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What are your opinions on Pal Zileri suits?

PJShepp

New Member
Joined
Aug 20, 2023
Messages
4
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Can someone tell me about this label? Which line is it and what quality?
Pal Zileri.jpg
 

doro89

Member
Joined
Jul 7, 2023
Messages
13
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Not impressed with the quality of button holes for a $2500 suit.

Returned

IMG08495.jpg
 

Seaminglyso

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 24, 2019
Messages
61
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50
Zileri's mainline features decent construction and generally excellent fabrics. They have on of the worst marketing to quality ratios in the business. Their marketing makes them look like H&M but their quality is like Caruso. The sartoriale line is a step above, but it is no way close to Brioni or Castangia in finish and construction. Sartoriale gives you some nice touches (you can find cocktail cuffs, a very nice italianized version of Hollywood waistbands that I routinely use with my custom pants), surgeon cuffs and softer shoulders. Sartoriale was never billed as a totally different construction line. If you want an imperfect analogy, Castangia main line is fantastic and Sartoriale Castangia is "fanstasticier". The step between them is similar to mainline and sartoriale PZ. Mainline is good, and sartorliale is gooder.

PZ has at times also had a line called "lab" and that is pretty bad, on the same level of construction as you'd get from Macy's, but with more interesting fabrics. PZ used this line to experiment with man made materials, mixes, and technical wools. (At times they've also had cooncept (more casual/country) sport (much more casual) and ceremonia (formal and "weird formal"). Their abito privato line is not on the same par as sartoriale.

One fun thing about PZ's marketing is that they change labels every few years. The picture above from @PJShepp is from two iterations ago (about 2019). Before that mainline was a white label that was a narrow rectangle, before that a less narrow rectangle, and after the blue and white line label was black with a number describing one of the many steps in the garment's productions.

Sartoriale was also broken up around the same era as the blue and white stripe label into blue label (formal suits) and green label (casual blazers and suits that were styled to be similar to Cuccineli (think eleventy platinum but better construucted).

I have been wearing PZ suits for about a decade and a half now, and this is how I found they compare to others that I also frequently wear, in decending order of specialness:

Castangia - Sartoriale is top of the line construction, everything done beautifully and gorgeous fabrics. Mainline is also fantastic, just less so than sartoriale. Beware of ebay mainline, as some are very stiff or have weird cuts or seem like prototypes or samples that do not have the same level of finishing.

Old D'Avenza top of the line - these aren't really around so not going to wax poetic on them, but I have a few from Venanzi that are insane.

Brioni - top line, deserves the hype, not the price tag. I like Castangia better, but Brioni suits are legitimately some of the most comfortable garments. Love it or hate it, they are what they are; supremely comfortable, very nicely made, gorgeous fabrics.

Scuderi - not well known, but they make for many other houses. Their mainline is gorgeously finished with the most underrated shoulder in the entire industry. Superb construction, and attention to detail, lots of "sole" the only knock is the limited fabrics. But what they have are very nice. Also a very comfortable suit.

Partenopea (RIP) - very excellent attention to detail and styling. very equal to Scuderi, and maybe even above them. Excellent fabrics too.

Ravazolo - also not so well known but available. Very nice attention to detail and finishing, I find them similar to belvest, although others may legitimately disagree on this one.

Belvest mainline - Great construction. Decent fabrics. decent sole. Not much to say about them although I wear them a lot.

Isaia - great fabrics and construction. On par with the prior two.

PZ Sarotoriale - described above, they are pretty equal to Scuderi. Not as good construction, but their fabrics and styling touches bring them to tier 1.

Caruso (the bettter stuff, there is a huge range) - I find the good caruso's to be really nice. some are better than PZ sartoriale and some are right below.

Tier 1.b

Samuelsohn (and Paul Stuart) - older PS were better than mainline Samuelsohn in terms of fabrics and feel. construuction seemed to be the same. Samuellsohn has upped their game and their stuff is really nice. Very precise finishing, very nice fits, very comfortable, very wearable, very day to day without the soul of a castangia or the panache of a Brioni. Still really nice.

PZ mainline - still really good. Described above.

Caruso (the regullar stuff) - on par with PZ mainline

Corneliani, Canali, some new Isaia that seems to be slipping.

Tier 3

SuSu Jort (la spalla)
Spier and Mackay
SuSu

Tier 6

Indochino (bought on a lark more out of curiosity than anything.
 

PJShepp

New Member
Joined
Aug 20, 2023
Messages
4
Reaction score
2
Zileri's mainline features decent construction and generally excellent fabrics. They have on of the worst marketing to quality ratios in the business. Their marketing makes them look like H&M but their quality is like Caruso. The sartoriale line is a step above, but it is no way close to Brioni or Castangia in finish and construction. Sartoriale gives you some nice touches (you can find cocktail cuffs, a very nice italianized version of Hollywood waistbands that I routinely use with my custom pants), surgeon cuffs and softer shoulders. Sartoriale was never billed as a totally different construction line. If you want an imperfect analogy, Castangia main line is fantastic and Sartoriale Castangia is "fanstasticier". The step between them is similar to mainline and sartoriale PZ. Mainline is good, and sartorliale is gooder.

PZ has at times also had a line called "lab" and that is pretty bad, on the same level of construction as you'd get from Macy's, but with more interesting fabrics. PZ used this line to experiment with man made materials, mixes, and technical wools. (At times they've also had cooncept (more casual/country) sport (much more casual) and ceremonia (formal and "weird formal"). Their abito privato line is not on the same par as sartoriale.

One fun thing about PZ's marketing is that they change labels every few years. The picture above from @PJShepp is from two iterations ago (about 2019). Before that mainline was a white label that was a narrow rectangle, before that a less narrow rectangle, and after the blue and white line label was black with a number describing one of the many steps in the garment's productions.

Sartoriale was also broken up around the same era as the blue and white stripe label into blue label (formal suits) and green label (casual blazers and suits that were styled to be similar to Cuccineli (think eleventy platinum but better construucted).

I have been wearing PZ suits for about a decade and a half now, and this is how I found they compare to others that I also frequently wear, in decending order of specialness:

Castangia - Sartoriale is top of the line construction, everything done beautifully and gorgeous fabrics. Mainline is also fantastic, just less so than sartoriale. Beware of ebay mainline, as some are very stiff or have weird cuts or seem like prototypes or samples that do not have the same level of finishing.

Old D'Avenza top of the line - these aren't really around so not going to wax poetic on them, but I have a few from Venanzi that are insane.

Brioni - top line, deserves the hype, not the price tag. I like Castangia better, but Brioni suits are legitimately some of the most comfortable garments. Love it or hate it, they are what they are; supremely comfortable, very nicely made, gorgeous fabrics.

Scuderi - not well known, but they make for many other houses. Their mainline is gorgeously finished with the most underrated shoulder in the entire industry. Superb construction, and attention to detail, lots of "sole" the only knock is the limited fabrics. But what they have are very nice. Also a very comfortable suit.

Partenopea (RIP) - very excellent attention to detail and styling. very equal to Scuderi, and maybe even above them. Excellent fabrics too.

Ravazolo - also not so well known but available. Very nice attention to detail and finishing, I find them similar to belvest, although others may legitimately disagree on this one.

Belvest mainline - Great construction. Decent fabrics. decent sole. Not much to say about them although I wear them a lot.

Isaia - great fabrics and construction. On par with the prior two.

PZ Sarotoriale - described above, they are pretty equal to Scuderi. Not as good construction, but their fabrics and styling touches bring them to tier 1.

Caruso (the bettter stuff, there is a huge range) - I find the good caruso's to be really nice. some are better than PZ sartoriale and some are right below.

Tier 1.b

Samuelsohn (and Paul Stuart) - older PS were better than mainline Samuelsohn in terms of fabrics and feel. construuction seemed to be the same. Samuellsohn has upped their game and their stuff is really nice. Very precise finishing, very nice fits, very comfortable, very wearable, very day to day without the soul of a castangia or the panache of a Brioni. Still really nice.

PZ mainline - still really good. Described above.

Caruso (the regullar stuff) - on par with PZ mainline

Corneliani, Canali, some new Isaia that seems to be slipping.

Tier 3

SuSu Jort (la spalla)
Spier and Mackay
SuSu

Tier 6

Indochino (bought on a lark more out of curiosity than anything.
 

PJShepp

New Member
Joined
Aug 20, 2023
Messages
4
Reaction score
2
Zileri's mainline features decent construction and generally excellent fabrics. They have on of the worst marketing to quality ratios in the business. Their marketing makes them look like H&M but their quality is like Caruso. The sartoriale line is a step above, but it is no way close to Brioni or Castangia in finish and construction. Sartoriale gives you some nice touches (you can find cocktail cuffs, a very nice italianized version of Hollywood waistbands that I routinely use with my custom pants), surgeon cuffs and softer shoulders. Sartoriale was never billed as a totally different construction line. If you want an imperfect analogy, Castangia main line is fantastic and Sartoriale Castangia is "fanstasticier". The step between them is similar to mainline and sartoriale PZ. Mainline is good, and sartorliale is gooder.

PZ has at times also had a line called "lab" and that is pretty bad, on the same level of construction as you'd get from Macy's, but with more interesting fabrics. PZ used this line to experiment with man made materials, mixes, and technical wools. (At times they've also had cooncept (more casual/country) sport (much more casual) and ceremonia (formal and "weird formal"). Their abito privato line is not on the same par as sartoriale.

One fun thing about PZ's marketing is that they change labels every few years. The picture above from @PJShepp is from two iterations ago (about 2019). Before that mainline was a white label that was a narrow rectangle, before that a less narrow rectangle, and after the blue and white line label was black with a number describing one of the many steps in the garment's productions.

Sartoriale was also broken up around the same era as the blue and white stripe label into blue label (formal suits) and green label (casual blazers and suits that were styled to be similar to Cuccineli (think eleventy platinum but better construucted).

I have been wearing PZ suits for about a decade and a half now, and this is how I found they compare to others that I also frequently wear, in decending order of specialness:

Castangia - Sartoriale is top of the line construction, everything done beautifully and gorgeous fabrics. Mainline is also fantastic, just less so than sartoriale. Beware of ebay mainline, as some are very stiff or have weird cuts or seem like prototypes or samples that do not have the same level of finishing.

Old D'Avenza top of the line - these aren't really around so not going to wax poetic on them, but I have a few from Venanzi that are insane.

Brioni - top line, deserves the hype, not the price tag. I like Castangia better, but Brioni suits are legitimately some of the most comfortable garments. Love it or hate it, they are what they are; supremely comfortable, very nicely made, gorgeous fabrics.

Scuderi - not well known, but they make for many other houses. Their mainline is gorgeously finished with the most underrated shoulder in the entire industry. Superb construction, and attention to detail, lots of "sole" the only knock is the limited fabrics. But what they have are very nice. Also a very comfortable suit.

Partenopea (RIP) - very excellent attention to detail and styling. very equal to Scuderi, and maybe even above them. Excellent fabrics too.

Ravazolo - also not so well known but available. Very nice attention to detail and finishing, I find them similar to belvest, although others may legitimately disagree on this one.

Belvest mainline - Great construction. Decent fabrics. decent sole. Not much to say about them although I wear them a lot.

Isaia - great fabrics and construction. On par with the prior two.

PZ Sarotoriale - described above, they are pretty equal to Scuderi. Not as good construction, but their fabrics and styling touches bring them to tier 1.

Caruso (the bettter stuff, there is a huge range) - I find the good caruso's to be really nice. some are better than PZ sartoriale and some are right below.

Tier 1.b

Samuelsohn (and Paul Stuart) - older PS were better than mainline Samuelsohn in terms of fabrics and feel. construuction seemed to be the same. Samuellsohn has upped their game and their stuff is really nice. Very precise finishing, very nice fits, very comfortable, very wearable, very day to day without the soul of a castangia or the panache of a Brioni. Still really nice.

PZ mainline - still really good. Described above.

Caruso (the regullar stuff) - on par with PZ mainline

Corneliani, Canali, some new Isaia that seems to be slipping.

Tier 3

SuSu Jort (la spalla)
Spier and Mackay
SuSu

Tier 6

Indochino (bought on a lark more out of curiosity than anything.
Zileri's mainline features decent construction and generally excellent fabrics. They have on of the worst marketing to quality ratios in the business. Their marketing makes them look like H&M but their quality is like Caruso. The sartoriale line is a step above, but it is no way close to Brioni or Castangia in finish and construction. Sartoriale gives you some nice touches (you can find cocktail cuffs, a very nice italianized version of Hollywood waistbands that I routinely use with my custom pants), surgeon cuffs and softer shoulders. Sartoriale was never billed as a totally different construction line. If you want an imperfect analogy, Castangia main line is fantastic and Sartoriale Castangia is "fanstasticier". The step between them is similar to mainline and sartoriale PZ. Mainline is good, and sartorliale is gooder.

PZ has at times also had a line called "lab" and that is pretty bad, on the same level of construction as you'd get from Macy's, but with more interesting fabrics. PZ used this line to experiment with man made materials, mixes, and technical wools. (At times they've also had cooncept (more casual/country) sport (much more casual) and ceremonia (formal and "weird formal"). Their abito privato line is not on the same par as sartoriale.

One fun thing about PZ's marketing is that they change labels every few years. The picture above from @PJShepp is from two iterations ago (about 2019). Before that mainline was a white label that was a narrow rectangle, before that a less narrow rectangle, and after the blue and white line label was black with a number describing one of the many steps in the garment's productions.

Sartoriale was also broken up around the same era as the blue and white stripe label into blue label (formal suits) and green label (casual blazers and suits that were styled to be similar to Cuccineli (think eleventy platinum but better construucted).

I have been wearing PZ suits for about a decade and a half now, and this is how I found they compare to others that I also frequently wear, in decending order of specialness:

Castangia - Sartoriale is top of the line construction, everything done beautifully and gorgeous fabrics. Mainline is also fantastic, just less so than sartoriale. Beware of ebay mainline, as some are very stiff or have weird cuts or seem like prototypes or samples that do not have the same level of finishing.

Old D'Avenza top of the line - these aren't really around so not going to wax poetic on them, but I have a few from Venanzi that are insane.

Brioni - top line, deserves the hype, not the price tag. I like Castangia better, but Brioni suits are legitimately some of the most comfortable garments. Love it or hate it, they are what they are; supremely comfortable, very nicely made, gorgeous fabrics.

Scuderi - not well known, but they make for many other houses. Their mainline is gorgeously finished with the most underrated shoulder in the entire industry. Superb construction, and attention to detail, lots of "sole" the only knock is the limited fabrics. But what they have are very nice. Also a very comfortable suit.

Partenopea (RIP) - very excellent attention to detail and styling. very equal to Scuderi, and maybe even above them. Excellent fabrics too.

Ravazolo - also not so well known but available. Very nice attention to detail and finishing, I find them similar to belvest, although others may legitimately disagree on this one.

Belvest mainline - Great construction. Decent fabrics. decent sole. Not much to say about them although I wear them a lot.

Isaia - great fabrics and construction. On par with the prior two.

PZ Sarotoriale - described above, they are pretty equal to Scuderi. Not as good construction, but their fabrics and styling touches bring them to tier 1.

Caruso (the bettter stuff, there is a huge range) - I find the good caruso's to be really nice. some are better than PZ sartoriale and some are right below.

Tier 1.b

Samuelsohn (and Paul Stuart) - older PS were better than mainline Samuelsohn in terms of fabrics and feel. construuction seemed to be the same. Samuellsohn has upped their game and their stuff is really nice. Very precise finishing, very nice fits, very comfortable, very wearable, very day to day without the soul of a castangia or the panache of a Brioni. Still really nice.

PZ mainline - still really good. Described above.

Caruso (the regullar stuff) - on par with PZ mainline

Corneliani, Canali, some new Isaia that seems to be slipping.

Tier 3

SuSu Jort (la spalla)
Spier and Mackay
SuSu

Tier 6

Indochino (bought on a lark more out of curiosity than anything.
Wow! A lot of info here! Unfortunately the suit I bought off Craigslist turned out to be really gross...stained armpits with holes in the lining, the crotch pretty much threadbare. Good thing I only paid $20 for it. Anyway, thanks, Seeminglyso. At least we all know now about everything Zileri!
 

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