Luxire Custom Clothing - Official Affiliate Thread

[99percent]

The answer might be somewhere in this gargantuan thread but after more than an hour looking I give up and will just ask: are your buttons mother of pearl as stated on your website? Or do you have to pay extra? I'm asking because the ones that I've seen in this thread and on your tumblr look like regular rivershell with no nacreous iridescence. Are they Trocas, real Australian MOP, rivershell or something else that I haven't heard of? Can you clarify for me this please? Thanks.

 

[BenMurphy]

Anyone tried the Warzone cream twill fabric for shirts?

http://luxire.com/collections/all-sorted-by-price-low-to-high/products/warzone-cream-twill

I'm looking for a cream or natural color for a dress shirt.

 

[SirJamesWinston]

Quick fit critique on this Sky Blue Oxford after a day of wear?

Currently doing this for next shirt:
-0.25 cuff size
-0.25 bicep
-0.5 sleeve length
+1.0 bottom button/hem

Thought about going -0.25 armhole. Also adding side pleats on the back.











Thank you.

 

[username79]



The answer might be somewhere in this gargantuan thread but after more than an hour looking I give up and will just ask: are your buttons mother of pearl as stated on your website? Or do you have to pay extra? I'm asking because the ones that I've seen in this thread and on your tumblr look like regular rivershell with no nacreous iridescence. Are they Trocas, real Australian MOP, rivershell or something else that I haven't heard of? Can you clarify for me this please? Thanks.

They are thick and are pearl of some sort. However, they are average to below average in quality. There is very little iridescence and they look near opaque and white. For an under $100 shirt, they are fine. If I was ordering a $150 fabric, I would hope for better.

On their tumblr there is mention of "premium MOP buttons" which look much nicer. How to order these, I don't know.

Edit: Also to be fair, they are better than most other online MTM makers in this price point, and marginally better than what you get from CottonWork if you pay a $10 upcharge.

 

[Gibonius]



They are thick and are pearl of some sort. However, they are average to below average in quality. There is very little iridescence and they look near opaque and white. For an under $100 shirt, they are fine. If I was ordering a $150 fabric, I would hope for better.

On their tumblr there is mention of "premium MOP buttons" which look much nicer. How to order these, I don't know.

Add a note saying "Premium MOP buttons." I think they're $20 extra (someone confirm?). You can do thin buttons too, which I usually do for gauntlet buttons and button-down collars. Hard to button with the thick ones.

They actually have a gigantic assortment of buttons (shown somewhere in this thread) but they're extremely hard to find. Hopefully the new site will be better.

 

[VDMark]

Add a note saying "Premium MOP buttons." I think they're $20 extra (someone confirm?). You can do thin buttons too, which I usually do for gauntlet buttons and button-down collars. Hard to button with the thick ones.

They actually have a gigantic assortment of buttons (shown somewhere in this thread) but they're extremely hard to find. Hopefully the new site will be better.

Image posted by Luxire a while back. To my knowledge they have since added the options of wooden and coconut buttons.

 

[lachyzee]



Quick fit critique on this Sky Blue Oxford after a day of wear? Currently doing this for next shirt: -0.25 cuff size -0.25 bicep -0.5 sleeve length +1.0 bottom button/hem Thought about going -0.25 armhole. Also adding side pleats on the back.

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

Thank you.

To me it looks like you could do with adding something to the waist as well. It looks like it'd be very tight when sitting. If you want to minimise the excess fabric in the back, then try going with a back waist measurement that is 0.75" or so smaller than front waist. But then again your pants seem to fit rather slim in the seat and thigh so perhaps that's your look, up to you. Also I think the shoulders might be a little bit too wide for you, but it's somewhat difficult to tell since it's undone at the top. Box pleat seems more appropriate on a blue OCBD.

 

[username79]



Quick fit critique on this Sky Blue Oxford after a day of wear? 

Currently doing this for next shirt:
-0.25 cuff size
-0.25 bicep
-0.5 sleeve length
+1.0 bottom button/hem

Thought about going -0.25 armhole. Also adding side pleats on the back. 

Sleeve length looks good, I don't see why you'd shorten it by a whole half inch. It looks just long enough. When you decrease the cuff size your cuffs will sit a bit higher, but you will still need the length to prevent pullback when you bend your arms.

You need to add more to bicep/sleeve width, not subtract! Your sleeves are significantly too tight through the elbow and forearm.

You need to enlarge the waist, it is too tight.

Concur on enlarging the hem, but the shirt is likely too short, which is causing it to splay open inside your pants and ride up, which is causing the accordion/untucking in the back.

Might want to go up a pant size or have them let out, your pockets are billowing out.

 

[SirJamesWinston]

I will add 0.5 to waist, and and mention the 0.75 option. Perhaps I will add 0.25 to bicep, 0.25 to sleeve length, and -0.25 to yolk. I may revert back to no pleats.

It does seem strange that you say the sleeves are too tight in the forearm, as there is a lot of excess material there. I do want to prevent any riding up, and was hoping to do this by decreasing the cuff size. As someone who has had sleeves too short for many years, this is the thing I am most sensitive about on shirts as riding up upsets me. I don't mind if there is extra material if the sleeves do not ride up regardless of arm locations (over the head perhaps the exception).

The shirt length is 31.5. Originally the bottom button was 18.5 inches and too tight. I am increasing this to 19, but you think at 6"2, I should increase the shirt length?

The pants are HY Italian (tighter) fit flannels. I have at 0.5 to 1 inch of extra material in the waist. I will get the pants altered at some point, but I expect to be down to goal weight of 155 by the end of the year (164 now) and will wait to get the alterations done then. I have gone back and forth on the fit. I recognize they are too tight in the seat, thighs, and calves, but I also have a pair of his American (looser) fit cords in 32 that are too baggy in the seat and 1.0-1.5 in the waist, and comfortable in the calves, knees, and thighs. I may go through Luxire for a pair of trousers next year, but will need to figure out my slim vs. classic and more comfortable fit. I don't have to have slim, but I also strongly dislike baggy, and many of the more classic fits on SF look baggy or comfortable enough to hide excess weight.

Thank you for the suggestion, keep them coming while I am still teachable!

 

[CosmeDaniel]

I will add 0.5 to waist, and and mention the 0.75 option. Perhaps I will add 0.25 to bicep, 0.25 to sleeve length, and -0.25 to yolk. I may revert back to no pleats.

The pants are HY Italian fit flannels. I have at 0.5 to 1 inch of extra material in the waist. I will get the pants altered at some point, but I expect to be down to 155 by the end of the year (164 now) and will wait to get alterations done then, as I desire to maintain close to that weight till I pass on. I have gone back and forth on the fit. I have a pair of his American fit cords in 32 that are too baggy in the seat and 1.0-1.5 in the waist. I may go through Luxire for a pair of trousers next year, but will need to figure out my slim vs. classic and more comfortable fit.

The shirt length is 31.5. Originally the bottom button was 18.5 inches and too tight. I am increasing this to 19, but you think at 6"2, I should increase the shirt length?

Sleeve length looks okay to me. I see that another member suggested decreasing the sleeve length and another suggested it looked okay as well. But you're suggesting increasing by 0.25? In the tailor feedback thread I see that you suggest decreasing by 0.50. Not sure which way you're going.

As others mentioned, shoulders look a tad bit wide. If you agree after buttoning the collar, you can specify what you need sleeve length to be 36.50 (for example) and then request the collar to shoulder length be 6.00 (for example).

 

[thebrownman]

Does anyone know if Luxire offers a denim shirting fabric similar to what Patrick Johnson offers? Their MTM denim and OTR versions are subtly different, but pictured below is the OTR version.

EDIT: If you have something similar Luxire, I'll take 10.

 

[SirJamesWinston]

I posted on the tailor forum last night before receiving feedback. I placed the order last night, and will need to get in my corrections quickly, thus the double posting.

 

[CosmeDaniel]

The larger ones are the new 18L buttons, the smaller ones are our standard.

Quote:

Thin MOP works.


Here is how the think ones look. The ones on left are blurred (poor photography) ones on right look perfect. The shine, the color are very good.

Will do the same for others soon.

 

[SirJamesWinston]

The collar to shoulder measurement is a good idea. So keep the yoke the same or decrease a little? I will be wearing the shirts without tie for the majority of the time, at least for the next couple of years.

Update, just measured the collar to the end of the shoulder seam, and it is 6 inches. Decrease 1 inch or 0.5 on both shoulders?

 

[Turner]

The one-piece collar with and without a jacket and with a tie, even if it's not meant to be: