Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

[Prada_Ferragamo]

Just got this off the by for cheap. I believe it's AW2000

 

[StevenE]

I like it. Anyone grab anything from those nippon-couture YYPH/CDG ebay bids that ended yesterday?

 

[Parker]

Has anyone read the Pour Homme concept statement on Yohji's site?

I get the general idea from the Japanglish google translation, but wondered if the actual tone or meaning is different in the original Japanese. I can definitely get behind some "free-spirited comical drifting."

 

[asakawa]

"Yamamoto’s ideal image of masculinity; men with independent spirits, outside any social constraints, and you can’t tell what they are doing in their lives. Of course dandy, but at the same time they have unique atmosphere, somehow comical."

tried my best to translate the iapanese text. indeed, "free-spirited comical drifting." is not so bad...

 

[Prada_Ferragamo]

This might be a noob question, but can someone compare Costum d' Homme to YYPH in terms of quality, cut, and fit? I have YYPH pieces and Y's, but never owned any costum d'homme.

FWIW, I have found Yohji to be very well made compared to some other designers.

 

[Parker]

tried my best to translate the iapanese text.

thank you, sir! that helps a lot. I love the line "you can’t tell what they are doing in their lives" ~ heheheh.

welcome to the thread.

 

[StevenE]

This might be a noob question, but can someone compare Costum d' Homme to YYPH in terms of quality, cut, and fit? I have YYPH pieces and Y's, but never owned any costum d'homme.

FWIW, I have found Yohji to be very well made compared to some other designers.

I don't think there is much of a difference in terms of basic quality, at least not in the newer Cod'H pieces - it's certainly not noticeably cheaper.

On a very general level Cod'H is maybe a little simpler and business-like in terms of design in my experience - Conduit St's selections often have Yohji's take on a pinstripe suit and the like, things you might just get away with in a corporate environment if you're careful with sizing. When you do get louder design elements it tends to be hidden, like, say, a golden floral pattern in the lining of a coat. For items like shirts - the Yohji-ness - at least in the Cod'H I own, tends to be pronounced in the choice of unusual or blended fabrics, used to elevate an otherwise pretty standard shirt design.

 

[TroubIe]

Last year I came across this backstage photo of CdG staff in runway staff exclusive uniforms during the SS87 show, and became obsessed with finding one like it:



After many hours of Google searching I found around 5-6 coats from different seasons in the 80s, but then learned that Yohji had also produced these types of coats in the past:







Whenever I saw photos of Yohji's team at work during a fitting or before a runway presentation, I always thought that it was incredibly beautiful to see such like minded people producing such amazing clothing together. To have one of these coats would be very special, knowing the history behind it.

I did some searching but this was the only thing I could find. A few pages ago someone posted the short film "Mono No Aware", an interview with Irene Silvagni by the people at Byronesque who approached her to purchase some pieces from her personal collection. This is one of them:



On exhibit @ Byronesque's 20/20 event last year:









Really cool, I'm not for visible branding / logos but in this case I think it's very special.

 

[Parker]

donegal tweed cap
Ys cotton suit
post-imperial hankie
mtm shirt
george cox creepers

"of course dandy, but at the same time they have unique atmosphere, somehow comical."

 

[the shah]

So good, but the shadow is even better

 

[surver]

i remember seeing one of these coats at Old Lyric, Shanghai a couple weeks ago for those interested

http://www.oldlyric.com/

 

[TroubIe]

I couldn't find any photos of the coat on their website, do you remember which season it was labeled as? I'm curious which seasons he produced these coats for.

Also does anyone know anything about Oly Lyric? I've been following them for a few months now and they have an amazing archive of pieces, wondering where they get it / what they are exactly - a vintage boutique? a showroom? exhibition space? both?

 

[surver]



I couldn't find any photos of the coat on their website, do you remember which season it was labeled as? I'm curious which seasons he produced these coats for.

Also does anyone know anything about Oly Lyric? I've been following them for a few months now and they have an amazing archive of pieces, wondering where they get it / what they are exactly - a vintage boutique? a showroom? exhibition space? both?

it's a shop specializing in vintage pieces, many of them museum-grade, of mostly japanese 'masters' in shanghai; it's a very unique place in and of its own, opened by a friend of mine. beautiful pieces, updated regularly, and pieces don't last very long in there ;P

 

[surver]

 

[TroubIe]

Sounds very interesting, really wonder where they find all these super rare pieces.