Paul Sargent (formerly Alfred Sargent) Appreciation Thread

[Trusar]

New Henry II from AS for Herring
View attachment 979490

Now keen to try to add to the burnishing as shown by @andrel42, very nicely done.

Are these full grain leather? Is the quality on par with AS exclusive?

 

[ShooIn]

Are these full grain leather? Is the quality on par with AS exclusive?

Nice full grain leather. There are a number of differences , the most noticable are the tighter waist and hidden channel stitching with the Exclusive range. I don't think the soles are Oak-bark tanned either. The Henry II are a small step down in quality and detailing, but I love the shape of the 109 last and wear them often.

 

[Trusar]

Nice full grain leather. There are a number of differences , the most noticable are the tighter waist and hidden channel stitching with the Exclusive range. I don't think the soles are Oak-bark tanned either. The Henry II are a small step down in quality and detailing, but I love the shape of the 109 last and wear them often.

Thanks for the reply, main thing I'm worried about is the leather, Is the leather the same? I have a pair coming on Monday.

 

[ShooIn]

No idea if it is the same but I don't think you will be disappointed, full grain and it takes a lovely shine. I have C&J and G&G as well as AS exclusive and these certainly compare well.

 

[Trusar]

OK thanks.
Im getting the Henry 2 like the pic you put.
Thanks a lot. Can't wait till Monday

 

[dukenukem4ever]

OK thanks.
Im getting the Henry 2 like the pic you put.
Thanks a lot. Can't wait till Monday

Herring Royal Collection (Henry II, Charles II, etc...) are all based off of the Alfred Sargent 109 F last which is a part of its Exclusive collection.

In terms of leather quality, the leather used as part of the "Royal Collection" is the best in its collection (its Premier line is mainly produced by Joseph Cheaney, still a smidgen below Alfred Sargent).

I don't know how to quantitatively measure the leather quality but I can say (owning the Charles II (a cap toe balmoral copy of the Armfields without the swan neck stitching) and Edward II semi-brogue) that the leather used is definitely quite beautiful, supple and easy to maintain and shine.

You won't be disappointed by them. Yes, the Royal Collection manufactured by Alfred Sargent does not feature closed-channel stitching, oak-bark tanned leather soles and like ShooIn noted, its waist is not as narrow / tight but only by a hair to be honest. Hardly noticeable. Still, all the Royal Collection shoes are on the 109 last which is beautiful in my opinion.

 

[Trusar]

the leather seems thin cardboard like and rigid.

is this normal?

 

[Trusar]

maybe it will soffen up after conditioning and moisturising several times.

 

[Trusar]

the leather reminds me of the leather used by Crockett and jones in their handgrade line.
the only difference is this is rigid and C & J handgrade is flexible.
When i went to the C & J store i tried on the fairford and it was also very thin leather, but flexible, and look very similar to me.

 

[Luigi_M]

the leather seems thin cardboard like and rigid.

is this normal?

Pics ? ?

 

[Trusar]

Pics ? ?

ill send pics a little later

 

[Trusar]

My right foot is longer by about 5mm but for some reason the right shoe seems a bit looser from the back. I'll try it again tomorrow evening. I haven't been on my feet much today. The last pic is after cream polish

 

[Trusar]

If you zoom in on some of the close ups, you can see not only the grain structure but also the hole where the hair folical was, loads of small holes. I belove this is a good sign.

 

[Luigi_M]

I can say nothing about the fit (you have to feel it by yourself), but the leather seems the same of my own Alfred Sargents.
It may feel somehow hard at the beginning, but if you wear them for some time to break in, and give your shoes some love (a conditioner like Bick4 and some good cream - all very sparingly) you will quickly find yourself with a really fine and comfortable pair of shoes.
Of course you already know that (like all nice shoes) they deserve good shoe trees and frequent brushing.
Enjoy them in good health!

 

[LPMIII]

I can say nothing about the fit (you have to feel it by yourself), but the leather seems the same of my own Alfred Sargents.
It may feel somehow hard at the beginning, but if you wear them for some time to break in, and give your shoes some love (a conditioner like Bick4 and some good cream - all very sparingly) you will quickly find yourself with a really fine and comfortable pair of shoes.
Of course you already know that (like all nice shoes) they deserve good shoe trees and frequent brushing.
Enjoy them in good health!

I have had this issue with a pair of factory second Armfields; I suspect they may have been sitting on a shelf for a while. I used a few light applications of Bick 4, giving them ample time to absorb it between applications.