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on the canon they have spot metering and evaluative metering, plus a setting for how it factors in background light.
I switched to spot metering, aimed at the darkest part of the jacket and then snapped. Until I did that I used a lightroom filter I ran on all shadows. I finally set everything to manual, snapped at 3 stops on either side of the 0 point and use that as a reference.
Some people say the gray card is the key to getting that exposure right, but I've tried it on a number of items and it didn't seem to help.
Spot metering also doesn't work on a dark subject because the camera meter will overexpose to bring the dark subject up to a midtone. If you are working in a studio setting with controlled lighting then the exposure should not change (significantly) with the subject. This is the ideal situation for those of you taking product shots for eBay. If the lighting is changing (e.g. ambient through a window, flash with TTL metering) then it gets more tricky.