent. Hurry up cause the master is at the end of the run.

Haven’t worked with him but pics look kind of like a cross between Zizolfi and Ciardi’s cuts. Very appealing!

 

[lordsuperb]

Calcio Storico: Florence's Exhilarating Local Game - Italy Perfect Travel Blog

You’ll never see anything more powerfully traditional in Italy than Florence's intense Calcio Storico games.

www.italyperfect.com

Hell yeah!!!

Looks interesting, have you participated or is this something on your bucket list?

These days I find myself wanting to unwind with a nice cocktail next to the ocean.

I’m also missing Spain and Cadaques.