1. And... we're back. You'll notice that all of your images are back as well, as are our beloved emoticons, including the infamous :foo: We have also worked with our server folks and developers to fix the issues that were slowing down the site.

    There is still work to be done - the images in existing sigs are not yet linked, for example, and we are working on a way to get the images to load faster - which will improve the performance of the site, especially on the pages with a ton of images, and we will continue to work diligently on that and keep you updated.

    Cheers,

    Fok on behalf of the entire Styleforum team
    Dismiss Notice

Pal Zileri suits - among the great Italian suitmakers or a mere second-fiddle?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Ricardo Malocchio, Apr 15, 2008.

  1. Ricardo Malocchio

    Ricardo Malocchio Senior member

    Messages:
    259
    Joined:
    Sep 13, 2007
    I'm considering purchasing a PZ suit, but have very little knowledge of the brand and have never so much as tried on one of their items. I'm partial to Borrelli and Isaia, but certainly would like a bit more variety in my closet. You know... so long as the quality is comparable.

    I've searched the forum and found that a number of PZ items were sold here over the years, but very little discussion about the brand generally. When mentioned - and usually in the context of other Italian suitmakers - PZ is given rather short-shrift. No real criticisms that I've found, but neither much passion for the brand. PZ seems... an afterthought at best.

    So, I'd love to read your impressions about PZ in general, whether there are any particular diffusion lines to avoid, and also about this suit in particular:

    [​IMG]

    As always, my best regards to all of you.
     
  2. EL72

    EL72 Senior member

    Messages:
    6,860
    Joined:
    May 11, 2006
    Location:
    Toronto
    I really like Pal Zileri and have many items including sportcoats, pants, lots of ties [​IMG]. They are probably considered a notch below Borrelli and Isaia in the Italian suit hierarchy alongside Canali and Zegna. The diffusion line is called Pull (by Pal Zileri) and the mainline white label Pal Zileri coats are all fully canvassed. The higher end line is Sartoriale and features more handwork and nicer fabrics at double the price.

    Just like most brands, they have some very nice classic stuff and some really out-ther stuff that I'd never wear. The one pictured with the paper sleeve tag is a recent white label suit that tend to be more fitted (older models have the cloth label). It looks quite nice - go for it!
     
  3. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    16,118
    Joined:
    Apr 21, 2005
    Location:
    Tombstone
    I have only one piece from PZ, a recent white-label sportcoat. In terms of construction, I'd rank it along Corneliani and Canali, so it's "second-tier" by many posters' standards. However, I don't like it nearly as well as I do my Corneliani stuff. Mostly because it fits me a bit awkwardly, but overall, I find the gorge too high and the styling slightly off. When I catch a glimpse of it, I always think it looks a little like the coat's sliding off my back.

    The suit you pictured looks nice on the dummy, but the angle of the photo makes it tricky to gauge the gorge. It looks, though, like it's sitting very high on the shoulder, in which case I, personally, wouldn't care for it. I also suspect the extremely high gorge will look dated pretty soon, but that's less specific to PZ than to the trend in general.

    YMMV, of course.
     
  4. Ricardo Malocchio

    Ricardo Malocchio Senior member

    Messages:
    259
    Joined:
    Sep 13, 2007
    A quick question about terminology - when you speak of the "high gorge", are you referring to the high placement of the lapel notches?

    If so, that's certainly a characteristic of the Borrelli and Isaia suits I have, and one that I find flatters my build. I certainly hope this doesn't look extremely dated soon - it's one of the characteristics that draws me to this suit!

    So, this is a "mainline white label" PZ, probably the second rung for the brand? Fully canvassed?

    Would you consider it overpriced at $800?
     
  5. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    16,118
    Joined:
    Apr 21, 2005
    Location:
    Tombstone
    A quick question about terminology - when you speak of the "high gorge", are you referring to the high placement of the lapel notches?

    Yes, that's what I mean. And you're in good company liking the high gorge. It's certainly the style, and I'm definitely in the minority in thinking it looks off. But I tend to think any extreme -- either high or low -- is going to date. Many gorges I see these day couldn't get any higher without disappearing behind the neck. The only direction for them to go is back down.
     
  6. chorse123

    chorse123 Senior member

    Messages:
    10,448
    Joined:
    Nov 5, 2004
    I would probably put Zegna above Zileri, if only for the hideous tuxedos that Zileri sometimes makes. I don't think Pal Zileri "white label" is worth $800. I would probably spend at most around $400-$500 for the suits, but I've found fit and shape inconsistent.

    Pal Zileri Sartoriale is fantastic, but can be hard to find.
     
  7. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    16,118
    Joined:
    Apr 21, 2005
    Location:
    Tombstone
    I don't think Pal Zileri "white label" is worth $800. I would probably spend at most around $400-$500 for the suits, but I've found fit and shape inconsistent.

    Yeah, I would cap out well below $800 for white label PZ. Even if I found a cut that fit me better, I wouldn't pay more than $500 or so for a patterned PZ suit. There's just too much selection at that price point.
     
  8. marc237

    marc237 Senior member

    Messages:
    2,381
    Joined:
    Apr 4, 2004
    Zileri works nicely for my body type. Zileri's canvassing seems to also be on the lighter side, which I like. However, some of the fabric choices can be odd.

    On a side note, Zileri tends to fly under the radar on the 'bay. Good values can be found.
     
  9. SuitingStyle

    SuitingStyle Senior member

    Messages:
    1,408
    Joined:
    Apr 24, 2006
    paging Lakewolf.........
     
  10. EL72

    EL72 Senior member

    Messages:
    6,860
    Joined:
    May 11, 2006
    Location:
    Toronto
    So, this is a "mainline white label" PZ, probably the second rung for the brand? Fully canvassed?

    Yes, mainline and fully canvassed.

    Would you consider it overpriced at $800?

    Retail on these suits is $1,500-$2,200 depending on fabric (Sartoriale run $3,500-$5,000). Whether it's overpriced at $800 is something only you can answer. I probably wouldn't spend that money on a suit I did not try on and touch but it's a pretty classic and conservative pattern and if it fit me perfectly and I really needed a gray windowpane suit, you could do worse.
     
  11. Holdfast

    Holdfast Senior member

    Messages:
    10,562
    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2006
    I tried on some Pal Zileri items once in Harvey Nicks. The sales person said they only come in a Regular. So I moved on quickly... [​IMG]

    They seem decent enough suits, but I wasn't particularly wowed.
     
  12. Ricardo Malocchio

    Ricardo Malocchio Senior member

    Messages:
    259
    Joined:
    Sep 13, 2007
    I love charcoal gray, and I don't have one in this particular shade nor in a window-pane pattern. In short, there's a lot for me to like about this suit - with the exception of my unfamiliarity with Pal Zileri and inability to try on before buying!

    The fit is right on the money, but I can't really speak to the quality of the fabric. The seller claims its super 100s wool. Among the pictures he sent, I think this one best reveals the fabric:

    [​IMG]
     
  13. GusW

    GusW Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    19,129
    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2007
    ^^^Your pic looks very nice.
     
  14. spectre

    spectre Senior member

    Messages:
    1,025
    Joined:
    Dec 2, 2006
    Location:
    Melbourne, Australia
    I have a couple of jackets and suits and like them a lot. I'm not sure why $800 - a third of retail or so - is considered too expensive.
     
  15. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    16,118
    Joined:
    Apr 21, 2005
    Location:
    Tombstone
    I have a couple of jackets and suits and like them a lot. I'm not sure why $800 - a third of retail or so - is considered too expensive.

    It's not, really, outside the world of SF bargain hunting. But equivalent quality, fully canvassed suits can be had for significantly less. Patterned Corneliani, for example, aren't that hard to come by at $400-$500; I paid significantly less for my solid navy mainline Zegna than the OP is considering paying for a windowpane PZ. It's a question of whether the OP really loves this garment in particular, at which point it's not so outrageous, or just wants a good-quality suit.
     
  16. HappymaN

    HappymaN Senior member

    Messages:
    110
    Joined:
    Mar 14, 2006
    I was in Rome recently, and found myself at the PZ Outlet store. I picked up two pairs of wool FF trousers, which are now my favourite, for about 120E a pair. I didn't buy a suit on the day, but from what I remember, they were going for about 800E. The discounts were apparently 40% from retail. This is all mainline white label stuff BTW.
     
  17. robasaurus

    robasaurus Senior member

    Messages:
    201
    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2008
    Location:
    Canada
    I actually have a swatch of that fabric, and I can say, having seen and felt it, that it is quite nice. As far as PZ suits go, I would have to disagree with everyone here saying that they aren't worth $800. I would consider that a steal based on all of the PZ garments I've seen and worn. I just ordered a PZ MTM suit in black and white houndstooth which will cost me a little bit more than that (I'm getting a serious discount on it) and I'm more than happy with what I feel is an excellent deal.

    If you want a reference point, I would say that Canali is a pretty good comparison in terms of construction, fabric, and overall quality for the price. I'll take PZ any day of the week over Canali simply because I prefer the fit over most Canali's offerings (though their 15000 body is sublime, I never see many of them around).

    Also, I happen to love PZ's more "odd" fabrics. A co-worker of mine has a gorgeous PZ MTM two-button suit in chocolate brown with sort of a magenta-ish windowpane. I've never seen anything like it, and it's honestly my favourite suit that I've ever seen anyone wear.
     
  18. Fishball

    Fishball Senior member

    Messages:
    1,731
    Joined:
    Jul 9, 2007
    Location:
    Hong Kong
    Many Zileri suit are not made in Italy any more, at lease in their HK store. Also if you buy it on sale here, IIRC, it should be cheaper than USD$800.
    I have few suits and pants from Pal Zileri, the quality was good. So, if the fit and price is right, go for it.
     
  19. robasaurus

    robasaurus Senior member

    Messages:
    201
    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2008
    Location:
    Canada
    Many Zileri suit are not made in Italy any more, at lease in their HK store. Also if you buy it on sale here, IIRC, it should be cheaper than USD$800.
    I have few suits and pants from Pal Zileri, the quality was good. So, if the fit and price is right, go for it.


    I have yet to see a PZ suit not made in Italy. Is it possible that you have been looking at their diffusion line which an earlier poster had mentioned?
     
  20. Chris "Italia"

    Chris "Italia" Senior member

    Messages:
    516
    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2006
    Location:
    NJ
    Sartoriale line is right on par Brioni. Better than Borrelli and Zegna Napoli.

    A notch below Kiton.
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by