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CAVOUR Official Community - Discuss Tailoring, Shirting, Shoes & More - Official Affiliate Thread

regalpirate

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What is the maximum a jacket be shortened? Also can you alter the waist but only in the front? Can not ask my tailor because of a 2 week vacation.

Is the black/white jacket cut different than others? The front quarters are sooo long I can not wear it of the rack. I did not have this feeling when I tried on the gunclub.
How tall are you and what size are you buying? General rule is that the coat should cover your backside and sometimes front is a bit lengthier than the back.
 

kevinsvindland

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What is the maximum a jacket be shortened? Also can you alter the waist but only in the front? Can not ask my tailor because of a 2 week vacation.

Is the black/white jacket cut different than others? The front quarters are sooo long I can not wear it of the rack. I did not have this feeling when I tried on the gunclub.

Depends on the skill of the tailor, But can be shortened quite a bit.

However you risk ******* up the pattern matching if you have to move the pockets. And the balance between jacket hem and pocket bottom is something to consider.

All jackets (and trousers for that matter) are cut by the same cutting pattern. There are tolerances and margins. Fabrics also play a part, light ones feel larger, heavy ones feel slimmer. Cutting patterns are not adjusted to compensate for the weight of individual fabrics. (Imagine what that would do to prices..)

Checks/patterns vs solids may also visually look longer or shorter without actually being longer or shorter.
 

DNL

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How tall are you and what size are you buying? General rule is that the coat should cover your backside and sometimes front is a bit lengthier than the back.


Plus I have a longer torso and shorter arms & legs. My prefered jacket length is about 75 cm. Any shorter will expose more of my seat and any longer will shorten my legs even more visually. Usually in the front my jackets end about where my thumb ends. That's probably the best tradeoff for my body proportions.

The first jacket I tried from cavour was the gunclub in size 50. Great fit overall, but just a tiny little bit too tight at the backside and under the armpits for an everyday comfort (not talking about unwearable tight here). Length was as described above. I tried a 52 then and it felt much better, without beeing overly loose or too long.

Then I ordered the black/white PoW jacket in size 52 and it felt like another half or full size up. The fronts extends past my thumb by about 2,5 - 3 cm.

Thank you @kevinsvindland

There are tolerances and margins

Maybe that is my issue here. The gunclub in 50 measures 74,5 - 75 cm in the back and the 52 did not feel much longer (can't measure now).

Maybe it was a mistake to go with a size 52 at all and a 50 would be better when I led out the back a bit.
 

ZRH1

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could I ask for pictures of this Garment Bag in use? Specifically with regards to the attachment/position of the hanger hook when in use. Thank you.


do you mind if I bump this?

I would like to find out how it looks when the suit is hanged, as I find some garment bags, for instance from Arterton, are wonderful but the solution to hold the hook is quite odd in my opinion, in their case even requiring a separate strap to even hold it.

Thank you.
 

kevinsvindland

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do you mind if I bump this?

I would like to find out how it looks when the suit is hanged, as I find some garment bags, for instance from Arterton, are wonderful but the solution to hold the hook is quite odd in my opinion, in their case even requiring a separate strap to even hold it.

Thank you.
The hanger hook does not hang, it just rests between the top of the zipper and the strap. (Image 4)

The only picture I have at hand of it in use is this one.

1706275576944.jpeg
 

ZRH1

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The hanger hook does not hang, it just rests between the top of the zipper and the strap. (Image 4)

The only picture I have at hand of it in use is this one.

View attachment 2119017
thank you, that is very kind of you to send the image. Does this mean it hangs loose and only the closed zipper prevents it to collapse when vertical?
 

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Camillo

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I've tried Cavour for the first time when I saw blazers in long sizes on offer. I think I found a new favorite brand and I look forward to seeing more jackets in the future in sizes long.

I'm 186cm tall with longer than average arms, that's why I seek for those few extra centimeters in the overall length. IMO size 150 is even a tad too long but shortening the jacket by 1,5cm shouldn't negatively affect its balance, but it should improve the overall proportions. Adjusting the sleeve length is also no problem.
IMG_2214.jpg
 

Zerase

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I've tried Cavour for the first time when I saw blazers in long sizes on offer. I think I found a new favorite brand and I look forward to seeing more jackets in the future in sizes long.

I'm 186cm tall with longer than average arms, that's why I seek for those few extra centimeters in the overall length. IMO size 150 is even a tad too long but shortening the jacket by 1,5cm shouldn't negatively affect its balance, but it should improve the overall proportions. Adjusting the sleeve length is also no problem.
View attachment 2121341
I wouldn't change the length of the jacket. It looks good!
 

Rolf

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Anyone got any experience with the hopsack blazer this season? How “winter” is it compared to the summer versions?

If you could shed some light on this Kevin that would be great. Also how it differentiates against the more common lambswool twill jackets in your range.

Thank you
 

MrAristocat

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Does anyone have experience with Cavour's British Flannel trousers? It says on the website the flannel is woven for them especially, but doesn't say which mill or weight. I generally have trouble with Italian flannel, which seems to wear off fast sometimes, but I understand British flannel is usually sturdier. I have very nice trousers from Cavour in an Italian flannel from a few years back but I have had them repaired recently in the crotch with the generous leftover fabric that was kept from shortening the trousers.
 

kevinsvindland

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Anyone got any experience with the hopsack blazer this season? How “winter” is it compared to the summer versions?

If you could shed some light on this Kevin that would be great. Also how it differentiates against the more common lambswool twill jackets in your range.

Thank you
Very much a fall and winter cloth.
Main difference to the lambssool is the look of the weave, diagonal twill vs «square» hopsack.

The myth of the year around navy jacket should be dead and buried long ago. (Most places in the world..)

Our summer jackets would look weird with flannel trousers, both due to contrast in surface and in fabric weight.
 

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