Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[Crispyj]

Are you sure those are Corcos, and not michael Browne or huntsman?

Who am I kidding, those are Cifonelli.

 

[ericgereghty]

Prominent shoulders Corcos
View attachment 2017299
Neapolitan
View attachment 2017295

Might as well be wearing football pads!

 

[Crispyj]

Serious note. I have tried quite a few Neapolitan tailors. Their shoulders extend quite a bit compared to Corcos' house style.

The overall top block for Neapolitans are quite roomy. Corcos is quite trim, with minimal excess space. You know a tailor is good when there's shape while the jacket feels softer and lighter than most makers.

Zizolfi vs Steed sleeve head.

 

[jonathanS]

Serious note. I have tried quite a few Neapolitan tailors. Their shoulders extend quite a bit compared to Corcos' house style.

The overall top block for Neapolitans are quite roomy. Corcos is quite trim, with minimal excess space. You know a tailor is good when there's shape while the jacket feels softer and lighter than most makers.

Zizolfi vs Steed sleeve head.
View attachment 2017303

Interesting. I find corcos’s shoulders extend more the Neapolitan jackets. And have more room. But, that might be because they Neapolitan ones were made pre covid and shrank in the closet during covid (I promise that’s what it was). To me, even Dang’s jackets don’t look trim, they look comfortable with shape. From what I’ve seen, the top block of a Neapolitan jacket is trimmer than florentine.

Is the right tweed from steed? How does steed compare in terms of shoulder?

 

[Crispyj]

Steed shoulders are not extended, sleeve head is small and narrow. It looks drapey in the chest but suboptimal cut for movement compared to Italians.

 

[lordsuperb]

Serious note. I have tried quite a few Neapolitan tailors. Their shoulders extend quite a bit compared to Corcos' house style.

The overall top block for Neapolitans are quite roomy. Corcos is quite trim, with minimal excess space. You know a tailor is good when there's shape while the jacket feels softer and lighter than most makers.

Zizolfi vs Steed sleeve head.
View attachment 2017303

What’s your favorite outfit so far?

 

[jonathanS]

Steed shoulders are not extended, sleeve head is small and narrow. It looks drapey in the chest but suboptimal cut for movement compared to Italians.

Yeah, I’ve seen enough photos of steed, it’s not for me.

Update from above: after examining gazman’s photos, perhaps I am due to try another Neapolitan jacket. Only question is “who?” I have it down to 2 tailors.

 

[brax]

Yeah, I’ve seen enough photos of steed, it’s not for me.

Update from above: after examining gazman’s photos, perhaps I am due to try another Neapolitan jacket. Only question is “who?” I have it down to 2 tailors.

Maybe these guys? Just kidding. I stopped by to get recommendations on an excellent dry cleaner in the area.

 

[jonathanS]

Maybe these guys? Just kidding. I stopped by to get recommendations on an excellent dry cleaner in the area.
View attachment 2017323

Maybe these guys? Just kidding. I stopped by to get recommendations on an excellent dry cleaner in the area.
View attachment 2017323

Nicoletta is a great tailor! Imo, if you’re going to use a caraceni in Milan, she’s the obvious choice, but there are so many options in milan.

 

[lordsuperb]

Maybe these guys? Just kidding. I stopped by to get recommendations on an excellent dry cleaner in the area.
View attachment 2017323

She showed me around the sartoria when I last visited Italy. I hope you got the same treatment and more!

 

[jonathanS]

She showed me around the sartoria when I last visited Italy. I hope you got the same treatment and more!

Did you order?

 

[Crispyj]

What’s your favorite outfit so far?

Zizolfi 6ply db is nice. Waiting on Qemal and Corcos delivery October.

 

[lordsuperb]

This really is why it’s best to defer to people who have actually tried the tailors before instead of judging by pictures though. There’s typically no way of knowing what the wearers shoulders look like naturally to know how much they’ve been changed. There’s no basis for comparison in most cases. Between @Crispyj and @tdang though they’ve tried plenty of tailors to be able to share some honest feedback.

Relying on pictures alone is how you end up saying a jacket on a mannequin has shoulders that are too structured or something when it’s entirely unstructured.

Anyways here’s some pictures of Gazman in Corcos and some of him in his Mystery Bespoke from Naples.
View attachment 2017169 View attachment 2017171 View attachment 2017173 View attachment 2017175

Those suits from Naples aren’t my speed when it comes to formal suiting.

 

[lordsuperb]

Zizolfi 6ply db is nice. Waiting on Qemal and Corcos delivery October.

The Zizolfi cut is a mature and understated look, I can dig it.

 

[comrade]

The Zizolfi cut is a mature and understated look, I can dig it.

I agree. I spent 5 days in Naples in 2014. Didn't visit one sartoria.
I was interested in seeing and eating my way around a wonderful
city. I did wear an Isaia jacket part of the time.