Time for Some Big Boy Shoes

[DaddyP]

After taking a good bit of time learning about shoes over the past year, I've decided to take the plunge and by my first pair of real shoes. Currently, I have a pair of black captoe derbies, burgundy penny loafers, and medium brown chukkas.

When I got the derbies second hand, I knew little about shoes. They are chunky, low quality and poor. My feet ache after a few hours, and by end of day, at an office job mind you, I can't wait to peel them off. I'm ready to ditch them and get a proper pair of dress shoes.

My wardrobe is minimal rifght now. An old chaecoal grey suit, grey and olive dress pants, and light khaki chinos. I plan to expand this to navynand medium grey suits ajd paints, but working on losing a little weight (yes, that old tale). Anyway, I'm lookkng for oxfords in black or daek brown. My choices are these three.

Antonion Meccariello on soft square last.

Vass on U last

Carlos Santos on 387 last.

What are your thoughts on style and color? Lasted shoe trees (see crazy expensive)? Metal toe taps?

 

[TheIronDandy]

Honestly, I wouldn't get oxfords for my first "big boy shoes". Oxfords are a staple of the business suit look - they tend to look off with most other outfits. Things like brouging or a less sleek last doesn't really change it - wearing oxfords without a suit tends to look a bit off, and wearing them with casual trousers can make you look like a sales-bro. Don't get me wrong, the shoes you're considering are all beautiful, and any of them would serve you well when wearing a suit, but if they're your first nicer shoes they're not the most flexible kind.

Of course, "classic menswear" is very niche today, so most people might not notice or care that you wear oxfords without a suit. The benefits of casualization, I suppose. The only people who will really care are slightly fussy men on the internet. If you are set on oxfords, I would definitely avoid black ones, as they are the most formal, and really only go with charcoal or navy suits. I quite like the Carlos Santos ones, though the patina does make them a little bit flashy.

That said, if you're willing to consider, I'd get some good derbies or loafers, probably in a dark brown. These can be worn with most suits, but won't look as out-of-place with odd trousers or even with dressy chinos. Some people even make it work with denim.

 

[DaddyP]

Honestly, I wouldn't get oxfords for my first "big boy shoes". Oxfords are a staple of the business suit look - they tend to look off with most other outfits. Things like brouging or a less sleek last doesn't really change it - wearing oxfords without a suit tends to look a bit off, and wearing them with casual trousers can make you look like a sales-bro. Don't get me wrong, the shoes you're considering are all beautiful, and any of them would serve you well when wearing a suit, but if they're your first nicer shoes they'1a1are not the most flexible kind.

Of course, "classic menswear" is very niche today, so most people might not notice or care that you wear oxfords without a suit. The benefits of casualization, I suppose. The only people who will really care are slightly fussy men on the internet. If you are set on oxfords, I would definitely avoid black ones, as they are the most formal, and really only go with charcoal or navy suits. I quite like the Carlos Santos ones, though the patina does make them a little bit flashy.

That said, if you're willing to consider, I'd get some good derbies or loafers, probably in a dark brown. These can be worn with most suits, but won't look as out-of-place with odd trousers or even with dressy chinos. Some people even make it work with denim.

You know what? That's probably a good idea. I wanted to replace the black derbies because they just kill my feet. I have a pair of black slacks I wear regularly, and I know nothing else would go with them. But, I could probably pick up some brown derbies and keep the black ones for the time being. I'll look at oxfords when I get a couple more suits.

That said, do you have any derby recommendations?

 

[TheIronDandy]

I'm in the EU so I mostly look at local brands (less hassle with returns).

https://myrqvist.com/collections/derbys Myrqvist is my go-to brand these days. I have fancier shoes from brands like Crocket&Jones, and bespoke shoes costing thousands (clothing is one of my big interests in life, some people have classic cars, I have a classic wardrobe ) but I keep coming back to my Myrqvist loafers and chukkas. The design is classic, understated, and the price to quality ratio is very good. You could actually go for black derbies in pebble grain, the leather will tone them down a bit.

https://www.thenobleshoe.com/en-se/...-9131-split-toe-patina?variant=49604273504579 Carlos Santos make these through The Noble Shoe in Sweden. Not familiar with the model, but the guy who runs the business is a true enthusiast when it comes to footwear. They also carry other brands, but prices tend to go up...

The classic UK brands Crocket&Jones and Loake are usually safe bets as well. They can be found through various resellers across the world.

 

[The Noble Dandy]

My suggestion would also be to go for some dark brown derbies. Carlos Santos 9381 Gary Coimbra would be my recommendation in terms of price/quality ratio and how versatile they are (with rubber soles instead of leather ones).

 

[DaddyP]

I'm in the EU so I mostly look at local brands (less hassle with returns).

https://myrqvist.com/collections/derbys Myrqvist is my go-to brand these days. I have fancier shoes from brands like Crocket&Jones, and bespoke shoes costing thousands (clothing is one of my big interests in life, some people have classic cars, I have a classic wardrobe ) but I keep coming back to my Myrqvist loafers and chukkas. The design is classic, understated, and the price to quality ratio is very good. You could actually go for black derbies in pebble grain, the leather will tone them down a bit.

https://www.thenobleshoe.com/en-se/...-9131-split-toe-patina?variant=49604273504579 Carlos Santos make these through The Noble Shoe in Sweden. Not familiar with the model, but the guy who runs the business is a true enthusiast when it comes to footwear. They also carry other brands, but prices tend to go up...

The classic UK brands Crocket&Jones and Loake are usually safe bets as well. They can be found through various resellers across the world.

Thanks for that. That Carlos Santos is a nice looking shoe, that I'm not sure if I want grain or not. They're out of calf in my size.

Alternatively, what do you think of this three eyelet from Vass? I think it looks fantastic, but I'm concerned it might be a bit top uptight for a workhorse office shoe, which is my aim now.

London 3-eyelet * F - Vass Shoes

London 3-eyelet * F - The plain fronted 3-eyelet London derby shoes feature a slightly more modern look compared to the classic 3-eyelet London derby shoe. This model also brings increased comfort and practicality, giving its wearer a stylish look. Manufactured with the traditional hand-welted...

vass-shoes.com

 

[DaddyP]

My suggestion would also be to go for some dark brown derbies. Carlos Santos 9381 Gary Coimbra would be my recommendation in terms of price/quality ratio and how versatile they are (with rubber soles instead of leather ones).

Thanks, I actually like that one quite a bit!

 

[ValidusLA]

If we are talking brown derbies, Vass Budapesters on P2 are some of my favorite shoes.

And lasted trees from Vass are very reasonable.

Also - don't buy Vass U last without trying on. It's an aggressive last and frankly I think P2 and F are more in line with the brands identity.

 

[TheIronDandy]

Thanks for that. That Carlos Santos is a nice looking shoe, that I'm not sure if I want grain or not. They're out of calf in my size.

Alternatively, what do you think of this three eyelet from Vass? I think it looks fantastic, but I'm concerned it might be a bit top uptight for a workhorse office shoe, which is my aim now.

London 3-eyelet * F - Vass Shoes

London 3-eyelet * F - The plain fronted 3-eyelet London derby shoes feature a slightly more modern look compared to the classic 3-eyelet London derby shoe. This model also brings increased comfort and practicality, giving its wearer a stylish look. Manufactured with the traditional hand-welted...

vass-shoes.com

I think your description is spot on, it's a fantastic looking shoe, but it's quite sleek and dressy (I prefer thinking of them as dressy rather than uptight). It will work well with tailoring, not so well with slacks. Maybe look into a 5-eyelet from Vass instead if you like the brand? Maybe something like https://vass-shoes.com/shop/alt-wien-p2-4/ or https://vass-shoes.com/shop/alt-wien-p2-7/ ? Or if you want an alternative look: https://vass-shoes.com/shop/norweger-p-copy12/ Of course, you could go for a black 5-eyelet as well.

 

[DaddyP]

Thank you! I think I have a good shortlist now. But, I do have one last question. Looking at the Norweger, what's your take on lug soles? I feel they gelive the shoe a heavy appearance. I could see them pairing wel with more casual outfits, especiallu jeans. But, do you think they would appear off for typical office dress?

 

[TheIronDandy]

I actually missed those soles! I would probably avoid those for shiny leather shoes, they work better on things like waxed suede or coarser leather - and indeed with denim or workwear chinos, not office dress.

Probably most people won't care, but you're right, it's not really intended to go with business wear, even business casual.

 

[Ypuh]

I've got two pairs of Carlos Santos, a Harald (Oxford) and Gary (Derby) and you can't beat them for the money. These are two of my best fitting shoes (note: I've sized down 0.5 from my TTS). They are also my most formal options, one being black and the other a moss green/grey. This means they both see the least wear out of my entire collection, which is a bit sad really. The business world (IT consultant) simply is a lot more casual nowadays.

I can definitely recommend Carlos Santos. Also, I do like Oxfords and even manage to wear them occasionally with nice denim jeans, but I wouldn't recommend going black AND cap-toe AND Oxford. You don't want to mismatch formality too much.

The Loake Oxfords I wear with jeans sometimes:

The Carlos Santos derbies, which are a bit too formal for my daily workwear unfortunately, but would be fine with a suit (they look more black in reallife):

The Carlos Santos Harold that I'd only ever wear with a dark suit, or maybe try once with a black jeans on a X-mas party with a semi-formal dresscode or something (these are my best fitting pair):

And finally, some C&J Pembrokes, some brogue derbies. These by far see the most wear out of the bunch, would like fine with a sportscoat, odd trousers, or a casual suit. These would be my pick if I could only take one, and are also comfortable for all-day wear (so are the others above, but I'd consider those more dress shoes, and this a casual pair suited for everyday wear).

Vass provides some nice options in the latter category. Carlos Santos offers both some more formal options, as well as fashion forward ones. My pick would probably be something without a cap-toe and not too dark a brown.

 

[William Kazak]

Living in the Midwest and south of Chicago, I am finding brown leather shoes definetly more practical than tan.

 

[DaddyP]

Living in the Midwest and south of Chicago, I am finding brown leather shoes definetly more practical than tan.

What's your take on oxblood versus brown? Nearly as flexible? I'm finding a few in that color, too, and I personally prefer it, bit again, I'm thinking about flexibility.

 

[William Kazak]

What's your take on oxblood versus brown? Nearly as flexible? I'm finding a few in that color, too, and I personally prefer it, bit again, I'm thinking about flexibility.

Oxblood worked for me. I had them in the past along with brown, black and tan. Black and brown were the most versatile, useful for a variety of situations.