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East Sicily Tailors

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by UrbanComposition, May 27, 2016.

  1. chobochobo

    chobochobo Senior member Moderator

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  2. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Senior member

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    I have this one made up. It's one of my favorite suits to wear when its cold outside.
     
    1 person likes this.
  3. sprout2

    sprout2 Senior member

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    What do you wear when it's cold inside?
     
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  4. SimonC

    SimonC Senior member

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    I think it's Holland & Sherry Victory flannel?
     
  5. UrbanComposition

    UrbanComposition Senior member

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    Some nice looking pieces coming together, fellas. I have another suit on the way from Arrigo, and a suit & sportcoat from Palmisciano that should be arriving mid-February. And then a trip to Sicily in October.
     
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  6. ottmt89

    ottmt89 Member

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    Another blazer in hardyminnis hopsak and a flannel trousers. I let the images are commented alone

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 26, 2017
    3 people like this.
  7. aristoi bcn

    aristoi bcn Senior member

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    The cut is different from your tweed jacket, right? Lapels look slimmer and quarters less opened. I prefer the cut of the former, honestly. Sleeves are too long, don't you think so?

    I like the trousers, by the way, what is the practical difference between inward and forward pleats? Aesthetically I prefer the former but I don't own any trouser with this feature. What is the difference in terms of slimming/widening the figure compared to forward pleated trousers?
     
  8. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Senior member

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    Draper's/VBC
     
  9. ottmt89

    ottmt89 Member

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    Many thanks. They are two different models. The tweed, I preferred a jacket "important" and less contoured. Since I will use sweaters and vests.

    For the blazer I wanted a jacket very slender and the pulite.il blazer lines has reveers little smaller than the tweed jacket, with very marked waist, a high armholes and very narrow .And a totally natural free shoulder padding. Perhaps the sleeve may seem long because I hold the buttons open.

    The pants have double pleats, turned inward. Further helps to slim the figure.
     
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  10. chobochobo

    chobochobo Senior member Moderator

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    correctomundo
     
  11. SartodiNapoli

    SartodiNapoli Senior member

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    One is called English pleat, normal” one is the Italian one, the one we see most of the time. Do not know as I studied on Italy, do not know about the English one.

    Never seen an Italian tailor doing those, this seems the first time and sure was ordered that way.

    http://www.styleforum.net/t/294692/pleated-pants-forward-vs-reverse-revisited

    I got fun with this post:

    • [​IMG]
    • Posts: 414
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    • Location: London
    a) Forward (aka, traditional, proper, normal, what your skilled and experienced tailor does if you say "pleats" and do not elaborate further).
    b) 1. Forward;
    b) 2. All of the above.
    c). Depends entirely on your build, including the size of your arse and how much venilation your penor and nutsack require.

    Reverse pleats are just so 80s. In a bad way.




    Regards

    Geezer

    I try only to post on subjects that I am deluded enough to think I know something about.

     
    Last edited: Jan 28, 2017
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  12. ottmt89

    ottmt89 Member

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    @SartodiNapoli is right, I have ordered in this manner

    Sicilian tailoring is authentic priceless treasure. The Sicilian aristocracy of British vocation. So many Sicilian tailors in the 20-30 years have made school in London while another part was formed in Naples. Much of Sicilian tailors mastered both English techniques Neapolitan techniques. Many old Sicilian tailors mastered the technique of slanted darts. Technique that Scholte was a great master, now in London has remained only a memory. The great masters of this english techniques were in Catania: Risicato, Lo Re,Idonea, Tabacco and Caponetto (the latter is still alive and active. As for Messina is much more informed than me carpu65 but I think that Pirri and Arena knew the techniques of English tailoring. See the clothes pinstripes disfigured by the front pleats of great tailors leaves me sad and makes me think that the tailoring is going deeper level.
     
    Last edited: Jan 28, 2017
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  13. UrbanComposition

    UrbanComposition Senior member

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    Here are two recent ones from Arrigo:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 28, 2017
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  14. chobochobo

    chobochobo Senior member Moderator

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    Nice, but isn't the first one from your first visit?
     
  15. mosivy

    mosivy Well-Known Member

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    @UrbanComposition The tweed is gorgeous!
     
  16. UrbanComposition

    UrbanComposition Senior member

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    Whoops, I guess I should have said recent "pictures". The second one, the tweed, is one that I received a month or so ago.
     
  17. carpu65

    carpu65 Senior member

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    Correct,Gioacchino Pirri that was a great master tailor was very British in his style.
    He had some loyal UK customers too in 50s and 60s and used only the best british fabrics.
    P.S.
    My trousers have all forward pleats "all'Inglese"; in Italy is unusual,but in Sicilian tailoring,are frequent.
     
    Last edited: Jan 29, 2017
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  18. UrbanComposition

    UrbanComposition Senior member

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    Straight outta Catania.

    [​IMG]

    Abraham Moon shetland tweed. Soft, spongy, delicious stuff.
     
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  19. purplefinelinen

    purplefinelinen Member

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    That looks terrific - not unlike the Agnelli check the LL ran a while ago.
    Is it a 3 roll 2?
     
  20. aristoi bcn

    aristoi bcn Senior member

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    I don't understand the appeal of scratchy tweed in a time where sportcoats are worn mainly indoors, but as all commissions from Urban Composition I like the cut a lot.
     
    1 person likes this.

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