Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

[Master-Classter]

Figured it might be time for this... Perhaps a pin? Just to cut down on all the clutter and new members jumping in for one question
Mods - edit/delete as you wish, just trying to help. This seems quite useful in SW&D

My Quick Questions:
What does the term "drop" mean?
Are there rules for matching socks? do they go with shoe color, pants color, etc?

 

[adambparker]

The "drop" of a suit generally refers to the difference between the chest and waist measurements. So, if a US size 40 suit has a 6 inch drop, it will have size 34 trousers.

 

[crazyquik]

A businessman will match his sock to his trouser color.
A gentleman will match his socks to his mood.

 

[Master-Classter]

...

 

[sfnewbie]

I have a couple... *Why is there so much hate towards rubber soles? I'm not talking about the chunky ones like on skechers shoes, but ones that have the same slim appearance from the side as leather soles. I ask this because I'm in Ohio and our weather is crappy about 75% of the time. *This is kind of odd to ask, but when I sit down it seems like the crotch area of my pants always bunch up and stick up. And yes, it's just my pants

. Is this normal? *I know having the perfect pant break is a big thing around here, especially in the WAYWT thread, but is it seriously preferable to have your pants barely hit the top of your shoes compared to having a bit of break? Is there a certain guideline for this? Such as the bottom of the pant leg should hit the top of the sole on the back of your shoe? Should the pants be altered to be shorter in the front so it doesn't break as much but still goes down to the sole of the shoe?

 

[Cary Grant]

Length of break is purely personal opinion. Full, medium, none, etc... personally, no break on me looks way too "high water".

 

[Sator]

I have one too. What is the best way to draft a coat pattern with the optimal arm scye depth: front scye, back scye or distance from base of scye to centre point (using a centre point cutting system)? And what other subsidiary arm scye measurements are essential?

 

[Despos]

Originally Posted by Sator

I have one too. What is the best way to draft a coat pattern with the optimal arm scye depth: front scye, back scye or distance from base of scye to centre point (using a centre point cutting system)? And what other subsidiary arm scye measurements are essential?
Use short measures to determine strap length, scye depth and overshoulder measures. This is pretty much only practiced in Asia now but does have merit.

 

[devin]

Can anyone suggest where to get a reasonably affordable (say, <~$60 USD) glove in the style here:
http://bp3.blogger.com/_qjpwnPW4c1o/...lglovesweb.jpg

Most interested in the natural color and the detailing on the back of the hand (that seems to be the hardest element to find). The reverse seams don't really matter.

 

[Sator]

Originally Posted by Despos

Use short measures to determine strap length, scye depth and overshoulder measures. This is pretty much only practiced in Asia now but does have merit.

Is this to say that most cutters today use either the chest measure system, or a table of proportionate measure to work out the appropriate scye depth from the chest measure? Even 1950s texts discuss how scye depth and overshoulder measure can still be useful to experienced cutters, as a way of providing a picture of the proportions of the customer, even if those direct measurements aren't used to draft the pattern.

 

[Quatsch]

This isn't exactly pertaining to clothing, but I've often wondered:

Why don't we have a &quot;critique my jantzen/MTM shirt&quot; megathread?

 

[EuropeanInterloper Redux]

Where can I get a black velvet, diamond end bow tie?

Also, although non-traditional, would a velvet bowtie look good with a satin-lapel midnight blue sb notch dinner jacket?

Cheers,

EI

(yes, I've asked this question now three times but so far no takers)

 

[RatherAnOddball]

Do Incotex trousers have a lower-than-usual rise? Could one alter them to be worn with braces, or does their &quot;style&quot; exclude that possibility? Never seen them firsthand myself, but shop the finest has pages of them and I'm considering a few of them.

 

[RatherAnOddball]

Oh, here's another:

I saw a Seinfeld the other day where Jerry's new suede jacket was destroyed by snow. I've never owned suede anything before, but was hoping to get some suede shoes - is it true that even a modest amount of moisture will make them spotty? If not, where does the idea come from that it will?

 

[Master-Classter]

Originally Posted by sfnewbie

I have a couple...

*Why is there so much hate towards rubber soles? I'm not talking about the chunky ones like on skechers shoes, but ones that have the same slim appearance from the side as leather soles. I ask this because I'm in Ohio and our weather is crappy about 75% of the time.

+1, I'm in Canada, lots of snow here... I suspect the hate is just as a matter of getting "authentic" shoes, and the assumption that "rubber sole" = big and chunky

Originally Posted by sfnewbie

*This is kind of odd to ask, but when I sit down it seems like the crotch area of my pants always bunch up and stick up. And yes, it's just my pants

. Is this normal?

Happens to me all the time, but generally when my pants are overly generous with the fabric around the crotch and thigh area, especially if they have pleats. With slimmer and flat fronts this tends to happen less. Also, some (eg TaT) have frog mouth pockets to avoid things falling out as the pockets bulge open when sitting.

Originally Posted by sfnewbie

*I know having the perfect pant break is a big thing around here, especially in the WAYWT thread, but is it seriously preferable to have your pants barely hit the top of your shoes compared to having a bit of break? Is there a certain guideline for this? Such as the bottom of the pant leg should hit the top of the sole on the back of your shoe? Should the pants be altered to be shorter in the front so it doesn't break as much but still goes down to the sole of the shoe?

Personal preference, although there are some guidelines... Wider/generous pants are better with a bit of break or a cuff to keep them from swinging around too much. If you're on the short side or quite slim then maybe consider little to no break and no cuffs.