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High-twist wool with glen plaid pattern - okay for a sport coat?

bsyde82

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Having a sport coat made, and have already ordered, but I can still change my order. I wanted a basic glen plaid pattern, and the one glen plaid at the shop I liked most that wasn't too heavy was high-twist wool. I had never heard of it before, and I didn't think much of it, although the weight and breathability appealed to me.

glenplaid.jpg


This is my second sport coat made and I'm trying to learn from mistakes of the first one. One of which was, failing to visualize what the jacket would like just based on the fabric swatch. I've been reading how high-twist isn't the best for a sport coat, but those comments seemed to be talking about solid colors only. Would a pattern like this mitigate any concern here? All other details are sports coat oriented.

Where I live, it never gets too cold so I want something I can wear year round. I like the texture of the thicker wools (>320g+) but it's too warm for my climate, although this one is 300g. I like this glen plaid but will it look weird in high-twist cool? I'm concerned about the texture. Like if this had some sheen worsted wool appearance, I feel like that wouldn't look great.



Some of the jackets here were my inspiration. The cream and grey jackets, I like that texture, from what I can see.
 

Sreezy36

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Having a sport coat made, and have already ordered, but I can still change my order. I wanted a basic glen plaid pattern, and the one glen plaid at the shop I liked most that wasn't too heavy was high-twist wool. I had never heard of it before, and I didn't think much of it, although the weight and breathability appealed to me.

View attachment 2152027

This is my second sport coat made and I'm trying to learn from mistakes of the first one. One of which was, failing to visualize what the jacket would like just based on the fabric swatch. I've been reading how high-twist isn't the best for a sport coat, but those comments seemed to be talking about solid colors only. Would a pattern like this mitigate any concern here? All other details are sports coat oriented.

Where I live, it never gets too cold so I want something I can wear year round. I like the texture of the thicker wools (>320g+) but it's too warm for my climate, although this one is 300g. I like this glen plaid but will it look weird in high-twist cool? I'm concerned about the texture. Like if this had some sheen worsted wool appearance, I feel like that wouldn't look great.



Some of the jackets here were my inspiration. The cream and grey jackets, I like that texture, from what I can see.



Glen check works exceptionally well for both an odd jacket and suit depending on the context. However, I'm not sure if that cloth selection (assuming dugdale-tropicalair) is the good choice. It definitely screams "suiting" as opposed to a "jacketing." IMO, there are much better options for summer glen check or pow patterns. Some of which are high twists. Others are WSL, Linen, and Panama/Tropical Plain weave.
 

bsyde82

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Glen check works exceptionally well for both an odd jacket and suit depending on the context. However, I'm not sure if that cloth selection (assuming dugdale-tropicalair) is the good choice. It definitely screams "suiting" as opposed to a "jacketing." IMO, there are much better options for summer glen check or pow patterns. Some of which are high twists. Others are WSL, Linen, and Panama/Tropical Plain weave.

May I ask why this particular isn't the best choice? Being inexperienced with this, it's hard for me to evaluate from a fabric swatch. What would make a better option?
 

Sreezy36

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May I ask why this particular isn't the best choice? Being inexperienced with this, it's hard for me to evaluate from a fabric swatch. What would make a better option?

I would say that they because of the small subtle nature (scale) of the check and texture of the cloth it looks more akin to a worsted wool suiting. For a glencheck Jacketing, a more defined texture and/or lager scale check is preferred. But to each their own.
 

LJ1891

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you might want to put your order on hold with your tailor and ask around in the unfunded liabilities cloth thread about your question. there are many knowledgeable people there.

Fox Air is good and works as separates. i really really like this stuff.

Huddersfield has the worsted alsport II bunch with good glen check in it as well. its not high twisted, but still lighter weight. i don’t have personal experience with it though.
 
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Despos

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Look at the other samples in the sample book. Are they for suits or jackets? Are there any other cloths in the book you would use for a jacket and not a suit? You will find sample books that are specific to suitings or jackets. Ask to see a sample book that is jacketing only. Some cloths can only be used for jackets as the weave/yarns lack tensile strength to be worn as trousers.
Texture and weave of the cloth you chose will look like an orphaned suit jacket worn as a separate. This cloth is limiting in use IMO. Limiting in how many colors and types of trousers and shirts that work with it. Cloth you picked has a higher color contrast in the pattern than the photo posted. This contributes to making the cloth less versatile.
Other consideration is the look is a lighter color on top with darker trouser on the bottom. Look at the reference photo you posted.
This combo is different than a dark jacket with lighter contrasting trousers. You can do either but just be aware of effect and how it works with your body type and skin tones.
Do you have several sport coats in your wardrobe?
i recommend a jacket that works with several trouser colors. Optimal is a mid tone jacket that pairs with a lighter color trouser or a darker trouser. This creates more looks and options.
Know what trousers you will wear with the jacket before ordering the jacket. If it’s hard to find colors or textures of cloth that work with the jacket, you won’t wear the jacket as much. If you only find one trouser you like that works with the jacket, it’s limiting the utility of a sport coat.
 

ZRH1

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I strongly vouch against such a suiting fabric to be used in such a setting. I have a casual jacket in fresco glen plaid and I don't like it at all, hence wasted.
 

comrade

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I recently had a Sport Coat made. It came out perfectly.
I picked the fabric from a swatch. However, I didn't pay
enough attention to the weight. It's very heavy. I live in
the Bay Area. A lighter fabric would have been more versatile.
 

DorianGreen

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As others have already said, it doesn't seem the right choice for your purpose, I would go for a wool silk linen blend with a coarser texture and a larger scaled pattern. There's a plenty of these fabrics from many weavers with weights under the 300g.
 

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