1. And... we're back. You'll notice that all of your images are back as well, as are our beloved emoticons, including the infamous :foo: We have also worked with our server folks and developers to fix the issues that were slowing down the site.

    There is still work to be done - the images in existing sigs are not yet linked, for example, and we are working on a way to get the images to load faster - which will improve the performance of the site, especially on the pages with a ton of images, and we will continue to work diligently on that and keep you updated.

    Cheers,

    Fok on behalf of the entire Styleforum team
    Dismiss Notice

Ongoing Bespoke Projects

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Sander, Jul 15, 2014.

  1. Leaves

    Leaves Senior member Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
    4,616
    Joined:
    Sep 13, 2010
    Location:
    Sweden
    Im not looking for a fit like the guy in the fawn jacket. I just don't see the appeal. The garments are always slightly more wrinkled at a Trunk Show. I have actually not worn the garment after the fitting. I always wear the item 4-5 times before sending any feedback or asking for additional tweaks. Still, would never go for that extremely fitted, athletic look. I prefer comfort and Kotaro knows this.
     
    7 people like this.
  2. sprout2

    sprout2 Senior member

    Messages:
    3,236
    Joined:
    Apr 13, 2012
    Location:
    Mom's basement
    U aint a real man unless u got this

    [​IMG]
     
    4 people like this.
  3. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

    Messages:
    7,583
    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2011
    You can get a very clean back without it being super fitted. This is a drape cut.

    [​IMG]

    I think the more important thing is how a jacket looks and feels in real life. Sometimes too much emphasis is put on still photos. I've seen Kotaro's work in person and it looks really good. Has a nice, youthful look to it without being too fashion forward.
     
    5 people like this.
  4. WillingToLearn

    WillingToLearn Senior member

    Messages:
    797
    Joined:
    Nov 2, 2014
    Having just spent two days traveling in a suit (in and out of planes, meetings, carrying a bag, etc.) with a really clean back, I'll take functional movement every time. There has to be room to move, in the front or the back, it has to be there.
     
  5. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

    Messages:
    7,583
    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2011
    

    The above is a drape cut. You can see the excess fabric draped along the armholes on the back.
     
    Last edited: Apr 5, 2017
  6. seferphier

    seferphier Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    47
    Joined:
    Apr 26, 2015
    That is impressive work. It's also a one piece back which makes it even more difficult to fit. Who is the maker?
     
  7. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

    Messages:
    7,583
    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2011
  8. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    15,837
    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2010
    Location:
    People's Republic of San Francisco
    The second link looks like a two-piece back to me. The stripes converge in the center.
     
  9. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

    Messages:
    7,583
    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2011
    

    Yes, it's a two-piece back. I was just commenting on how you can get a clean back without it being super fitted.
     
  10. David Reeves

    David Reeves Senior member Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
    3,111
    Joined:
    Feb 16, 2009
    Location:
    New York
    Had a go at some unconstructed jackets which is a switch.

    The "waterfall' shoulder was just something that happened without the padding, I suppose I could make it more of a feature with hand gathered pleats. The jacket is wool silk and linen Loro Piana "Proposte", very comfy but has a tendency to snag.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    JIMB, TinyThor, circumspice and 5 others like this.
  11. David Reeves

    David Reeves Senior member Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
    3,111
    Joined:
    Feb 16, 2009
    Location:
    New York
    

    I agree with this, and really tailoring is such a moving target when you are being very exacting. Someone's posture in the morning as opposed to the evening or maybe their waistline before or after lunch can certainly affect the look of coat.
     
  12. ATWright

    ATWright Member

    Messages:
    21
    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2017
    

    My tailor once told me about a client of his that would place coins in his trouser cuffs to weigh them down. Apparently he was a cop, because the intention was to stop the cuffs from flapping when he span around to punch someone. :slayer:
     
  13. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Senior member

    Messages:
    2,390
    Joined:
    May 30, 2009
    



    Frank Shattuck mentioned this method on the LL a few years ago.
     
  14. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Senior member

    Messages:
    10,840
    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2013
    Location:
    Los Angeles
    Really hope that we can get the pictures back from this thread
     
    usctrojans31 likes this.

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by