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Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Master-Classter, Sep 28, 2008.

  1. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Glen plaid has become a generic term for plaid. The origin of the term from the dictionary says it is short for glenurquhart plaid, from Glen Urquhart, a valley in Inverness-shire, Scotland. Where as a Tartan would represent your family of origin a plaid represents your town or area you are from. Prince of Wales is a specific coloration with in the glen plaid genre. The colors of a Prince of Wales plaid were originally a navy blue with burgundy.

    I have no idea of the quality of a Paul Smith suit.

    After a navy jacket I would get a lighter colored sport coat. Then you have a dark jacket to wear with lighter trouser and a lighter colored jacket to wear with dark trouser. Could be tan, camel, carmel brown, grey, whatever is a good color for your skin tone and works with your trouser selections.
     
    1 person likes this.
  2. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Is this to say that most cutters today use either the chest measure system, or a table of proportionate measure to work out the appropriate scye depth from the chest measure? Even 1950s texts discuss how scye depth and overshoulder measure can still be useful to experienced cutters, as a way of providing a picture of the proportions of the customer, even if those direct measurements aren't used to draft the pattern.

    Depends, drafting a pattern for an individual or creating a block pattern would require different information. Short measures will give more information and detail of a clients proportion so I guess it can be useful. I have tried to draft using these measures and it helps. A visual of the client is still the best because you need a 3D image to know how a client is shaped. Even short measures do not reveal a prominent shoulder blade or a forward shoulder.

    Using a table of proportionate measure would be needed for a RTW block pattern but is only relevant if the measurements fits your demographic. A friend purchased a clothing factory and one of the first things he did was update his proportional chart. He found that the average male in the US today is 5'9" and 190 lbs. The proportions the company had been using were outdated. He resized his patterns and the clothing line sales increased substantially due to the improved fit. His clothing actually became the standard sizing several retailers began to use.

    The proportional chart is less needed in custom work because I am making one suit for one individual. Only the clients individual measurements and proportions matter.
     
  3. Quatsch

    Quatsch Senior member

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    Quick question: My question is about eveningwear of the not so formal variety. I'm trying to put some stuff together to wear out in the evening to nice-ish restaurants and other things when I'm in Orlando visiting my girlfriend, having no need for that kind of stuff in the town I go to school in. I feel like a suit might be a bit much(not to mention its rarely a comfortable temperature to wear a suit in Orlando, or at least when you're coming in from cooler climates), but that on the other hand, that its easy to look like a chump in a shirt and trousers(am I wrong here?). And then again, what kind of odd jackets would you wear out in the evening? I feel like black is a safe bet for this context, but I don't really want to buy a black suit just for that purpose. Advice? Age is early 20s, if it helps.
     
  4. grimslade

    grimslade Senior member

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    Use short measures to determine strap length, scye depth and overshoulder measures. This is pretty much only practiced in Asia now but does have merit.
    [​IMG]
     
  5. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    [​IMG]

    sycophant
     
  6. grimslade

    grimslade Senior member

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    sycophant

    I'm angling for a discount on my first suit. How am I doing? [​IMG]
     
  7. otc

    otc Senior member

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    Can someone please answer me
    2. I haven't been able to find this anwhere... Can anyone tell me their thoughts on the overall quality, styling, etc of Paul Smith suits...? I'm checking one out on ebay but just not sure if I'm paying for a name or if they're even decent suits. Assume I can pick one up for around $350?


    I have a paul smith suit that seems pretty nice. It's got a lot of hand work (lots of pick stitching) and is tagged as made in italy. Mine is an 88% Wool/12% mohair which feels different than most suits so I can't comment on the fabrics he uses.

    Mine does not have a hidden naked lady anywhere like some of his suits are supposed to (hidden in the cuffs or somethin) [​IMG]
     
  8. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I'm angling for a discount on my first suit. How am I doing? [​IMG]

    Think of it as getting as close to a Rubinaci as you can get in the U.S., for less money.

    There's your discount.
     
  9. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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    Think of it as getting as close to a Rubinaci as you can get in the U.S., for less money.

    There's your discount.


    Why, do you wear Rubinacci while you cut your client's suits?


    - B
     
  10. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Why, do you wear Rubinacci while you cut your client's suits?


    - B


    At one time I considered ordering one for the experience of going through the experience.

    I will if you will.
     
  11. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Why, do you wear Rubinacci while you cut your client's suits?


    - B


    This thread is " Ask A Question, Get An Answer..." Is that the best you have? I expected more.
     
  12. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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    This thread is " Ask A Question, Get An Answer..." Is that the best you have? I expected more.

    Do you do wide lapels?

    - B
     
  13. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Do you do wide lapels?

    - B


    Sorry, I don't understand your question. Next.
     
  14. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Do you have a rule or approach to deal with shorter clients?
     
  15. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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    Do you have a rule or approach to deal with shorter clients?

    Kneeling?


    - B
     
  16. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Kneeling?


    - B


    Let's not be lewd.
     
  17. Jferg4350

    Jferg4350 Senior member

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    My Question I saw this pair of shoes I like but they have rubber soles which I do not want. Could I get them replaced with a leather sole? How much would this run me?
     
  18. grimslade

    grimslade Senior member

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    This thread delivers!

    Chris, I accept your discount. I'll be by as soon as I can raise the scratch. Do you accept unmarked non-sequential small bills?

    Jferg, it depends on the shoes. If they are welted, then yes. If they are glued, probably not, and it probably wouldn't be worth it in any case.
     
  19. Jferg4350

    Jferg4350 Senior member

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    Jferg, it depends on the shoes. If they are welted, then yes. If they are glued, probably not, and it probably wouldn't be worth it in any case.

    Thanks

    I guess ill have to keep searching for a double monk in a size 14 [​IMG]
     
  20. Limniscate

    Limniscate Senior member

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    Newbie question: Does the jacket covering-your-butt rule really apply if you have short legs?
     

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