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The watch DISCUSSION thread

radicaldog

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In the watch appreciation thread there's often a tension between people wanting to post their actual watches and talk about them, and people wanting to discuss watches in general, usually in a more abstract manner. So maybe the latter topic needs its own thread.

To kick this off, a classic theme: the one watch collection. Parameters: just one piece, from black tie to the beach (and into the sea). Preferably one should be able to achieve this without swapping straps or bracelets. And the watch should be reliably waterproof, so vintage stuff is probably out.

Here's my submission (a watch I don't own though I might buy once we're allowed into shops where I can handle it without having to make an appointment, sigh):

1618660949512.png


(Part of) the argument:

- The design language is such that it transcends the various registers of dress formality, and the matte black colour keeps it discreet.

- Despite being on a bracelet it's not a sports watch (nor a dress watch, that's the point!), and has nothing to fear from water: 50m wr is enough for swimming, provided I have the gaskets checked with each battery change (or service for the mechanical fans out there: there's also an automatic ETA version, slightly thicker, and which to me defeats the purpose of this design, but to each their own).

- In terms of historical interest, Rado pioneered ceramic and this is their most current interpretation of the design (by Konstantin Grcic, a respected designer).

- It's not a rare watch that needs to be babied for the sake of horological posterity.

Thoughts? Alternative suggestions?

NB: Those aren't "change my mind" questions. I'm not even that set on this particular watch (my daily wearer and failed attempt at one-watch is something else entirely). I'm just curious about what people think, what their ideal one-watch solution might be, etc.

Or indeed if people want to discuss other watch questions in the abstract, well, that's what this thread is for.

Cheers!
 
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Ambulance Chaser

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Without a doubt the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Ultra-Thin, and not just because Jack Forster suggested that status. Beautiful; perfect size (40 mm x 7.5 mm); water-resistant to 50 m; easy bracelet/strap swap system; will likely never see another in the wild, even at a Redbar meetup.

 

radicaldog

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This is going to be good. Bunch of pics of Cokes and Batmans no doubt.
And Explorer Is. I just don't quite buy the argument that they go with everything, at least not for most people. If you were in the SAS or flew jets for Pan Am in the 50s, then by all means wear your Milsub or GMT with your dinner jacket. But for most people that strikes me as inauthentic, and thus in poor taste. And even setting authenticity aside, those are still chunky steel watches. They just don't go with formal clothes. The various 36mm time-only or time-and-date steel Rolexes come closer, though still strike me as sporty. Maybe something like this, in steel and white gold?

1618663002970.png
 

radicaldog

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Without a doubt the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Ultra-Thin, and not just because Jack Forster suggested that status. Beautiful; perfect size (40 mm x 7.5 mm); water-resistant to 50 m; easy bracelet/strap swap system; will likely never see another in the wild, even at a Redbar meetup.

Beautiful. The bezel is maybe a little aggressively styled for evening wear, but I do really like it, and hadn't come across it before. Thanks. It's way out of my price range but that's neither here nor there.
 

Ambulance Chaser

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The Vacheron is white gold. I wish there was a steel model for less than $56K.
 

NakedYoga

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What about something like a black dial Aqua Terra?
 

radicaldog

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The Vacheron is white gold. I wish there was a steel model for less than $56K.
Yes sorry I realised that and edited my post. I do think the white gold is what makes it work as a passepartout. If it existed in steel it'd probably end up costing more than the gold version on the grey market, at this rate.
 

radicaldog

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What about something like a black dial Aqua Terra?
No better or worse than an Explorer I. One reason I like the above all-ceramic design is that it bypasses the steel-gold issue and so works in all sorts of contexts.
 

Phileas Fogg

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To my eye when it comes to watches, it’s the one area where a man can blend styles.

I think a traditional dress watch, pick your make/model, can be worn both casually as well as intended.

The notion of a “sport watch” being worn casually or in a more formal environment is somewhat new and in some cases odd. I harken back to Daniel Craig wearing an omega seamaster with black tie in CasRoy and how out of place it looked. Yet seeing someone wearing a Tank Americaine or a Patek Calatrava on the beach wouldn’t strike me as odd.

Again, this is just my observation and my own taste. But we are here to discuss and so I wanted to add my voice to the discussion.
 

radicaldog

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I think a traditional dress watch, pick your make/model, can be worn both casually as well as intended.
I agree, and often wear mine like that. But with most dress watches you can't jump into the sea. Not if you want to keep them running, that is. And then there's the strap issue. So they don't work as a one-watch solution, unless you stipulate that you'll have many watchless days, which sort of defeats the purpose of the exercise. But maybe a 50m rated dress watch that works on a NATO strap? What would be some examples?
 

Thin White Duke

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Without a doubt the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Ultra-Thin, and not just because Jack Forster suggested that status. Beautiful; perfect size (40 mm x 7.5 mm); water-resistant to 50 m; easy bracelet/strap swap system; will likely never see another in the wild, even at a Redbar meetup.

Good choice. I decided some time ago that if I ever wanted to flip all my current watches for a one watch it would be the SS blue dial VC overseas. I like it much better than its competitors which seem to be the ubiquitous APRO and the nineteen seventies TV with ears PP. Nautilus. Part of its appeal to me are the reasons stated - would go with almost anything, anywhere.

That was until I saw one in person when I found out that the bright blue blue as seen in the website pics was in reality a rather dull dark almost-navy blue and that poured water on my intentions!
 

Phileas Fogg

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I agree, and often wear mine like that. But with most dress watches you can't jump into the sea. Not if you want to keep them running, that is. And then there's the strap issue. So they don't work as a one-watch solution, unless you stipulate that you'll have many watchless days, which sort of defeats the purpose of the exercise. But maybe a 50m rated dress watch that works on a NATO strap? What would be some examples?
Of course not. I guess for me the term “worn casually” end at the water.

I wasn’t even thinking of going in the water as I have an inordinate fear of becoming lunch for some creature whose home I am invading.
 

Woofa

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Good morning gentleman and thank you for starting this thread radical. Is not something like this RO jumbo ultra thin just about perfect? 39mm and 8.1mm thick, 50m WR.

1618665667272.png
 

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