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CAVOUR Official Community - Discuss Tailoring, Shirting, Shoes & More - Official Affiliate Thread

NadalRG

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I have a question for you seasoned Cavourheads. I have a couple of sport jackets in size 50 that I purchased within the past two years. The shoulder width and chest circumference are perfect for both, but I recently started noticing how long these jackets are. I wore them quite a lot, but recently their lengths have been bugging me. I'm 5'7", 160 lbs and have an average muscular build. They extend just past my thumbs. The problem is that the patch pockets are so close to the bottom, and I think shortening the jackets might throw off the look. Does anyone of a similar height/build have the same experience? Sorry for the picture quality.

View attachment 2076951
That's the problem with us short guys. I'm 5'6" and have the same issue with RTW jackets. I think for guys like us it's not only better, but probably necessary to go the MTM or bespoke route.
 

JohnMRobie

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I have a question for you seasoned Cavourheads. I have a couple of sport jackets in size 50 that I purchased within the past two years. The shoulder width and chest circumference are perfect for both, but I recently started noticing how long these jackets are. I wore them quite a lot, but recently their lengths have been bugging me. I'm 5'7", 160 lbs and have an average muscular build. They extend just past my thumbs. The problem is that the patch pockets are so close to the bottom, and I think shortening the jackets might throw off the look. Does anyone of a similar height/build have the same experience? Sorry for the picture quality.

View attachment 2076951
Don’t use your thumb to figure out how long your jacket should be. Hard to be sure from the cropped picture but length looks about right and like it covers your seat.
 

kevinsvindland

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Would someone be able to help me understand what "winter" hopsack entails? I always associate hopsack w/ summer but I wonder if this specific fabric can be suitable year-round, but more so in the summer since I am in search of a spring to fall navy sportcoat.


Also not sure how the above differes from this Englihs hopsack, other than the slight difference in colour.

Both fall/winter fabrics.
One we had made up.
The other one is from M&E

Both quite similar.
 

kevinsvindland

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I have a question for you seasoned Cavourheads. I have a couple of sport jackets in size 50 that I purchased within the past two years. The shoulder width and chest circumference are perfect for both, but I recently started noticing how long these jackets are. I wore them quite a lot, but recently their lengths have been bugging me. I'm 5'7", 160 lbs and have an average muscular build. They extend just past my thumbs. The problem is that the patch pockets are so close to the bottom, and I think shortening the jackets might throw off the look. Does anyone of a similar height/build have the same experience? Sorry for the picture quality.

View attachment 2076951
The pattern is exactly the same.
So only differences are fabric weight and production margin (0,5cm)
 

kevinsvindland

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That's not how it works... I work in procurement as my day job. VAT in Ireland is 23%, mswt (Swiss vat) is 7.7%, in US it's 0. Currency wise CHF is much stronger than Eur or USD, historically speaking so it should be cheaper, but cavour charges in USD anyway, and even after the conversion Ireland works out like 25% cheaper. Also cavour are Norwegian, not that any of that matters since all these countries are in the single market through EEA.

I'll give you a better example. Go on the Vass website and try ordering a pair of shoes from Ireland and then Switzerland. Then report back.

I'll be taking my business elsewhere, as 6 months ago, the process was the same as say Vass, and they suddenly changed it.
For the time being Switzerland is more expensive, because it has to follow the USD/USA regional presets in our system.

But once the new platform goes live, hopefully soon, we will be able to change it and make new rules for Switzerland as a separate region.
 

DonRaphael

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Would someone be able to help me understand what "winter" hopsack entails? I always associate hopsack w/ summer but I wonder if this specific fabric can be suitable year-round, but more so in the summer since I am in search of a spring to fall navy sportcoat.


Also not sure how the above differes from this Englihs hopsack, other than the slight difference in colour.

First of all, I don't believe in year-round/all season fabrics. There's no such thing that can work equally as well during SS as FW and still maintain warmth and appropriate visual characteristics both seasons.

As for the FW hopsack, I have two jackets made up in that fabric from Marling & Evans. The best way to describe it is hopsack with a flannel like handle/look/feel to it. Porous and loosely woven with flannel finishing.

If you've handled Dugdale flannel from the English Town & Classics bunch book, that's how it looks/feels but mor porous and not as thick obviously. I like it for casual SCs. Beware though, it's not the warmest of jackets because of its porosity, but great if you want something less spongy and thick than Shetland Tweee or Harris Tweed, yet not as soft as Merino Tweed.
 
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Refundyoda

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For the time being Switzerland is more expensive, because it has to follow the USD/USA regional presets in our system.

But once the new platform goes live, hopefully soon, we will be able to change it and make new rules for Switzerland as a separate region.
But that is the correct way to do it, you're just doing it wrong... USD/CHF should not matter I.e. Shipping ex VAT. Both USA and CH should be DAP (buyer responsible for duty)

This could even be universal if you're shipping from Norway. Always use DAP, what you're trying to do is use DDP for EU and DAP for non EU. Even though at the check out DDP works out cheaper than DAP.... Which was not the case 6 months ago.
 

kevinsvindland

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Black Friday has been busy and fun!

Thanks for all the support!

One thing concerned me though, Ricky has requested a substantial raise, and to have therapy sessions covered by the company.
And having a glance at the questions and requests in the inbox, I do sympathize…😂
 

kevinsvindland

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While on that topic, I was inspired to contribute to the mental health of the customer care dept over at Berg & Berg..
BB5BCEB1-5ED8-4438-93F2-F9F3F512A819.png
 

sussi

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Black Friday has been busy and fun!

Thanks for all the support!

One thing concerned me though, Ricky has requested a substantial raise, and to have therapy sessions covered by the company.
And having a glance at the questions and requests in the inbox, I do sympathize…😂
I would love to see some of these questions. Maybe you could make a seasonal segment about it. I am sure you talking about it in a video, that reel would be a hit!
 

shoewarma

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Don’t use your thumb to figure out how long your jacket should be. Hard to be sure from the cropped picture but length looks about right and like it covers your seat.
Yeah, my seat is pretty much covered entirely. I don't think anything looks wrong, but it just doesn't feel right at this length. Oh well, I'm just gonna have to live with it.

That's the problem with us short guys. I'm 5'6" and have the same issue with RTW jackets. I think for guys like us it's not only better, but probably necessary to go the MTM or bespoke route.
If I had that kind of access and dough to get bespoke tailoring, I would. I've never had trouble finding RTW jackets that are of correct length, but the Cavour ones seem longer than necessary.

The pattern is exactly the same.
So only differences are fabric weight and production margin (0,5cm)
you-talking-to-me-asking.gif
 

kevinsvindland

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Yeah, my seat is pretty much covered entirely. I don't think anything looks wrong, but it just doesn't feel right at this length. Oh well, I'm just gonna have to live with it.


If I had that kind of access and dough to get bespoke tailoring, I would. I've never had trouble finding RTW jackets that are of correct length, but the Cavour ones seem longer than necessary.


you-talking-to-me-asking.gif

 

NadalRG

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If I had that kind of access and dough to get bespoke tailoring, I would. I've never had trouble finding RTW jackets that are of correct length, but the Cavour ones seem longer than necessary.
I had the same issue with Natalino. So, we're shooting in the dark as short fellas lmao.
 

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