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The Things You Think You Know: Myth Busting in Classic Menswear

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Caustic Man, Jul 29, 2016.

  1. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Senior member

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    I'm guessing that what you mean by this is that you would prefer that everything complements everything else, without slavishly mimicking it.
     
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  2. smittycl

    smittycl Senior member

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    Love it! Always do whatever makes her happy.
     
  3. smittycl

    smittycl Senior member

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    Very similar terms in some cases. I always proceed mentally from CBD and move outward. Would not think of wearing a smart business suit with mismatched belt and shoes. I consider that matching and the watchband to be complimentary.
     
  4. gs77

    gs77 Senior member

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    You... Haha...
     
  5. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Where are strollers worn these days? In context, I mean.
     
  6. Butler

    Butler Senior member

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    Whenever a daytime event, formality wise, does not require a Morning Coat; a state funeral or a royal christening does - the Stroller will be correct attire, echoing the seriousness of the occasion.
    [​IMG]
     
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  7. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    For mere mortals, Butler. The Queen wears ermine capes, but they're costume for everyone else. My point is that the Informal category (as defined here) is essentially anachronistic at this point. If we're going to acknowledge modern context by putting dinner jackets into the Formal category, then Informal really shouldn't be included at all.
     
    Last edited: Aug 2, 2016
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  8. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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    Interestingly, as far back as the stroller dates, it's a wonderful way to look non-standard and still not out of place. If you are attending a day wedding, and the dress code permits, a stroller is suit-like enough that you won't look like a fashion poof, and different enough to stand out just a little. @Kent Wang 's stroller would be a good example...

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Aug 2, 2016
  9. Roycru

    Roycru Senior member

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    As the subject of "strollers" has been brought up, here's a picture from August 1986, the last time I wore my grey and black striped trousers. I am also wearing an (almost) black Brooks Brothers jacket (part of a three piece Brooks Brothers "Special Order" tropical worsted suit that I got in 1976), a Brooks Brothers black, grey, and white striped tie, grey vest, and white OCBD shirt (yes, I'm wearing a button down shirt) and black Johnston & Murphy cap toe shoes. Since it's August, I am not wearing the grey spats that I got at a shop on Chicago in 1967.

    Still have everything in this picture (except the shoes which have been replaced with a similar Allen-Edmonds pair) and everything still fits, but I don't think that I will have an occasion to wear the striped trousers (or the spats) again. Still wear the (almost) black suit to funerals (the only time that I wear it) and sometimes wear the grey vest with other things.

    [​IMG]
     
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  10. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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    Looks good and not at all out of place in a modern context.
     
  11. Butler

    Butler Senior member

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    Sorry,but that is not a stroller - it would never include a white waist coat! (Whereas, to the surprise of many, a Black Tie rig can!) [​IMG]
     
  12. gs77

    gs77 Senior member

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    @Roycru - that picture... Now I can't get the song out of my head...

    "I got one foot on the platform,
    the other foot on the train.
    I'm going back to New Orleans
    to wear that ball and chain."
     
  13. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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    It's not white.
     
  14. Butler

    Butler Senior member

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    It certainly appears white on my monitor - does not matter anyhow, it's not black!
    [​IMG]
     
  15. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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    Yes, but buff and dove gray are acceptable. [​IMG]
     
  16. Roycru

    Roycru Senior member

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    White vests (with dark suits) are for breakfast, grey vests (with dark jackets and striped trousers) are for lunch, and dinner jackets are for dinner time. Unlike some made up "rules" these are actual rules that were in a Rule Book.

    Wearing a white vest in April 1968.........

    [​IMG]

    ......and in May 2016 (also wearing the same tie as in the August 1986 picture).

    [​IMG]

    (Also wearing the same Hamilton Railway Special pocket watch and chain and Santa Fe Railway employe lapel pin in all three pictures.)
     
  17. Butler

    Butler Senior member

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    White vests (with dark suits) are for breakfast, grey vests (with dark jackets and striped trousers) are for lunch, and dinner jackets are for dinner time.  Unlike some made up "rules" these are actual rules that were in a Rule Book./quote]





    White, grey and other waistcoats are fine with a dark suit almost any time - the misunderstanding is due to the fact that a Stroller (Black Jacket as it is called in the UK or City Dress or Stresemann in other parts of Europe) is a specific mode of dress which is worn correctly with a black SB or DB waistcoat, Of course these days one can do whatever one fancy. :bigstar:

    Informal funeral:

    :bigstar:[​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Steven Hitchcock Black Jacket and Cashmere trousers

    Photo;http://sartorialnotes.com/
     
  18. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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    My interpretation is different. The historical provenance for wearing waistcoats of gray or buff is strong. Stresemann himself wore it with a waistcoat of the same color as the jacket, true, but he also wore a wing-collar shirt. This hardly means that this also must be worn with it. Things are always evolving and men correctly assumed that the Stresemann, or troller, was a corollary of the morning suit. Morning suits were often paired with gray or buff waistcoats and the stroller followed suit.

    See here the morning suit worn with light colored waistcoat and the stroller in the same. Both in historical context.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  19. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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    These also show the stroller as a corollary to the morning suit with it's light colored waistcoats.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  20. vida

    vida Senior member

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    Completely agree
     

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