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grade

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I disagree. I think the strong stripes are business-y enough that they need a softening touch, especially given that it's a hard-finished, lightweight worsted. In a flannel, then I could see a darker tie.

Sugarbutch has it right about the cut of O/O's clothes, but Ianiceman has it right about the ludicrous casual stuff he'd post.

Gmm, I think it's a venal sin to go sockless with that navy blazer rig. I think it's a bit vulgar to go sockless in wool trousers (I think I stole that idea from John Tinseth, though maybe not), but it's a rule that has stood me in good stead.


So, the idea of "softening" a business suit doesn't really compute, as far as I'm concerned. As I see it, a business suit calls for business accessories, and a casual suit calls for casual accessories. There's a spectrum, to be sure, but pin stripes fall squarely on the business end--particularly, as you point out, with a worsted, non-flannel. I'm probably a little more rigid about these things though...
 

justinkapur

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But think it calls for a darker, more business-y tie.
I disagree. I think the strong stripes are business-y enough that they need a softening touch, especially given that it's a hard-finished, lightweight worsted. In a flannel, then I could see a darker tie. Sugarbutch has it right about the cut of O/O's clothes, but Ianiceman has it right about the ludicrous casual stuff he'd post. Gmm, I think it's a venal sin to go sockless with that navy blazer rig. I think it's a bit vulgar to go sockless in wool trousers (I think I stole that idea from John Tinseth, though maybe not), but it's a rule that has stood me in good stead.
So, the idea of "softening" a business suit doesn't really compute, as far as I'm concerned. As I see it, a business suit calls for business accessories, and a casual suit calls for casual accessories. There's a spectrum, to be sure, but pin stripes fall squarely on the business end--particularly, as you point out, with a worsted, non-flannel. I'm probably a little more rigid about these things though...
Thanks gents. I can see both sides of the argument and I should further explain. The suit is 1/4 lined with patch pockets. It's a business cloth constructed in a non business sort of way. Its a perfect hybrid for me and can take a dressier sort of appearance or a more relaxed. I opted for the second today but I could see myself wearing a white shirt and navy tie.
 

YRR92

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So, the idea of "softening" a business suit doesn't really compute, as far as I'm concerned. As I see it, a business suit calls for business accessories, and a casual suit calls for casual accessories. There's a spectrum, to be sure, but pin stripes fall squarely on the business end--particularly, as you point out, with a worsted, non-flannel. I'm probably a little more rigid about these things though...

One of the tailored outfits I was raised thinking was "normal" was worsted (possibly pinstriped) suit + light colored Hermes tie + optional bit loafers. So I view this through that lens, and it seems like a more-tasteful/SF-approved version of the same idea. I don't see the need for everything to be completely serious 100% of the time – not all business has to be conservative business, and not all business dress has to be conservative business dress.

Dunno if I'm down for hip patches on that cloth, and I really don't know if you can count 1/4 lining as a casual detail.
smile.gif
, but "u do u" has done right by you so far, so I say rock it.

I will say, I think my saying it "needs" a softening touch was an overstatement.
 
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Claghorn

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Excellent Helden!

From yesterday

1000


Howard Yount
Exquisite Trimmings.
 
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GMMcL

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2. The shirt's color. A white shirt with spread collar worn with a jacket that has some structure comes off as a bit formal.


Thanks, Kulata. All good points.
FWIW, the shirt is pink.
Not sure if that matters. (I''m happy to move on)
 
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Claghorn

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Matters slightly imo
 

Pliny

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Quote:
Gmm, I think it's a venal sin to go sockless with that navy blazer rig. I think it's a bit vulgar to go sockless in wool trousers (I think I stole that idea from John Tinseth, though maybe not), but it's a rule that has stood me in good stead.
u can't get it that way .

What I Wore Yesterday:


700


imo You've got a nice Gestalt going on with your fits Heldo. You've pulled off a standard rig with great aplomb.
 

TM79

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o/o's fit just wasn't contemporary at all. But his pants draped wonderfully and his jackets fit cleanly and consistently. He always looked like a man of authority who also enjoyed his clothes.


He could also take criticism when Manton and some others would (rightfully) rake him over the coals for some dreadful tie and PS choices.
 

EliodA

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@heldentenor I'll echo @kulata's and Clag's sentiments. Trousers especially are excellent!
 

in stitches

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Justin - That green shoe fit was superb.

GMM - I dont think the people you mentioned looked any better than you did in regards to the specific point of wearing a more structured rig together with calf loafers and no socks. If you were to go back and look, and this would be very tedious and time consuming, but it is something I have undoubtedly noticed, you would see that from the advent of the thumb system, many well respected members posted fits that got 15 thumbs, 10 thumbs, or less. And usually it was when they did something similar to what you did. An otherwise great fit, with some particular piece that stood out as off.

People may not have voiced it in posts, but you could always tell from the thumb count when a fit was found suspect. I would assume that when you have someone who has garnered a certain reputation, or has been around a long time, viewers just assume that the decisions they make are intentional, and while the viewer may not like it, they don't feel any use in pointing out the "error" as its just chalked up to, "thats how they roll." But who knows, maybe said SFer would have been like, huh, thats a good point, I shouldn't have paired those things together. We'll never know because no one said anything.

Other people don't get that space. And while at first that seems unfair, the truth is, its kind and beneficial. Would you rather post things that people find to be off and get no feedback? Just 8 or 11 thumbs and never find out why people are not connecting to your fit on a particular day? There is nothing better than getting feedback. No one is obliged to agree with every bit of feedback they receive, but at least it gives you something to think about, and it provides you with a clear understanding when and why something did not click for the viewers.

My advice would be to chuck the comparisons to other members out the window. When you get feedback or critique, instead of thinking about the last SF legend who got away with the same crime, think about why people are saying what they are saying. After that, you are welcome to agree with them, or politely disagree. I disagree with feedback plenty, and other times I see the point being made as more sensible than my opinion, and make changes because something is pointed out that I had not realized. The conclusion you come to is entirely up to you. But if you want to have the opportunity to at least have the chance of considering peoples feedback, you have to get the feedback to begin with. I think its much more valuable to have people honestly telling you what they think is good or bad, than to have people say nothing and just think to themselves, oh, I don't love that, but I best not say anything because thats just how that guy rolls.

Lastly, while the focus of that last fit shifted to the shoe choice, lets not forget that everyone agreed that outside of the shoes the rig was outstanding. Like, true top level achievement. Thats nothing to sneeze at.

My 2 cents anyways.
 
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heldentenor

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Your best fit as far as I am concerned. Whatever cut the jacket and pants are make sure you get more
icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif
Excellent Helden!

imo You've got a nice Gestalt going on with your fits Heldo. You've pulled off a standard rig with great aplomb.


@heldentenor I'll echo @kulata 's and Clag's sentiments. Trousers especially are excellent!

Thank you all very much. The trousers are Howard Yount, a size down from what I usually take. I think (with the exception of Rota and Panta) I'll take a 30 rather than a nipped-in-the-waist 32 from now on. It also helps to have a human being rather than the trunk of your car/windowsill and a self timer as your photographer!


Jacket and trousers look nice. Not sure about the graph check shirt with that combo though. The scale seems a bit too formal for the rest to my eye.

I agree that the shirt is pushing the formality envelope here. Oxford cloth or fine brown stripe were my other options; wanted to give this a try.

Clags, love that tie. Is it ancient madder? Vanda has one in a similar pattern that I'm giving serious thought to grabbing.
 
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