Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit (Yohji Yamamoto Thread)

[Ivwri]



Great page is great page

+1

Parker the Napoleon jacket looks great on you. Can it be unbuttoned and the lapels buttoned on the opposite sides? I saw a look on the runway with the silk iteration of the blazer and it looked like the model had it buttoned across in the middle. The look is good, and the hat goes very well with it. Would really like to see it with your cover pants as well.

Davidlee the size 3 of that jacket looks very nice on you I think and it works well in both fits that you posted. Would be great it you could find the pants, I will definitely keep an eye out for them and let you know if I spot em (in a 3 or a 2)

Here's me this morning. Finally made out time to go get a shave .

Spoiler: Slightly better lighting

Wearing SS12 stand collar jacket (be prepared to see this a lot as it's the only jacket I traveled with hehe), AW11 shirt - this is made from a very nice cotton that feels quite fluffy to the touch. Another thing I like about it is that it really has that old but new feel in that, because the cotton is particularly soft it already feels like it has been through the washing process quite a few times. The top button is asymmetrical and when left undone has a way of hanging that I like. Pants are the same cropped ones i picked up not long ago from this SS12 collection. After really looking at the runway, I don't think they were shown on it. I initially thought it was a variation of one pair of pants shown, but now that I really look at them and the product code, I have reached the conclusion that they aren't. The pockets have this really unexpected, but cool off-white lining that I love seeing whenever I put my hand in them and I am wearing a black shirt or jacket for it to contrast against. I have also enjoyed wearing them with black socks as I like the continuous line of color. Shoes are Ann D creeper derbies from SS11. One of my favorite pairs of shoes.

I also thought I would share this as it has saved me a whole world of trouble when it comes to packing, especially since Yohji's pants tend to be quite voluminous -

Spoiler: Bundle Packing Illustrated

more info

 

[davidlee388]

Yes it is the same one. Wire Artist used to have the whole suit ( blazer, pants & cummerbund ) but sold it. He is the true master of finding great stuff and pulling them off. And also Asobu if I may add

Ivwri, yes please if you come across the pants, either sz 2/3 will do. However on the Runway Look 12 was the same suit in different colour so it's mighty difficult to know which is which in an auction.

 

[dantebykiko]

we need some fit photos from asobu!! i will recycle few old fit posts.

1st: yyph jacket no idea which season will post more details later on, yyph shirt with attached vest which use to be white but i dyed to this grey-ish color., y's cotton trousers (no rolls!) and cdg suede boots.

2nd: nn hat with yohji safety pin from v&a exhibition, yyph blazer, yyph cotton shirt, cdgh+ shorts+kilt, rick owens cashmere leggings and nike pocket runners.



also wanted to upload couple of scans that i did today from encens "back to japan" issue. the magazine it's full with vintage yohji/comme archive garments. it's definitely must have.




after posting so many women scan, i guess i can post two fit photos of my gf wearing yohji.

 

[pickpackpockpuck]

looks great, ivwri. it's interesting how easy it seems to incorporate Ann D. (and not just footwear) and Yohji in the same outfit. I imagine that goes for CdG too. all that drapey, voluminous softness...

dante, that shirt you bought from asobu looks great. wonderful cut and the fabric looks beautiful (looks gauzy and soft in the pics). your gf's clothes look great too. nice to see a few snaps of women in yohji.

(based on what I just wrote it seems "great" is my preferred adjective. where's my thesaurus...)

just a random thought, yohji ss2012 is one of my favorite collections that I've ever seen. the mix of shapes and colors and details makes it endlessly enjoyable to look at. it's nice to see that, even this late in his career, yohji can still do something really fresh and inventive and new.

 

[Ivwri]

Yeah I second more asobu pics and wireartists as well

kiko, I really like what you did with the Yohji pin. Need to figure out what to do with the ones I picked up as well. That encens mag has such beautiful images. Will keep an eye out for a copy as well.

The one on the right in particular here is just . Gonna steal that look when I get home.

I am still on the way to getting my wife to wear more Yohji (which is getting easier now that we are beginning to figure out what does and doesn't work for her frame) so I am quite jealous that your gf is rocking YY so well. I quite like the second pic, particularly because of the can of pepsi (?) looks cool.

Oh yeah asobu I forgot to say, the pants are these ones -

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

Man, I would kill for a DB blazer like that in some Summer weight fabric.

 

[Ivwri]



looks great, ivwri. it's interesting how easy it seems to incorporate Ann D. (and not just footwear) and Yohji in the same outfit. I imagine that goes for CdG too. all that drapey, voluminous softness...
dante, that shirt you bought from asobu looks great. wonderful cut and the fabric looks beautiful (looks gauzy and soft in the pics). your gf's clothes look great too. nice to see a few snaps of women in yohji.
(based on what I just wrote it seems "great" is my preferred adjective. where's my thesaurus...)
just a random thought, yohji ss2012 is one of my favorite collections that I've ever seen. the mix of shapes and colors and details makes it endlessly enjoyable to look at. it's nice to see that, even this late in his career, yohji can still do something really fresh and inventive and new.

Yeah, I think it definitely has a lot to do with drape, but there's also that asymmetry that shows up every now and then, interesting shirting and cropped pants that work really well with Yohji's jackets and pants. I really like Ann D basics like Tshirts, vests and some shirts so that's what I pick up primarily from her. I have dilly-dallied on every single piece of CdG I have wanted to pick up until they sold out in my size. There's something about Comme clothing that just doesn't connect enough with me to have me pick it up immediately, at least not at full price, and sometimes, even on sale I spend ages thinking about it. Sort of like it is too serious for me. Don't have any other way of putting it. Her pieces definitely work with Yohji though as kiko has shown quite a few times, hehe.

Oh, and glad you like the outfit.

 

[snowmanxl]



after posting so many women scan, i guess i can post two fit photos of my gf wearing yohji. 

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

did she paint that painting in the background of the second pic?

 

[davidlee388]

Yeah, I think it definitely has a lot to do with drape, but there's also that asymmetry that shows up every now and then, interesting shirting and cropped pants that work really well with Yohji's jackets and pants. I really like Ann D basics like Tshirts, vests and some shirts so that's what I pick up primarily from her. I have dilly-dallied on every single piece of CdG I have wanted to pick up until they sold out in my size. There's something about Comme clothing that just doesn't connect enough with me to have me pick it up immediately, at least not at full price, and sometimes, even on sale I spend ages thinking about it. Sort of like it is too serious for me. Don't have any other way of putting it. Her pieces definitely work with Yohji though as kiko has shown quite a few times, hehe.
Oh, and glad you like the outfit.

Don't know if everyone here agrees CDG clothes are getting smaller and smaller in recent years. I still have the CDG H+ overcoats, blazers and pants in size S I bought new from the 80s and there were as oversized as Yohji's back then. Nowadays her clothes ( at least to this wearer of her vintage stuff ) seem to be made for school boys and girls. I need sz L in order to button up most of the blazers and still suffer small armhole syndrome ( Plus by needing L for the chest, the arms are way too long for an ideal fit. In Hong Kong, a lot of her collection for men and women are available in size XS.....I wonder what kind of customers will fit into a XS CDG....

Also her collections for the past 3 or 4 years seem to sacrifice the quality of fabrics for the sake of styling, unlike Yohji Yamamoto whose philosophy is always fabrics, fabrics, fabrics first. As a Runway phenomenon, Rei Kawakubo is second to none for shock value and creativity. As a practical proposition, I have to go on a serious diet and lose 30 pounds first.

 

[Ivwri]

I can't speak about vintage Comme since I haven't handled any myself, but her recent stuff is definitely quite fitted from my own experience trying stuff on. She still seems to put out pretty loose fitting pants every season, although the waist on them could still be pretty small I think.

It's interesting with CdG. Whenever I look at her older collections there were a lot more similarities between her and Yohji in terms of the oversized cut and the use of fabrics like you say. I quite liked having the old trio of Issey, Rei and Yohji working and putting out clothes, looked like it would have been an awesome time to be into clothing of that particular style with loads of choice and all three of them at the height of their notoriety. They obviously came from the same place, but they each approached their creations from different angles. You could generally tell a Yohji piece apart from one Rei made.

She seems to have left most of that stuff behind in favor of trying out newer ideas that interest her now. It would be pretty interesting to compare people who started buying her stuff in the 80s with those who started later on and seeing how their respective wardrobes and outfits are put together.

 

[davidlee388]

My wife took this shot in a hotel elevator en route to dinner with a friend in London last weekend ( drooled all over SS12 at Conduit Street a few hours prior, incidentally its pre-sale starts today ) so no bottom half sorry guys. SS11 YYPH cotton black 5B notch lapel blazer with blue contrast panel I got new from Joyce Warehouse HK. Needed a size 3 to achieve the right silhouette for me ( a lot of SS11 is quite a slim cut ) , sleeves fit perfectly IMO. The buttonhole on lapel is totally functional to button over for a stand collar look ( should I say 6B then lol ). Half-lined in cupro, fully lined 2-button working sleeves, Very subtle detailing on the contrast panel without shouting " look at me ". Great summer blazer, worn with SS10 cotton pants with cuffed hems and Y-3 black Hajarklack Hi Top Sneakers.



Excuse me for the poor lighting, YYPH AW98 SB/DB Stitch Blazer in sz S. An awesome blazer ( Asobu will concur, he's owned it longer than I have ), that 999 wool fabric is unique and amazing and the sz S fit is just spot on ( I am very fond of the old school Yohji fit ), dropped shoulders, sleeves fit the Yohji way, the off white buttons and contrast stitching lift the jacket to another dimension. Worn here open with the inside strap buttoned, great fluid comfort. When buttoned over to the DB side, the bottom 2 buttons are elegantly concealed and revealed in motion. I told Asobu this is Hall Of Fame category lol. Pictured here with a basic Tee, YYPH SS09 cotton pants and Y's for men suede/canvas Hi-Top Sneakers.

 

[Ivwri]

Ah! davidlee it is you that got that jacket!!! I saw the listing on SZ and by the time I figured I would be able to pick it up, I saw it was gone. Wish you had a better picture, but from what I can see it looks really cool. I always wondered how it would have fit on someone who usually wears a size 4 though

 

[davidlee388]

I can't speak about vintage Comme since I haven't handled any myself, but her recent stuff is definitely quite fitted from my own experience trying stuff on. She still seems to put out pretty loose fitting pants every season, although the waist on them could still be pretty small I think.
It's interesting with CdG. Whenever I look at her older collections there were a lot more similarities between her and Yohji in terms of the oversized cut and the use of fabrics like you say. I quite liked having the old trio of Issey, Rei and Yohji working and putting out clothes, looked like it would have been an awesome time to be into clothing of that particular style with loads of choice and all three of them at the height of their notoriety. They obviously came from the same place, but they each approached their creations from different angles. You could generally tell a Yohji piece apart from one Rei made.
She seems to have left most of that stuff behind in favor of trying out newer ideas that interest her now. It would be pretty interesting to compare people who started buying her stuff in the 80s with those who started later on and seeing how their respective wardrobes and outfits are put together.

Yes Yohji Yamamoto, CDG and Issey Miyake were the " Big Three " from Japan in the 80s, in no particular order so not to offend any fans haha. I still have a killer double layer batwing hooded raincoat by Issey Miyake from the mid 80s given to me by my older brother. I still buy Miyake now and again. My wife is a big Pleats Please fan Also Issey's APOC ( a piece of cloth ) concept was boundary pushing back then.

 

[Ivwri]

By the way, did anyone, well those of you in LA, head over to Maxfield to check out their sale. They've gone to 60% off now and could still have some Yohji. Didn't get pics of their buy this season since I picked up most of what I wanted from Japan, but they usually get in some great stuff. I might still send an email down to see what they have left and post some pictures if they get back to me.

 

[davidlee388]

Ah! davidlee it is you that got that jacket!!! I saw the listing on SZ and by the time I figured I would be able to pick it up, I saw it was gone. Wish you had a better picture, but from what I can see it looks really cool. I always wondered how it would have fit on someone who usually wears a size 4 though

Haha, now you know I got it. Asobu needed to complete his DR YY suit, I am smitten by the mad detailing of that blazer so I snatched it off him at a bargain price IMO. He will tell you himself the sleeves are a tad too short for him. I will shoot it again in better light in due course; took that pic as soon as I received it late in the day to show him I have hopefully done that blazer justice

 

[davidlee388]

By the way, did anyone, well those of you in LA, head over to Maxfield to check out their sale. They've gone to 60% off now and could still have some Yohji. Didn't get pics of their buy this season since I picked up most of what I wanted from Japan, but they usually get in some great stuff. I might still send an email down to see what they have left and post some pictures if they get back to me.

No online browsing and purchase sadly, or have I missed something? It's a bit lacking in this day and age you can't purchase online.....