Pal Zileri suits - among the great Italian suitmakers or a mere second-fiddle?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Ricardo Malocchio, Apr 15, 2008.

  1. Ricardo Malocchio

    Ricardo Malocchio Senior member

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    I'm considering purchasing a PZ suit, but have very little knowledge of the brand and have never so much as tried on one of their items. I'm partial to Borrelli and Isaia, but certainly would like a bit more variety in my closet. You know... so long as the quality is comparable.

    I've searched the forum and found that a number of PZ items were sold here over the years, but very little discussion about the brand generally. When mentioned - and usually in the context of other Italian suitmakers - PZ is given rather short-shrift. No real criticisms that I've found, but neither much passion for the brand. PZ seems... an afterthought at best.

    So, I'd love to read your impressions about PZ in general, whether there are any particular diffusion lines to avoid, and also about this suit in particular:

    [​IMG]

    As always, my best regards to all of you.
     


  2. EL72

    EL72 Senior member

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    I really like Pal Zileri and have many items including sportcoats, pants, lots of ties [​IMG]. They are probably considered a notch below Borrelli and Isaia in the Italian suit hierarchy alongside Canali and Zegna. The diffusion line is called Pull (by Pal Zileri) and the mainline white label Pal Zileri coats are all fully canvassed. The higher end line is Sartoriale and features more handwork and nicer fabrics at double the price.

    Just like most brands, they have some very nice classic stuff and some really out-ther stuff that I'd never wear. The one pictured with the paper sleeve tag is a recent white label suit that tend to be more fitted (older models have the cloth label). It looks quite nice - go for it!
     


  3. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I have only one piece from PZ, a recent white-label sportcoat. In terms of construction, I'd rank it along Corneliani and Canali, so it's "second-tier" by many posters' standards. However, I don't like it nearly as well as I do my Corneliani stuff. Mostly because it fits me a bit awkwardly, but overall, I find the gorge too high and the styling slightly off. When I catch a glimpse of it, I always think it looks a little like the coat's sliding off my back.

    The suit you pictured looks nice on the dummy, but the angle of the photo makes it tricky to gauge the gorge. It looks, though, like it's sitting very high on the shoulder, in which case I, personally, wouldn't care for it. I also suspect the extremely high gorge will look dated pretty soon, but that's less specific to PZ than to the trend in general.

    YMMV, of course.
     


  4. Ricardo Malocchio

    Ricardo Malocchio Senior member

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    A quick question about terminology - when you speak of the "high gorge", are you referring to the high placement of the lapel notches?

    If so, that's certainly a characteristic of the Borrelli and Isaia suits I have, and one that I find flatters my build. I certainly hope this doesn't look extremely dated soon - it's one of the characteristics that draws me to this suit!

    So, this is a "mainline white label" PZ, probably the second rung for the brand? Fully canvassed?

    Would you consider it overpriced at $800?
     


  5. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    A quick question about terminology - when you speak of the "high gorge", are you referring to the high placement of the lapel notches?

    Yes, that's what I mean. And you're in good company liking the high gorge. It's certainly the style, and I'm definitely in the minority in thinking it looks off. But I tend to think any extreme -- either high or low -- is going to date. Many gorges I see these day couldn't get any higher without disappearing behind the neck. The only direction for them to go is back down.
     


  6. chorse123

    chorse123 Senior member

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    I would probably put Zegna above Zileri, if only for the hideous tuxedos that Zileri sometimes makes. I don't think Pal Zileri "white label" is worth $800. I would probably spend at most around $400-$500 for the suits, but I've found fit and shape inconsistent.

    Pal Zileri Sartoriale is fantastic, but can be hard to find.
     


  7. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I don't think Pal Zileri "white label" is worth $800. I would probably spend at most around $400-$500 for the suits, but I've found fit and shape inconsistent.

    Yeah, I would cap out well below $800 for white label PZ. Even if I found a cut that fit me better, I wouldn't pay more than $500 or so for a patterned PZ suit. There's just too much selection at that price point.
     


  8. marc237

    marc237 Senior member

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    Zileri works nicely for my body type. Zileri's canvassing seems to also be on the lighter side, which I like. However, some of the fabric choices can be odd.

    On a side note, Zileri tends to fly under the radar on the 'bay. Good values can be found.
     


  9. SuitingStyle

    SuitingStyle Senior member

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    paging Lakewolf.........
     


  10. EL72

    EL72 Senior member

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    So, this is a "mainline white label" PZ, probably the second rung for the brand? Fully canvassed?

    Yes, mainline and fully canvassed.

    Would you consider it overpriced at $800?

    Retail on these suits is $1,500-$2,200 depending on fabric (Sartoriale run $3,500-$5,000). Whether it's overpriced at $800 is something only you can answer. I probably wouldn't spend that money on a suit I did not try on and touch but it's a pretty classic and conservative pattern and if it fit me perfectly and I really needed a gray windowpane suit, you could do worse.
     


  11. Holdfast

    Holdfast Senior member

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    I tried on some Pal Zileri items once in Harvey Nicks. The sales person said they only come in a Regular. So I moved on quickly... [​IMG]

    They seem decent enough suits, but I wasn't particularly wowed.
     


  12. Ricardo Malocchio

    Ricardo Malocchio Senior member

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    I love charcoal gray, and I don't have one in this particular shade nor in a window-pane pattern. In short, there's a lot for me to like about this suit - with the exception of my unfamiliarity with Pal Zileri and inability to try on before buying!

    The fit is right on the money, but I can't really speak to the quality of the fabric. The seller claims its super 100s wool. Among the pictures he sent, I think this one best reveals the fabric:

    [​IMG]
     


  13. GusW

    GusW Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    ^^^Your pic looks very nice.
     


  14. spectre

    spectre Senior member

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    I have a couple of jackets and suits and like them a lot. I'm not sure why $800 - a third of retail or so - is considered too expensive.
     


  15. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I have a couple of jackets and suits and like them a lot. I'm not sure why $800 - a third of retail or so - is considered too expensive.

    It's not, really, outside the world of SF bargain hunting. But equivalent quality, fully canvassed suits can be had for significantly less. Patterned Corneliani, for example, aren't that hard to come by at $400-$500; I paid significantly less for my solid navy mainline Zegna than the OP is considering paying for a windowpane PZ. It's a question of whether the OP really loves this garment in particular, at which point it's not so outrageous, or just wants a good-quality suit.
     


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