Bostonian shoes

[marc237]

I have had serious problems with Bostonian durability. They appear to be poorly made and fall apart all too quickly. Hence, while a cheap initial investment, they amortize very poorly.

I echo the sentiments of those who suggest trying on AEs and then ordering off e-bay. One of the nice things about e-bay is that AE sells seconds at less than 50% of retail. The defects are typically invisible to all but the most observant and even then are trivial and the service is top notch. Highly recommended.

 

[grimslade]

I'd heard Bostonian had stopped making leather-soled shoes altogether, which means they don't make a proper dress shoe at all any more. Of course, depending on your field and station in life, that may not matter to you. But I've also found the leather on recent Bostonians to be pretty plasticky and second-rate.

 

[masqueofhastur]

Originally Posted by marc237

I have had serious problems with Bostonian durability. They appear to be poorly made and fall apart all too quickly. Hence, while a cheap initial investment, they amortize very poorly.

I echo the sentiments of those who suggest trying on AEs and then ordering off e-bay. One of the nice things about e-bay is that AE sells seconds at less than 50% of retail. The defects are typically invisible to all but the most observant and even then are trivial and the service is top notch. Highly recommended.

Manufacturing defects or the AEs on ebay are second hand?

 

[grimslade]

Originally Posted by masqueofhastur

Me neither, what's this?

What's characteristic of the leather not being good? I've noticed with some cheap shoes at Winners or Pay Less that they seem to have as much stability as canvas shoes. Bostonians, Aldos, Florscheims and such didn't have that but I haven't looked over $200 for shoes before.

"This" is, well, you could fill a forum with it... but the short version is, don't wear the same shoes two days in a row. Let them rest for at least a day between wearings, and while they're resting, put shoe trees in them--wooden ones, ideally.

Your shoes will last longer and look better, and (although I find this is rarely mentioned in these parts) probably won't smell as much, should that be a problem for you.

As for "not being good," good leather should look, well, like leather. Not plastic (unless they're patent leather shoes, which normal dres shoes should not be). Good leather is capable of taking a high shine if you put some effort into it, but the leather itself is not "shiny." it should be supple without being soft and it should have some depth to the finish. Take a gander through the shoe Appreciation thread. Many people have never knowingly encountered good leather, so it's a reasonable question. But it's easier to see than to say what the difference is...

 

[grimslade]

Originally Posted by masqueofhastur

Manufacturing defects or the AEs on ebay are second hand?
Allen-Edmonds, the company, has an eBay store through which they sell brand new manufacturers 2nds. But their standards are pretty high for what constitutes a "first." There are of course used shoes available as well. And Grapevinehill, another ebay storefront, also sells new AEs from time to time.

 

[marc237]

Originally Posted by masqueofhastur

Manufacturing defects or the AEs on ebay are second hand?
Slight imperfections in the production. AE itself does not, as far as I know, sell used shoes on ebay. One can buy used AEs on ebay. One can also buy heavily discounted brand new AE's on ebay from sellers other than AE. I have more than 6 pairs of AE shoes and have acquired all on ebay. edit: Grimslade was somewhat faster than I.

 

[masqueofhastur]

Originally Posted by grimslade

"This" is, well, you could fill a forum with it... but the short version is, don't wear the same shoes two days in a row. Let them rest for at least a day between wearings, and while they're resting, put shoe trees in them--wooden ones, ideally.

Your shoes will last longer and look better, and (although I find this is rarely mentioned in these parts) probably won't smell as much, should that be a problem for you.

Is this just for dress shoes, or does that apply to all shoes? Do you get the trees from the same maker as the shoe? I think I've seen some in shops that looked like they were too big for the shoe and deforming them.

As for "not being good," good leather should look, well, like leather. Not plastic (unless they're patent leather shoes, which normal dres shoes should not be).

Is patent leather still good quality, or should it not be in dress shoes because it isn't good?

Good leather is capable of taking a high shine if you put some effort into it, but the leather itself is not "shiny." it should be supple without being soft and it should have some depth to the finish. Take a gander through the shoe Appreciation thread. Many people have never knowingly encountered good leather, so it's a reasonable question. But it's easier to see than to say what the difference is...

Shoe shining, something else I'm not familiar with.

 

[masqueofhastur]

Originally Posted by grimslade

Allen-Edmonds, the company, has an eBay store through which they sell brand new manufacturers 2nds. But their standards are pretty high for what constitutes a "first." There are of course used shoes available as well. And Grapevinehill, another ebay storefront, also sells new AEs from time to time.

Is first/second the same type of standard used for virgin/non-virgin olive oil, or is it a quality ranking system?

 

[marc237]

Originally Posted by masqueofhastur

Is first/second the same type of standard used for virgin/non-virgin olive oil, or is it a quality ranking system?

Firsts would be considered free of imperfections, seconds have slight imperfections. As both Grimslade and I have noted, because AEs standards are so high, it is often not easy to find the imperfection that cause AE's QC folk to label the shoes as "seconds." I picked up a pair of Colton's and I could find the imperfection at first (turned out to be a slight problem at the heel, but you had to really want to find it).

 

[grimslade]

Originally Posted by masqueofhastur

Is this just for dress shoes, or does that apply to all shoes? Do you get the trees from the same maker as the shoe? I think I've seen some in shops that looked like they were too big for the shoe and deforming them.

You can get them from the same maker, but this is another cna of worms. Woodlore is a company owned by Allen-Edmonds. They make good cedar shoe trees in a variety of sizes. Just find some that fit the shoes in question. They should be snug, but they should not deform the shoes.

All shoes will benefit from being rested, but with leather shoes it is perhaps particularly important.

Originally Posted by masqueofhastur

Is patent leather still good quality, or should it not be in dress shoes because it isn't good?.

There's nothing "wrong" with patent leather, but in men's shoes it should be for formalwear or tuxedos only. Some would argue not even then, but we don't have to go there. Don't wear patent leather shoes unless you're in a tuxedo.

Originally Posted by marc237

AE itself does not, as far as I know, sell used shoes on ebay. One can buy used AEs on ebay.

Just for the record, AE's official, company-run ebay store is here.

 

[NoVaguy]

Originally Posted by masqueofhastur

Is first/second the same type of standard used for virgin/non-virgin olive oil.

I doubt that shoe manufacturer's use a food quality standard.

basically: first quality - acceptable for sale in Nordstrom, etc.

second quality - not acceptable. The standard varies from company to company. For AE, the seconds are typically very, very good quality shoes. typically a color difference or slight stitching error.

 

[marc237]

Originally Posted by masqueofhastur

Shoe shining, something else I'm not familiar with.

There are posts on the forum that explain how to do it well. I generally do not enjoy the process and, because I work very close to a shoe store that has very good shiners, I have my shoes shined frequently to protect the leather and to maximize the appearance.

 

[masqueofhastur]

Originally Posted by NoVaguy

I doubt that shoe manufacturer's use a food quality standard.

basically: first quality - acceptable for sale in Nordstrom, etc.

second quality - not acceptable. The standard varies from company to company. For AE, the seconds are typically very, very good quality shoes. typically a color difference or slight stitching error.

So a second will feel the same as a first I tried on in HR, just will be noticeable if for some reason someone's kissing my feet?

 

[marc237]

Originally Posted by masqueofhastur

So a second will feel the same as a first I tried on in HR, just will be noticeable if for some reason someone's kissing my feet?

For the higher end makers, the fit ought be the same. Also, most folk kissing your feet are unlikely to opine that they saw a defect. But seriously, for most seconds, the defect is really a non-issue.

 

[grimslade]

Originally Posted by masqueofhastur

So a second will feel the same as a first I tried on in HR, just will be noticeable if for some reason someone's kissing my feet?
What he said. It shouldn't affect the fit. At most, it will have some small cosmetic blemish.