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Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

pascoa341

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Hi there, new here to styleforum. I need a new suit for weddings and general business wear. I do not feel very comfortable in the very slick salesperson suits that you tend to get dressed in if you go into your local suitshop (At least here in the North West UK) As I mentioned I am a NOOB, but I do know that I want something different from the standard suit. I'd like it to be slightly more sporty (should be wearable without a tie) and preferably in a bit of a funky slim fit (secretly I love 70s suits, but I don't think I could away with this anymore). What are good places to buy a decent suit in the Northwest of England (I live in Cumbria) that have styles that are a bit 'out there' and that can dress you up decently? Price range is more or less up to £400/ £500 so probably off the peg. Thanks!
 

tuckered

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Hi styleforum, been reading a while, decided to post with something I couldn't come up with an answer on.

My height is between 5'7" and 5'8", which seems to be the cutoff point for a Short or Regular suit jacket, generally speaking. I have short arms, however, and find that when dealing with function sleeve buttons, a short jacket is much better fit. However, I know a suit should "cover your ass" so to speak, and sometimes the Short jackets don't do that.

I bought a suit online in a 38R, as opposed to 38S. I'm curious/concerned however if this suit jacket is too long. I know the informal rule of cupping your hands around the bottom edge, but with my short arms, that's not always a good sign. I also know the rule of measuring from collar bottom to jacket bottom: this coat is 31". My "Dressing the Man" size should be 30", but with different proportions on people I know this isn't always doable.

So my question is, does my suit jacket fit? I've provided pictures. I'm not concerned about sleeve length, as there are non functional buttons that can easily be moved, and the pants are unfinished at the moment, so that's why they're baggy. Both pants and sleeves are rolled up/tucked in for now. I'm mainly concerned about the length. I have a great tailor and I can have things like sleeve circumference and taking in at the waist done great. My main concern is on the length, as that's not so easily tailored. Here's the photos. I've upped the brightness etc. to easier see the coat's edge:
 

JubeiSpiegel

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Anyone have experience with Ferragamo loafers, the leather sole kind? Are they worth the Ferragamo outlet price of $325 - $375?

I don't think this brand gets too much love on SF, but I like the lace ups I have from them already.
 

Kid Nickels

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Anyone have experience with Ferragamo loafers, the leather sole kind? Are they worth the Ferragamo outlet price of $325 - $375?
I don't think this brand gets too much love on SF, but I like the lace ups I have from them already.


personally I like Ferragamo's when I get a good deal on them... I have more than a few pairs of lace ups and loafers but $325-$375 doesn't hit my sweet spot for a "deal" IMO.
 

wiarumas

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I'm looking for some advice on buying an OTR suit. Seems to be hard finding a worker that actually knows about suits and not just working a random job (and going custom or to a high end store isn't an option price wise).

I'm about 5'9" and about 185lbs. I have a pretty athletic build with pretty decent shoulders and a slight barrel chest (not really but similar). Similar body to that of an out of season baseball player.

I try on a size 40R and it fits really well. I could be the mannequin for the shoulders. However, there is a bit of a gape above the button in the lapel. It bends out very slightly rather than being a flat V. Depending on how I stand and if I fix it by pulling it down a bit, it goes away... but if I lift my arms a bit, for example, it rides back up and doesn't fall back in place. Its not extreme, but it might be a quarter to a half an inch too tight I'm thinking. The one worker at the one store said I should get a 40 but in a brand that might hide it more generously because "it looks perfect in the back and everywhere else."

I try on size 42R and I'm swimming in fabric. It looks acceptable in the shoulders, but there is a lot of extra fabric in the waist and back near the arms. It just looks big and not as flattering, but I'm thinking it could be fixed by a tailor. The worker recalled their earlier statement and said I should go with the 40R because it looks better on me (assuming they don't think I'd get it tailored at all).

My question is, do I get the 40R or the 42R and see what they could do with it? I have a feeling it could be a lot of fabric.

Suit is a Hickey Freeman Milburn at a Neiman Marcus Last Call.
 

JubeiSpiegel

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personally I like Ferragamo's when I get a good deal on them... I have more than a few pairs of lace ups and loafers but $325-$375 doesn't hit my sweet spot for a "deal" IMO.


Deals are scarce in my neck of the woods, it might have to do. How do you feel about the loafer's construction and quality?
 

musicguy

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I'm looking for some advice on buying an OTR suit.  Seems to be hard finding a worker that actually knows about suits and not just working a random job (and going custom or to a high end store isn't an option price wise).

I'm about 5'9" and about 185lbs.  I have a pretty athletic build with pretty decent shoulders and a slight barrel chest (not really but similar).  Similar body to that of an out of season baseball player.

I try on a size 40R and it fits really well.  I could be the mannequin for the shoulders.  However, there is a bit of a gape above the button in the lapel.  It bends out very slightly rather than being a flat V.  Depending on how I stand and if I fix it by pulling it down a bit, it goes away... but if I lift my arms a bit, for example, it rides back up and doesn't fall back in place.  Its not extreme, but it might be a quarter to a half an inch too tight I'm thinking.  The one worker at the one store said I should get a 40 but in a brand that might hide it more generously because "it looks perfect in the back and everywhere else."

I try on size 42R and I'm swimming in fabric.  It looks acceptable in the shoulders, but there is a lot of extra fabric in the waist and back near the arms.  It just looks big and not as flattering, but I'm thinking it could be fixed by a tailor.  The worker recalled their earlier statement and said I should go with the 40R because it looks better on me (assuming they don't think I'd get it tailored at all).

My question is, do I get the 40R or the 42R and see what they could do with it?  I have a feeling it could be a lot of fabric.

Suit is a Hickey Freeman Milburn at a Neiman Marcus Last Call.


Yeah, good help in men's clothing stores is hard to come by in most places. Last time I went to a Brooks Brothers nearby me they tried to get me into a 44. I'm definitley no larger than a 40. I was actually really annoyed that the worker there tried to get me to try it on. What an idiot.

Anyway, it sounds like the problem seems to be what you said; that you have a big chest. However, the main question I have is how do the suits fit in the shoulders? Does the shoulder pad just out over your natural shoulder blade in the 42? If so, it's going to be a poor fit, even with alterations. If the 42 fits the shoulders and chest well, you can fix up the back, no problem. 5'9" 185 sounds like at least a 42 to me. I'm 165lb at 6'2" and a slim 40.

I know nothing of Hickey Freeman suits, so I can't suggest a different model. Perhaps next time you go in, take a pic and post here with the two different jackets. Another idea would be to try a different brand/model suit. You don't want your chest to look like you're bursting out of the jacket, but, provided that the other dimensions work well, it's infinitely worse to be swimming in a terrible fitting suit, imo.
 
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facet

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So my question is, does my suit jacket fit? I've provided pictures. I'm not concerned about sleeve length, as there are non functional buttons that can easily be moved, and the pants are unfinished at the moment, so that's why they're baggy. Both pants and sleeves are rolled up/tucked in for now. I'm mainly concerned about the length. I have a great tailor and I can have things like sleeve circumference and taking in at the waist done great. My main concern is on the length, as that's not so easily tailored. Here's the photos. I've upped the brightness etc. to easier see the coat's edge:
From the front, it looks long to me.
 

PhiPsi32

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^^^^ Agreed, jacket should stop at the first knuckle of the hand. This jacket seems to come down to the tips of your curled fingers. Otherwise I see some dimpling of the jacket to either side of the top button. Maybe you need just a little more room around the trunk. Hard to tell from the photos.
 

Sanguis Mortuum

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My height is between 5'7" and 5'8", which seems to be the cutoff point for a Short or Regular suit jacket, generally speaking. I have short arms, however, and find that when dealing with function sleeve buttons, a short jacket is much better fit. However, I know a suit should "cover your ass" so to speak, and sometimes the Short jackets don't do that.

The 38S would probably be better.

Are these grenadines?


No.
 

Kid Nickels

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Deals are scarce in my neck of the woods, it might have to do. How do you feel about the loafer's construction and quality?


do you have a particular model in mind or something I can refer to? some of them are excellent and some are so-so, but not really because of the quality... more for the price point for what you get. I'm just saying at retail which can be pushing $500 you're getting close to owning much better shoes. PM me some pix or references and I'll take a look :nodding:
 

ManCrush

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Jan 12, 2012
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Question: Can an inseam on dress pants every really be effectively lengthened? My concern is the permanent crease on the existing cuff before alteration will always show after alteration; that it could never really be ironed out. I found a pair of pants I desperately want on ebay, but it is too short by 2 inches, yet has 3 inches of extra material (which would only leave an inch for the cuff if lengthened). I'm doubting this can be done and look good. Any experience with this would be appreciated. Thanks, guys.
 

DrGrip

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I am new to Styleforum and have a question - I am looking for the coat famously sharp-dressing soccer manager José Mourinho wore during the Real Madrid - Bayern Munich match last Wednesday.
Here are some photos form the match:





I hope you can help me and won't scold me for not finding anything more interesting about the match ;)
 
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