Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[dieworkwear]

From the context, it sounds like he’s talking about button fly / zipper fly.

Perhaps @IJReilly can clarify, but I don't know how he would be able to tell if this is a button or zipper fly. I assume he's referring to the iGenty double button waistband.

This is an incredible looking suit, which I guess is partially down to the fact that your figure is great and probably easy to tailor for. However, I will never understand why bespoke guys seem to want all those buttons on the trousers. What is the purpose of that? I also might have gone with a single pleat, but that’s just my taste. Overall an incredible piece.

 

[edinatlanta]

Gonna have a contribution to this thread this PM. I am going to get a suit and a jacket for year-round wear in Atlanta. I've found if jackets are half-lined that's enough (and obviously a bit lighter weight).

Both are going to be staple colors I can wear every day. I think I will go with a light grey suit but still debating if I want a pin stripe. Already have a dark gray and two blues.

The jacket I want a slight pattern but again, something i can wear everyday with everything.

 

[ericgereghty]

I find the button proliferation drapes better. My tailor (Neapolitan) mentioned that I'm one of only a few of their American clients who goes with buttons vs. a zipper at the crotch. So I guess part of it is just what people are used to.

I will never understand the button fly on trousers. More power to any that have the patience for it, though.

 

[IJReilly]

Perhaps @IJReilly can clarify, but I don't know how he would be able to tell if this is a button or zipper fly. I assume he's referring to the iGenty double button waistband.

I am indeed talking about the double button waistband. Does it have something to do with the height of the waistband?

Personally I prefer button flys on wool trousers, and suit trousers. This somehow feels more luxurious, elegant and like something I imagine that well crafted trousers should have. Fully aware that this is all in my head, but those are my reasons. I prefer a zipper on all other trousers, probably because that’s what I’m used to and it feels right to me.

 

[The Chai]

I will never understand the button fly on trousers. More power to any that have the patience for it, though.

It stops the crotch fabric bunching up when you're sitting...which can look unflattering...or not ; -)

 

[IJReilly]

Gonna have a contribution to this thread this PM. I am going to get a suit and a jacket for year-round wear in Atlanta. I've found if jackets are half-lined that's enough (and obviously a bit lighter weight).

Both are going to be staple colors I can wear every day. I think I will go with a light grey suit but still debating if I want a pin stripe. Already have a dark gray and two blues.

The jacket I want a slight pattern but again, something i can wear everyday with everything.

Have you considered a very (and I mean very) faint glencheck? With the right fabric I find it looks incredible. Never found the right fabric myself though. Always dreamt of a dark grey glen check flannel suit...

 

[dieworkwear]

I am indeed talking about the double button waistband. Does it have something to do with the height of the waistband?

Well yes, but the two necessarily go together. If you have a very tall waistband, you probably have two buttons on it. And if you have two buttons, then you necessarily need a very tall waistband.

 

[dieworkwear]

Gonna have a contribution to this thread this PM. I am going to get a suit and a jacket for year-round wear in Atlanta. I've found if jackets are half-lined that's enough (and obviously a bit lighter weight).

Both are going to be staple colors I can wear every day. I think I will go with a light grey suit but still debating if I want a pin stripe. Already have a dark gray and two blues.

The jacket I want a slight pattern but again, something i can wear everyday with everything.

Fox Brothers has a relatively new weave called Fox Air, which is their version of tropical wool. I don't have anything in it, but was planning to get a suit in their taupe four-point star.

I imagine the fabric might be good for Atlanta's weather, as it's a very open weave. I think they have some exceptionally nice colors -- very cold shades of brown and green -- but you can also check out the grey.

Fox Air, Tropical Worsted, 300g

Fox Air is a tropical suiting cloth with a crisp, dry handle. Woven using a 2-ply uptwisted worsted wool to achieve a crease resistant cloth that is the ideal travel companion.

www.themerchantfox.co.uk

I personally like the hairline plain weave and four-point star the best. IMO, would make a wonderful suit.

 

[aristoi bcn]

What's your summer wardrobe my dear classicaly conservative friend?

Opsack/Mock Leno wool
Wool and mohair
Cotton
Linen
Cotton and linen
Wool and silk
Bamboo (not yet made out)

 

[ericgereghty]

Well yes, but the two necessarily go together. If you have a very tall waistband, you probably have two buttons on it. And if you have two buttons, then you necessarily need a very tall waistband.

Something I quite enjoy with my trews are a beefy waistband, but with a very extended slide closure. Best of both worlds for me. You get the firm waistband that “locks” you in place without sagging in the course of a day’s wear, but without the visual bulk of the buttons.
A very flattering aesthetic on high waisted ones, in my opinion.

 

[FlyingHorker]

I just have two hook-and-bar closures on my wide waistband pants. Very convenient and no sagging.

 

[edinatlanta]

Fox Brothers has a relatively new weave called Fox Air, which is their version of tropical wool. I don't have anything in it, but was planning to get a suit in their taupe four-point star.

I imagine the fabric might be good for Atlanta's weather, as it's a very open weave. I think they have some exceptionally nice colors -- very cold shades of brown and green -- but you can also check out the grey.

Fox Air, Tropical Worsted, 300g

Fox Air is a tropical suiting cloth with a crisp, dry handle. Woven using a 2-ply uptwisted worsted wool to achieve a crease resistant cloth that is the ideal travel companion.

www.themerchantfox.co.uk

I personally like the hairline plain weave and four-point star the best. IMO, would make a wonderful suit.


View attachment 1613852 View attachment 1613854 View attachment 1613853

Fox Brothers has a relatively new weave called Fox Air, which is their version of tropical wool. I don't have anything in it, but was planning to get a suit in their taupe four-point star.

I imagine the fabric might be good for Atlanta's weather, as it's a very open weave. I think they have some exceptionally nice colors -- very cold shades of brown and green -- but you can also check out the grey.

Fox Air, Tropical Worsted, 300g

Fox Air is a tropical suiting cloth with a crisp, dry handle. Woven using a 2-ply uptwisted worsted wool to achieve a crease resistant cloth that is the ideal travel companion.

www.themerchantfox.co.uk

I personally like the hairline plain weave and four-point star the best. IMO, would make a wonderful suit.


View attachment 1613852 View attachment 1613854 View attachment 1613853

So it was not available but... i went and they had this suit off the rack and they have the fabric in stock for MTM (so i suppose i cant *really* participate).

I ordered a 3piece no ticket pocket half lined side adjusters. Fabric is a nice loose open fabric. Its JUST as far as i want to take things. I maybe wish it was a touch lighter in shade but I dog the texture and whatnot. The jacket is a pinned otr one.

Also have a green and lavender check shirt being made into a button down. No photos.

 

[Encathol Epistemia]

I will never understand the button fly on trousers. More power to any that have the patience for it, though.

I choose to have all of my flies made with buttons, because I have a long history of being annoyed and angered by zippers. Mine seemed to become stuck, break or slip open all too often. I turned to buttons as an alternative. It does take longer to fasten, but I've found them more reliable, more resistant to failure and altogether more satisfactory. I understand why the zipper fly supplanted the button fly, but I've also found that the zipper fly is not for me.

When I told John Di Pietro that I wanted button flies on the first trousers that I commissioned from him, he was surprised as professed that he hadn't done that in decades and even sipped into routine by making them with zippers at first, but he quickly corrected this and has indulged me ever since. (Why wouldn't he? My checks always clear)

 

[Bromley]

Do you button fly devotees never piss yourselves while scrambling with the buttons in moments of urgency? Can't tell you how many photo finishes I've won by the sole merit of the zipper.

 

[usctrojans31]

On the buttons conversation, I take an extended waist close with a higher waistband because I find it drapes better on me. I'm 6'4' (193 CM) and pretty long torsoed, so it helps provide balance.

And on the button fly, no matter how good the zipper is, it will always fold awkwardly and give you a giant bulge at the worst moment possible. I've never experienced that with a button fly.