Pal Zileri suits - among the great Italian suitmakers or a mere second-fiddle?

I was in Rome recently, and found myself at the PZ Outlet store. I picked up two pairs of wool FF trousers, which are now my favourite, for about 120E a pair. I didn't buy a suit on the day, but from what I remember, they were going for about 800E. The discounts were apparently 40% from retail. This is all mainline white label stuff BTW.

I actually have a swatch of that fabric, and I can say, having seen and felt it, that it is quite nice. As far as PZ suits go, I would have to disagree with everyone here saying that they aren't worth $800. I would consider that a steal based on all of the PZ garments I've seen and worn. I just ordered a PZ MTM suit in black and white houndstooth which will cost me a little bit more than that (I'm getting a serious discount on it) and I'm more than happy with what I feel is an excellent deal.

If you want a reference point, I would say that Canali is a pretty good comparison in terms of construction, fabric, and overall quality for the price. I'll take PZ any day of the week over Canali simply because I prefer the fit over most Canali's offerings (though their 15000 body is sublime, I never see many of them around).

Also, I happen to love PZ's more "odd" fabrics. A co-worker of mine has a gorgeous PZ MTM two-button suit in chocolate brown with sort of a magenta-ish windowpane. I've never seen anything like it, and it's honestly my favourite suit that I've ever seen anyone wear.

Many Zileri suit are not made in Italy any more, at lease in their HK store. Also if you buy it on sale here, IIRC, it should be cheaper than USD$800.
I have few suits and pants from Pal Zileri, the quality was good. So, if the fit and price is right, go for it.

Originally Posted by Fishball

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Many Zileri suit are not made in Italy any more, at lease in their HK store. Also if you buy it on sale here, IIRC, it should be cheaper than USD$800.
I have few suits and pants from Pal Zileri, the quality was good. So, if the fit and price is right, go for it.

I have yet to see a PZ suit not made in Italy. Is it possible that you have been looking at their diffusion line which an earlier poster had mentioned?

Sartoriale line is right on par Brioni. Better than Borrelli and Zegna Napoli.

A notch below Kiton.

I think like every other clothes decision around here, price becomes a factor of desirability and time constraint
given enough time, there's a decent likelihood of finding most things at a significantly better price.. that might be several months and a lot of effort
so if the pattern is right and fit seems pretty close, do what you feel is best
I find Sartoriale a major step up (as has been mentioned) from mainline white label and comparable in construction with the big hitters.. most of what I've seen is more unusual patterns that I've found very interesting

Originally Posted by robasaurus

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I have yet to see a PZ suit not made in Italy. Is it possible that you have been looking at their diffusion line which an earlier poster had mentioned?

I think they are white label, IIRC. I think they were made in Turkey.

Originally Posted by Fishball

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I think they are white label, IIRC. I think they were made in Turkey.

As I said, I've never seen nor heard of a white label PZ made anywhere but Italy. For reference, I work in a men's clothing store which carries PZ white label and a bit of Sartoriale. I see dozens of them every season. This is in Canada though, so it may be different in Hong Kong.

Originally Posted by robasaurus

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I just ordered a PZ MTM suit in black and white houndstooth which will cost me a little bit more than that (I'm getting a serious discount on it) and I'm more than happy with what I feel is an excellent deal.

I only know one store in Toronto that carries a reasonable collection of PZ so I'm curious who does MTM Zileri in Canada.

And I too have never seen any made in Turkey Zileri from any line.

I have one pair of pants that seem to do a nice job. Certainly as nice as the other regular italian brands. As for the suits here in Calgary there is one store and the prices are just to high to even bother to look. I'll have to go in one day and have a second glance but again SF has ruined the shopping in this town for this member.

Sorry, I think I mixed it up, that is Boss that made in Turkey, sorry again guys.

starting last season they've introduced or re-introduced a new cut in their White Lable, which features high gorge, very soft shoulders, 3 roll to 2, or 2 two button stance and slim waist with a roped shoulder. The trousers are flat front and also on the slim side, though not Borrelli slim. The normal White Lable suit have a drop of 6, this cut has a drop of 8. I rather like this silhouette and have bought a suit and a coat featuring this cut.

Originally Posted by maomao1980

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starting last season they've introduced or re-introduced a new cut in their White Lable, which features high gorge, very soft shoulders, 3 roll to 2, or 2 two button stance and slim waist with a roped shoulder. The trousers are flat front and also on the slim side, though not Borrelli slim. The normal White Lable suit have a drop of 6, this cut has a drop of 8. I rather like this silhouette and have bought a suit and a coat featuring this cut.
That exactly describes the suit I'm considering, including the slightly less slimness/taper to the pants, the roped shoulders, etc. I'm leaning towards making a purchase, or at least an offer. I don't want to lowball the guy if $800 is in fact a fairly respectable price, but perhaps I should make an offer for about $100 less?

robosaurus, thanks for your comments on the quality of the clothing swatch. It looks very nice, but of course pictures don't tell the whole story.

Interesting that the sartoriale line is considered quite high-end. I sorta assumed it might be like the diffusion (but very good quality) "Sartoriale" Attolini/Kiton lines. I think I've seen the label as well - a website address (pz.sartoriale.it or something) - and it just seemed to imply a lower line.

Pal Zileri is an Italian maker based in Vincenza, Italy.

All their production is based in Italy AFAIK.

It has several lines as ( from low to high ) and from old to new

• Pal Zileri Sport
  Jeans, casual trousers, shirts etc
  
• Novecento, pull, concept
  trendy and young line, jackets are fused, trousers semi-curtained
  
• Cerimonia
  Tuxedos and other groom clothing, ( some are really hideous others nice)
  fused or half canvased jackets
  
• White label
  This is the main line, wide selection of medium and high quality fabrics, Cupro Bemberg lining.
  The cut and fit varies from collection to collection following general trends
  You can know how old is by the size of the labels and tags, the modern ones have smaller tags without the logo or "Gruppo Forall" and paper tags on the sleeve.
  jackets are full canvas, machine made
  trousers are full curtained.
  
• Abito Privato, silver label
  This is the MTM line, I'd say it has better fabrics that white label, same construction methods
  
• Sartoriale
  Higher quality and selection of fabrics and linings
  Machine made with hand detailing ( collar and sleeves attachment )
  lighter canvassing
  most but not all have canvas napolitanean shoulders.
  unfinished sleeves
  trousers have many tailored details as buttoned zips, buttoned cuffs, non continous waistband, braces buttons.

Now as to answer, how good they are.

White label that is the suit you are asking about are on the second tier, together with Canali, Corneliani, maybe Zegna sartoria and Baldessarini.

Suits retail for around $1300, again same price point as the second tier, fully canvased Italian suits.

Now, about fit and cut. It is a matter of taste. I personally consider them good, I like Canali a bit more, and I like them better than Corneliani.

They fit me right, have nicer buttons and selection of fabrics than the other 2 and I can get them cheaper.

Many people here praise Isaia suits for example, but many of my Zileris are nicer that many Isaias I have seen.

They can be had here in the forum and on ebay very reduced from between $300-$600 depending on the desirability of the item, and I think this is an excellent price range for a good quality, machine made, fully canvased suit.


I'd not pay $800 myself.

Hope this helps.

That certainly helps, lakewolf! I'm leaning towards purchasing this suit, but I think I'll make a lower offer for it as the price seems to be just above where many think it should be.