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Timaro

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Curious to see if there's any followup from KW's side. That would certainly not leave a good taste in my mouth.

As of right now, still no reply. I filed a chargeback, but if they want to refund the money they still can, and I would appreciate it. They've lost a customer, however.
 

ericgereghty

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As of right now, still no reply. I filed a chargeback, but if they want to refund the money the still can, and I would appreciate it. But they've lost a customer.
Definitely unfortunate. I've always been quite pleased with the service from KW. Bummed to hear yours was not up to par.
 

aaronatKW

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This is what I have written to T:

I am very sorry for the response delays that made me unable to offer timely delivery of your order. I was partly pulled away from work by some personal matters that have now resolved, which may explain but not excuse what happened. It’s below the standard of service I seek to give, or that I would want myself were I in your place. Your payment was refunded at the end of last week. Please tell me what else I can do, if anything, to make things better with you.
 

Jesse@KentWang

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@aaronatKW was quoted in an article today for the Wall Street Journal, the discussion was around the general casualization of the workplace and wearing untucked shirts to the office.

Link the article in case you subscribe to WSJ and full transcript of the article below: https://www.wsj.com/articles/please...rts-1535557029?mod=searchresults&page=1&pos=1

By
Jacob Gallagher
Aug. 29, 2018 11:37 a.m. ET

IN “THE SUN Also Rises,” Ernest Hemingway described bankruptcy as something that happens gradually, then suddenly. The same could be said for the casualization of men’s clothing. For decades, suits ruled the workplace. Then somewhere around the late 1990s, as “Casual Friday” became “Casual Everyday,” they didn’t. Indisputably, some offices still require suits. But in many workplaces around the country, ties are an endangered species, fleece vests are supplanting sportcoats and men have seemingly given up on tucking in their dress shirts.

Untucking, the laziest of styling choices, may have done more to irretrievably casualize the workplace than anything else. Like prep-schoolers liberated after the bell, men are letting their shirt tails fly everywhere now. (It’s one thing to untuck at a clam bake in Nantucket but quite another to do so for an M.B.A. meetup at the Tuck School of Business.) Suits may be going the way of the dodo and sneakers may be infiltrating the cubicle, but can a man at least deign to tuck in his shirt on weekdays? Apparently not.


The threat of an Untucked Nation has been rising for over a decade. As early as 2004, the New York Times reported on the growing wave of businessmen and celebrities unfurling the bottom fifth of their shirts. Six years later, the trend was extended when Chris Riccobono, a former employee of GE Healthcare, started Untuckit, a brand with an evangelizing, call-to-action name that sells shirts designed to be worn all the way out. Mr. Riccobono’s tailoring strategy is simple: His shirts are cut shorter across the bottom with tails that dip less dramatically. The brand will have 39 stores this week with plans for more, and labels like J. Crew and the Gap also sell shirts conceived to defy a belt. The Great Untucking has taken hold.

‘For many men, it’s not sloth but an anxious desire to disguise a gut that’s behind their disinclination to tuck.’

“The new normal” is how Ian Anderson, 30, who works in apparel development in San Francisco, described the phenomenon: A tucked-in shirt, he said, “is becoming less of a thing out here with the hyper-casualization of the workplace,” adding that his own reluctance to tuck dates back at least five years. In dress-code-allergic San Francisco, he said, “just having a collared shirt at all is going to put you in the top 25 percentile of dressers.” Like many men, especially those who haven’t seen the inside of a gym since ’08, he finds it more comfortable to work without a taut shirt tugging at his sides. But heed these words: Comfort is the enemy of style.

According to Aaron Mack Schloff, vice president of New York-based clothing label Kent Wang, the issue with an untucked shirt is that once you sit down at work, “it wrinkles immediately, you look messy.” That clean look you had when you left the house? By your first morning meeting it’s gone, replaced by a chaos of crinkles that makes it look like you dragged your shirt off the floor.

“Instead of aspiring to look elegant, you look like it’s Sunday afternoon, you’re living in squalor or you’re still in college and are cramming for exams,” said David Coggins, author of “Men and Style: Essays, Interviews and Considerations.” The idea of a shirt designed specifically to be untucked, he added, justifies men’s worst lazy instincts.

Of course, for many men, it’s not sloth but an anxious desire to disguise a gut that’s behind their disinclination to tuck. But this borderline “maternity” look fools no one. Unless you are legitimately obese, a tucked shirt looks better. It’s no accident that men who frequently make Hollywood’s best dressed lists—Ryan Gosling, Brad Pitt, even the somewhat unsvelte Nick Offerman—are all adherents of the neat tuck. But neat doesn’t mean a suffocating Urkelian squeeze. A proper shirt tuck needn’t be as taut as a bedsheet; you should be able to reach for your desk phone without feeling like you just pulled your back out.

If the Untuckit pitch has already won you over, at least go halfway on that tuck. Tan France, the style guru on Netflix’s “Queer Eye,” steers the show’s clueless contestants toward the “French Tuck”—front tails in, back tails out, a look also endorsed by Mr. Pitt. We still prefer a full tuck, but society is pretty far gone so we’ll reluctantly meet you halfway.

Write to Jacob Gallagher at [email protected]
 

ericgereghty

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Regrettably still my only KW sport coat. Going to have to amend that situation soon.

8B7797CD-E56A-4837-BD47-4A08F5E227AE.jpeg
 

ericgereghty

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Cheers. Fabric is Drago's "Cool Blue" hopsack. Darkest navy. Options were high gorge, 3r2, full canvas, half lined, wide lapels (only available w/high gorge I believe), no shoulder padding, rounded breast and round patch hip pockets, and minimal pick stitching I believe.
 

ahtynes

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Cheers. Fabric is Drago's "Cool Blue" hopsack. Darkest navy. Options were high gorge, 3r2, full canvas, half lined, wide lapels (only available w/high gorge I believe), no shoulder padding, rounded breast and round patch hip pockets, and minimal pick stitching I believe.

I think as of late wide lapels are available with regular gorge.
 

ericgereghty

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I think as of late wide lapels are available with regular gorge.
To the best of my knowledge, that was not the case as of 3-4 months ago, with th regular gorge only offered in 8cm width.
Would be a very positive development if it now is available on the regular gorge.
 

jdp234

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To the best of my knowledge, that was not the case as of 3-4 months ago, with th regular gorge only offered in 8cm width.
Would be a very positive development if it now is available on the regular gorge.

standard gorge isn’t available with anything other than 8cm, contrary to the form. For those wondering, no they will not tell you this at any point until you receive a jacket with skinny lapels.
 

ericgereghty

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standard gorge isn’t available with anything other than 8cm, contrary to the form. For those wondering, no they will not tell you this at any point until you receive a jacket with skinny lapels.
It’s to the point that I would happily update the form. Don’t even need money...just comp my next suit :cool2:
 

classicalthunde

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Just wanted to share my new KW black tie rig that I ordered for my wedding, and send a thank you to @aaronatKW for all his help along the way


sSMDwEK.png



6qZxLhI.png


Details:
Tux - Kent Wang MTM VBC black s130 wool, grosgrain 10cm peak lapel, 1-button, jetted pockets, double vents
Shirt - Brooks Brothers regent fit, pique front, spread collar
Tie & Cummberbund - Kent Wang black grosgrain
Studs & Cufflinks - Kent Wang reversible MOP/onyx studs, KW onyx cufflinks
Shoes - Allen Edmonds black Park Ave w/ high shine
 

Timaro

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This is what I have written to T:

I am very sorry for the response delays that made me unable to offer timely delivery of your order. I was partly pulled away from work by some personal matters that have now resolved, which may explain but not excuse what happened. It’s below the standard of service I seek to give, or that I would want myself were I in your place. Your payment was refunded at the end of last week. Please tell me what else I can do, if anything, to make things better with you.

I can confirm that Aaron did write this email on August 26. He also wrote two shorter emails on August 24 and August 25 confirming that he'd refunded my money. I appreciate the apology, but like I said before, I'm done.

It's a shame, because the first suit really did work out well...after alterations. To wit, a before photo (apologies for the crappy selfie, but New York apartments have tiny bathrooms. You'll be able to see the difference):

suit_before - 1.jpg

After (apologies for the slightly less crappy selfie):

suit_after - 1.jpg

The only alterations in this photo are the ones I dictated to Aaron for the second suit. (Note that the sleeves were also shortened by 1cm after this photo was taken -- a borderline adjustment that we weren't sure about on the first try.)

So while I appreciate the apology, the delay was ultimately not what made me demand a refund for the second suit. The inexcusable part, for me, was being told that the tailor -- who had seen the first suit on my body -- was wrong. Had I been shipped the second suit with the measurements specified it would have been a terrible fit, and there would have been no time to fix it.

Like I said, I'm sad. The first suit turned out well. But there's just a limit to my patience.
 
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